Clutch Alignment, a few questions:
 

i'm going to be replacing my rear main seals this weekend, as well as my friction plate. What is the story behind aligning the clutch?? I would think the 5 bolts would do this automatically. I've never worked on this or any clutch before so i really have no idea what "alignment" really refers to, i'm assuming its something about matching the splines for the input shaft or balancing everything, but not sure. can someone give me a basic explanation of "clutch alignment" and also, what can i use to perform this alignment besides the bmw tool?? thanks!

I'll take a stab at this for you. First, don't be offended as what I say shouldn't be taken personally. BUT.
If you have never done a clutch job on a single-plate dry automotive-type clutch, you are in for a steep learning curve.
Although this or any other mechanical device is just a collection of parts, the R1100S is difficult for the simple fact the entire rear half of the scoot has to come apart to do this. many have shadetreed this by tilting up the subframe, etc, ad nasuem, but I recommend complete disassembly both so you have easy access and to inspect the other components.
You will need a heat gun to kill the loctite on the paralever pivot bolts and I recommend an IR thermometer to know when theye're hot enough (appx 240 degrees F). driveshaft reassembly and phasing can be difficult. Use NEW pivot pins if there is ANY galling on the inner pin surface and plan on pivot bearings as they USUALLY are destroyed in the removal process.Once you get to the clutch, examine CLOSELY the surface of the flywheel; if you see any heat-discoloration patches, they can easily propagate into dangerous cracks; replace all the parts. I bought a clutch alignment tool but others have used broomsticks. use the xmission input shaft as a template. good luck as this is a major operation on any bmw oilhead. It gets simpler after you've done it once. air tools are nice, as is a lift. You will need to fab a cradle as the rear frame comes off and that contains the centerstand. If you'r used to a japanese motorcycle you'll feel like you are in the matrix as these beemer thingies are way different....

and as to the 'alignment' part, it's getting the clutch disc centered in the middle of the pressure plate so the xmission input shaft can slip into the center of the clutch disc with ease when the xmission is installed to the engine block. a little bit off here can cause lots of different problems. I'm anal, so I bought the BMW tool at $40.00USD, but others have used old input shafts, broomsticks diametered-down to fit, etc.

thanks jony,

i've got a pretty good idea of the dismantling process involved here, although i'm under the (mis)conception that i could remove the paralever and main frame as one unit to avoid the hastle of the pivot bolts. is this even possible??? i just wasn't sure about the process of aligning a clutch. from what i can gather, it's just inserting something like a dowel (metal or wooden) into the space where the input shaft goes when reassembling things??? do the plates have to be in any sort of relation to eachother? i'm assuming this will make more sense once i'm inside the machine.

Yes you can remove the swingarm assy still connected to the rear subframe. And reinstall... you will need a narrow prybar to re snap the front ujoint back on to the output shaft.I have pics somewhere... Not sure where though.

On the Clutch...As Jony says, you need to align the disk when you tighten the pressure blate bolts, otherwise the transmission input shaft will not slide into it when you are trying to reinstall the transmission. Also be careful when removing, and reinstalling the rear frame. It fits very close to fuel injection lines and if you get rough with it the injector fittings can be damaged.

Found some pics...

Here is mine...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150860874.jpg

2 weeks later... Here is Repoe3's

Better image... and I cleaned my store room a little since I had company visiting :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104767987.jpg

great, exactly what i was looking for, i saw repoe3's description of spline lube and figured that was the removal process i would go for

only trick will be dealing with the abs line, but i'll cross that hurdle when i come to it

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150862659.jpg


:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Bill
How 'bout I just drop mine off at your place when my clutch goes out? I'll leave you a racier chain saw.
Jim

:)

is that like an aprilia 125cc hooked up to a chain saw blade and handle :D

repoe3

man, everytime i see pics from that procedure...oddly enough...i want to do it again. weird. i am sure with the miles i hope to put on the bike, there will be a couple opportunities in the future.

repoe3

Your bike is very photogenic...

Re: Clutch Alignment, a few questions:
 

Strongly encourage you to replace everything associated with the clutch assembly,...not just the friction plate. It's a very time consuming job and shortcuts are more expensive in the long run if you choose not to renew all wearing surfaces together.

re chain saw, I have a nice German one taking up space. Mayhap Bill would get more use out of it than I do.
Jim

What am I fixing to buy now??? Zundapp...

Hey I asked him first!:p

Just a heads up Tom,
My pond isn't big enough to dispose of any... um, well... lets just say you will have to behave... :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150939194.jpg

Also the rear seals (2 of them) require a "Special Tool" to allow one to slide the seal over the angle cut. I made my own out of a Aerosol can lid. Rolling the seal back like a rubber is how you transfer the part onto this make shift transfer part. Also the first seal goes in All the way...measure the second before removing...if its too deep you will screw up the seal and it should last about 60 crank rotations before it chews up the seal because of the angle cut. (Part of the venting system)

Not a job for the faint at heart...

As for the clutch...I use a bushing that fits in the spline then a punch similar in diameter so that i can "Center" the plate before torquing everything down....

Good Luck
Tomas

the aresol can top is what i've heard works well if you get it just right. a call to my parts dealer confirmed this makeshift part, he said the factory tool was real expensive