While its down, what should I do?

[VetteRacer]

I went from this



To this



in about 3 hours...

Planned work is as follows:
1. Replace battery, reason for needing to take apart
2. Clean everything I can, its sat outside most my ownership, filthy (wax body/rims)
3. Replace fork seals, only been blown for a year or so
4. Send Ohlins out for rebuild, 13k from me, who knows from prev owner
5. Add battery terminal off starter, had to charge bike without HUGE PITA
6. Change oil & filter, past due
7. Valve adjustment, past due?
8. Install Speedbleeds and replace brake and clutch fluids
9. Install FIM chip that I have had for a year or so
10. New front tire, clutch lever side is nice and treadless
11. Figure something out for powering Gerbings gear, and adding accesories in future, Distribution block?
12. Change fuel filter
13. Corrosion repair, from sitting outside in Maryland some bolts have surface rust, need to clean or replace

I think thats all I have planned. Is there anything else I should do while I have major downtime?
Bike is sitting at 73k right now.

Matt

[Flatbutt1]

HID kit

[wswartzwel]

Spline inspection/lube.
Clean & Polish the exhaust
inspect wiring harness plugs for corrosion
talk wife into letting you replace it with the new 12S

[motoyoyo]

Matt, it's about time you tore into that thing.

Aside from a chance to give it a thorough cleaning, you will also be able to see better if everything is in tact and working properly. Your bike will thank you.

Up until last year sometime, Gerbing's has used the same power connector as Battery Tender. This is really handy for charging the battery as well as powering the electrics. If you do not already have a Battery Tender you can purchase the power cable seperately for about $5. It is 3 feet long and has a 15 amp inline fuse and can be routed anywhere under your seat for easy access. You shouldn't need anything more than this for your Gerbing stuff.

You should also consider some stainless steel brake lines if you do not already have them. At 73k the stock rubber hoses are probably a bit spoangy by now. They make a nice improvement to the brakes. You should also plan to do a complete fluid change for your brakes and clutch hydraulics. Check you brake pads and maybe clean up the pins and clips if needed.

I had a lot of bolt corrosion on my bike when I bought it used from W Virginia. You are probably better off buying metric hardware from an industrial supply rather than BMW. The BMW stuff is more expensive and has the same minumum corrosion resistance that it had originally. Have fun and take your time with it.

[R111S]

A few more suggestions:

1) Disconnect and reconnect the ABS and Motronic Connectors several times to disturb the contact oxidation. Be sure to Turn the Throttle all the way closed/open a few times before starting it up again since the Motronic Memory is lost went Battery Voltage is removed.

2) Clean the Battery (-) Cable Lug to the top of the Tranny...it's under the Battery Tray. Also clean the Alternator Terminal Lugs.

3) Replace the Alternator Drive Belt (normal replacement interval is ~36K Miles).

4) Lightly grease the inside of the Differential Hub area where it mates to the wheel to prevent corrosion by water entry.



5) Check for chafing of the PCV Hose where it routes around the Battery Tray on the right front corner. Mine was almost perforated. I put a plastic edge trim piece in place to prevent further damage.

[VetteRacer]

Scott: My Gerbings uses single connector, not the dual like shows on Battery Tender site.. I have the battery connectors that came with my clothing stuff, will probably modify one so its not 6' long though.. I have a DieHard trickle charger, I think the starter post setup on the newer bikes should work nicely for me. Allows jump starts if need be, wouldnt want to put that much strain on little lines like the tender has...

Front has SS lines, rear isn't, will check into prices on those. Full flush of those is planned. Pads up front are toast, rears are fine, replaced when I got bike. Will be researching pads on here...

If a quick brushing doesnt get rid of the corrosion then I will replace the bolts from local stores vs BMW. Luckily I was only in MD for a short time, so not too much happened. Hasnt increased at all since moving here...

One of the bolts on the filter cover (where the snorkel screws in) had massive corrosion on it, also a little on the battery cable cover, ate through. Not sure whats up with it, vent line was fine. Battery that was in there was a BMW non-gel battery.. Lasted 5.5 years or so, not too bad..

Flattbutt: Upgrade cash right now is tied up in trying to get a car, HIDs are wonderful and I want to do the upgrade, but riding time isnt enough right now to justify it, also dont ride at night often... Good idea though

Wart: Good idea, I willc heck the spline, I replaced it at about 63k miles with a used one and have checked for metal dust as was around with the bad one when it went, but havent looked hard at it lately.
Cleaning exhaust is in plans. Entire bike is getting a hardcore cleaning. Bike looked showroom new when it arrived at Bobs BMW from Texas (60k miles), it sat outside from then till May when I got married and got a garage to store it in. I think its been washed once since I got it...
No chance on R12S (or K12S), not with a hopeful car purchase very soon.

Thanks guys, keep em coming!
Matt

[VetteRacer]

R111S: 1. No ABS, Motronic is out right now for chip install, will use that contact cleaner stuff on both sides. Thanks for the reminder on throttle!
2. Will do! Thanks
3. Didnt think about that. Not very knowledgable on the Twins, will order that with the starter connector.
4. Will do!
5. Good to know. Will check it out. Havent given bike good look over yet, just ripped it apart so far.
Thanks!

[wood-d]

Originally posted by VetteRacer
I went from this

11. Figure something out for powering Gerbings gear, and adding accesories in future, Distribution block?

Here's how I solved that problem:

http://www.2zars.com/fuse/index.html

I have PIAA's, a Heat-troller for my Gerbing liner/gloves and a powerlet socked wired to the fuse block so far. The powerlet is for my GPS.

I bought a portable heat-troller several years ago. I velcro'd it to the upper triple clamp so I can control it and see the LED easily.

Here some info on the powerlet socket. The 7th photo in the powerlet sequence shows the heat-troller (to the right of the key)

http://www.2zars.com/r1100s.html#POWERLET

Looks like you have a fun Winter project going on there!!

[VetteRacer]

wood. Thanks! Good item.
Any issue with water? While not in the plans, I have riddin in rain, snow, hail, etc before, so gotta be safe setup...
I have been looking for a waterproof distribution block, figure fuses can be done inline if need be. But have come up empty so far..

[Hong Kong Nick]

WOW! After all that lot there's nothing else to add, is there?

I second the man with the suggestion about the braided drake hoses, though.

Determined not to sink the family fortune into the BoxerCup as I have with other bikes BUT hoses are definitel on the next 'to do' list.

Nick

[wood-d]

Originally posted by VetteRacer
wood. Thanks! Good item.
Any issue with water? While not in the plans, I have riddin in rain, snow, hail, etc before, so gotta be safe setup...
I have been looking for a waterproof distribution block, figure fuses can be done inline if need be. But have come up empty so far..

I installed the fuse box a few months ago. I have not ridden through any massive storms, but the box has gotten plenty wet from regular rain and when I wash the bike. The Centech people mention it is "water resistant". The wire is all marine grade, so no issues with corrosion. Centech does make a different configuration that has a cover, but no ground lugs. I have been thinking about making some sort of cover for the fuses. Here is a link to Centech site. I have no financial interest in them.

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml

If you want waterproof, look at marine catalogs. They make them for boats.

[bradzdotcom]

buy it a real horn.
the stock horn sounds like a sheep being raped.
the auto parts stores sell a magnum blaster horn (part # 3-0115).
138 decibels and if you bend the existing horn tab just a bit it will bolt right on.
costs less than a case of beer. could save your life.
and since you bought a home in las vegas, remember this: all that corrosion that you're experiencing/replacing? won't happen anymore where you live now.

[SergioK]

Matt, I might have a set of brake pads for you (as they don't fit my bike). They are FA294HH. Let me know if you want/need them.

[Moybin]

Agree with pulling the tranny and inspecting the splines. Huge amount of data on what to do if they are wearing out.

Do the horn. Upgrade the taill lights. Get some VM wheel cover plugs and install them, too.

[Rapid Dog]

SCRUB CLEAN LUBE SCRUB CLEAN LUBE SCRUB CLEAN LUBE...and yes, a new horn is a good idea!

So glad to see you doing thie Matt, but we won't know who to give the filthyest bike award to now...

You doing this in Hell or Vegas?

Need any help just give a holler.

[VetteRacer]

Rapid, in Vegas. Its so nice having a garage of my own!!! Unfortunatly the car has to sit outside, so its freezing at 530 when I leave... but oh well, I'll deal...
If the award was cash, Id refrain from cleaning,

Sergiok: PM on its way.

Brad: Thanks, will look into that. Unfortunatly I drink expensive beer, so a case is $60+ :P. Having grown up most my life in the dry desert, I dont miss that humidity of back there at all!

Moybin: VM covers? Any part # for tail light upgrade?

Wood: Thanks again.

[Moybin]

On the frame sections check all welds. Look for cracks in the powder coat. On the rear frame steel look at the two tabs that hold on the seat pan. The left one is notoriously cold-welded and usually attached to the pan, not the frame (at least in the 1999 models).

If you are removing the CAT and going with an aftermarket pipe attach a turnbuckle to the seat pan. There is a hole right in the center (left-right) that can be used as a support point for the front end of the cans and/or the new pipe.

Lube all the pins and springs in the foot pegs, replace rubber on the foot pegs for a "like new" look.

Wire brush all disassembled bolts to make reassembly easier. Buy a torque wrench if you don't already have one, and USE IT.

[John Lyon]

Originally posted by bradzdotcom
138 decibels

On the way back from CA Speedway last week, used mine to "inform" a big black Mercedes that they were changing lanes right into me. Next step was to give the door a little tap with my foot (also a BradZ original), but they jumped to attention and corrected quickly (cell phone and all). Weird thing is, I can't hear the horn at all with my earplugs in, but I know others do.

[VetteRacer]

138dB is louder then my Vette (12xdB idling).. Maybe I need some of these horns for her too! Just incase someone doesnt hear the 12xdB by itself.. lol