Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > BMW Forums > BMW Technical Forums > BMW R1100S / R1200S Tech Forum


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 19
Think I found my clutch problem!

Well on Saturday my '99 R1100S with 25,500 miles started to have clutch slip after a full day of riding hard in the mountains. Funny thing is that it worked great in the mountains and the slipping started with a WOT pass on the interstate on the ride home. I rode the bike again today and it was fine until about 10 min into the ride and it started to slip again under hard acceleration. I pulled the slave cylinder to find this:




Seems the slave cylinder started leaking. My question is should I replace the slave cylinder now or will the clutch just keep slipping since it has some fluid on the disk now? Would I be better off just waiting until it totally craps out and then replace the clutch and the slave cylinder? The bike pulls fine now except when I get on the throttle really hard, normal riding is fine.
Old 09-10-2007, 07:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Man it's flat out here!
 
R111S's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 2,572
Garage
My '99 has 47K Miles and I changed the Clutch Fluid 22K Miles ago...I plan to change it out again after the Potosi Rally. When did you last change your Brake/Clutch Fluid and what brand did you use.

Sorry I don't have any advice for your situation but if it were me I'd ride it out for the end of the riding season and then make the complete repairs as a "winter project".
__________________
"What I've tried to do in the two books I've done, Signature in the Cell and Darwin's Doubt, is to show just how weak the materialist's hand is in explaining the key events in the history of life. ... We would encourage people to roll up their sleeves, do their homework on this." Stephen Meyer PHD
Old 09-10-2007, 08:15 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Moderator
 
roger albert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Austin, TX. USA
Posts: 11,605
NO,

you should not keep going. Change the cylinder and see if it works. Often, it will,
if contamination was caught early and was minimal.
If you keep going and run it slipping at all, you'll kill any chance of getting by just
replacing the friction disc (i.e. you'll need the pressure plates, making it much more expensive)
__________________
99 R11S w/ BBP, InDuct, Íhlins, PVMs, Braking, SJ-Filter, ZTech, HIDs
D675 R90Cafe R60/2 M900 SV650-SS CBR150R XR125 & CRF175 Motards


OnRoad OffRoad Cycles, Austin, TX: BMW, Ital, Suspension, Electrics
Dealer for K-Tech, JRI, GP Suspension, Penske, Íhlins, RaceTech, Elka, Wilbers, IKON & Works
www.ororcycle.com

CMRA EXPERT #841
Various Formula 5, 6 & 7 championships 2006-2012

A3, Navigator,
Old 09-10-2007, 09:15 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Adelaide - Australia
Posts: 23
Garage
Do you think you have lost Clutch fluid? Is the reservoir low?

The still rod that the slave cylinder connects too is the push rod connected through the input shaft the the pressure plate. The push rod has a small felt seal around it to stop oil from the gear box from reaching the clutch surface. Oil in the section you seem to be showing I don't believe is uncommon and hence the reason for the felt seal between the input shaft and push rod.

Does the clutch operate the slave cylinder at the moment, does it return easily after release?

The push rod can become gummed-up' with clutch dust and dirt which may prevent it from returning. There are plenty on notices on this forum in relation to input shaft problems, where the clutch splines fail to fully return to the neutral position all the way and eventually the splines will fail. If this happens a new input shaft, and clutch will be required. While it is possible to see the shaft splines with the starter motor removed, a thorougher inspection requires the removal of the gearbox so that the clutch can be removed to inspect it's internal splines.
__________________
1993 R100GS PD
2003 R1150R Edition 80
2003 R1100S BCR

Wanted - 1939 R50 TT or RS54 Rennsport
Old 09-11-2007, 01:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,054
Slave cylinders fail with some regularity. However, I'm not sure you are looking a a failed slave cylinder there. That looks more like a leaking transmission seal. is that brake fluid or tranny oil in that cavity? Pop open your clutch master cylinder. Is the fluid contaminated? If not, I think you slave may be OK. the throwout bearing usually is the first thing to go in the slave cylinder. It will usually be cocked to the side if it is bad, and the ball bearings will fall out. From the pic, yours look OK.
__________________
Jim Moore
Jax, FL
'01 R1100S
'07 CBR600RR
Old 09-11-2007, 02:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 19
The clutch fluid was just changed by the dealer at the 24K service 1500 miles ago. Per the post above I do believe that might be trans fluid I found. After thinking about it the fluid did have a burnt oil smell to it and the fluid in the clutch is clean and the level is where it should be. I'm probably just going to contact the dealer to see what kind of $$ I'm looking at to have them fit it for me, I'm a little scared to do all the work needed to get to the clutch and also change the seal. I may just keep on riding it for a few months and save up some cash to do this. Sucks I only got 1500 miles out of the bike before I'm having to dump this kind of $$ into it. If I didn't love the bike so much I'd just go ahead and get rid of it and cut my loss.
Old 09-11-2007, 06:51 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
 
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 11,162
I agree with Roger. If the clutch is contaminated it may wear at an accelerated rate but you may be able to set aside a few $'s in anticipation.
Old 09-11-2007, 09:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff Anstey View Post
Do you think you have lost Clutch fluid? Is the reservoir low?

The still rod that the slave cylinder connects too is the push rod connected through the input shaft the the pressure plate. The push rod has a small felt seal around it to stop oil from the gear box from reaching the clutch surface. Oil in the section you seem to be showing I don't believe is uncommon and hence the reason for the felt seal between the input shaft and push rod.

Does the clutch operate the slave cylinder at the moment, does it return easily after release?

The push rod can become gummed-up' with clutch dust and dirt which may prevent it from returning. There are plenty on notices on this forum in relation to input shaft problems, where the clutch splines fail to fully return to the neutral position all the way and eventually the splines will fail. If this happens a new input shaft, and clutch will be required. While it is possible to see the shaft splines with the starter motor removed, a thorougher inspection requires the removal of the gearbox so that the clutch can be removed to inspect it's internal splines.
Can the push rod be removed with the transmission in place or do you have to pull the transmission to get it out for inspection? I'm waiting to hear back from the dealer on an estimated cost to fix the problem, I'm expecting $1000~$1200.
Old 09-11-2007, 09:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 19
Just got this email back from Blue Moon in Atlanta, sounds like a fair price so I'll probably just ride the bike until it starts to get too bad and let them fix it.

Looks like a bad seal on the tranny. Continuing to ride it will continue to saturate the friction plate with fluid. It will get worse over time however it will not hurt anything any further. Once it gets too bad, the bike will not move forward any more. Therefore, make sure you have towing on your insurance or get AMA's MO-TOW roadside assistance coverage and be prepared. Complete clutch replacement; friction place, pressure plate plus the seal will run you $800 or more. Definitely a wintertime job. Some techs will try to save you money by not replacing the pressure plate. While its apart, go ahead and replace with new parts.
Old 09-11-2007, 12:15 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Flatbutt1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NWNJ
Posts: 5,596
IMHO Mo-Tow sux. Try KOA RV towing instead. Also IMHO when you replace the clutch replace EVERYTHING including all of the bolts.
__________________
'99 R1100S DDP of course

I was born a rightie but now I'm a leftie.
Old 09-11-2007, 12:57 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #10 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:39 PM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.