11s right turn signal switch repairable?
 

The right handlebar combo switch (61317650744) is $180 from BMW - this to replace a broken $2 switch that is captive inside the combo switch. Have any of you ripped into this and replaced the switch? Advice? What switch did you use? Source etc?

I have disassembled, signal switches on many brands of bikes over the years.... usually they will snap apart, and a little emerycloth work has them going again.

If not, you can pick one up on BBY for a LOT less than $180. If/when they get one, of course...

I presume that you've verified 100% that the switch is the fault point, and not any of the bulbs/sockets/relays? I had a non-functioning turn signal on a bike once, and it turned out that a bulb had vibrated loose in its socket.

Yes, I've tested it to my satisfaction by tapping into the wires immediately adjacent. The switch never closes (electrically speaking of course).

The grip switches are pretty durable esp. the turns signals that are just "momentary-contact" switches. Not my first guess for the location of the problem. But they do have to take a lot of abuse and bad weather. I spray WD-40 into them regularly for the several benefits from spraying it. WD-40 and a bunch of pushes of the switch might fix your problem. I don't think WD-40 harms anything, so spray away.

Rebuilding a grip switch at home is tricky if you have to deal with little springs and other parts that fly across the room. But might be fun on a cold winter night.

A very happy day for me when I installed the Kissan Signal Minder. I was breaking my thumbs turning the signals on and esp. turning them off. Can't say much nice about certain of their business practices, but their Signal Minder works nicely. Stock set-up real PIA.

I've got the same problem. When I turn on the emergency flashers the both front and rear bulbs flash. I've been looking for a right switch assembly, but I have heated grips so I have to find one that is specified for heated grips.
I think I'll try taking it apart soon. Can't hurt (famous last words......).

Paul, you can take them apart, I've done it. As far as finding replacement switches no idea.

I'll swap
 

I have a complete working switch set/brake master cylinder assembly on my track bike, a 1999 R1100S. I've removed all the things that the switch used to operate and have tied the wires back. The only purpose for the assembly now is to use the brake master cylinder and throttle assembly.

All of the wires and plugs are intact. If your front brake master cylinder and throttle assembly is in good working order and is compatible with what I have now, I'm willing to work a swap of some sort.

The Aussie to the rescue! Thanks.

Were I to separate the rear half of the right hand assembly that contains the switch components and send them to you, you'd send your working switch assy. to me? I'll post images when I get close to the .pdf to confirm that I know what we're talking about.

Be sure and let the rest of us know what's involved. I'd love to fix mine but would rather learn any hard lessons second hand....

I'm confused as to why one would need to replace the master cylinder reservoir with the switch assembly. They are independent of each other and can be removed and replaced as such.

I hope they are talking about taking the actual turn signal switch apart and fixing that......

Nope. Sounds like Paul (pwillikers) is talking about trading switch assemblies and reservoirs with twodear. The switch assembly is all that needs to be traded, not any of the reservoirs or grips.

Of course, if the aussie doesn't have heated grips, Paul is a little out-of-luck.

I don't think anyone posting here so far has actually gotten to the point where they will be tearing into the assembly themselves yet. If I had a junk one to practice on, I'd gladly do it and take pictures and notations.

The first picture shows everything that is irrelevant to this discussion and stays on the bike.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193171286.jpg

This second picture shows the faulty part in question, the combo switch (#2 - containing the kill switch, the right turn signal switch and the turn signal cancel switch, NO heated grips switch) which can be separated from the master cylinder with the philips screw (#3) shown and one philips screw up from the bottom (#6 in the first picture). The wires attached to the switch go to a connector in the right relay box. After the two screws are removed and the wires disconnected, the combo switch is loose in your hands.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193171295.jpg

The right turn signal switch is what is bad (I think) on mine, at least it doesn't work. I was hoping someone would take one apart and "enlighten" the rest of us as to the proceedure and problems.....
I'm going to try the WD40 tonight just to make sure.

It is okay by me. And my bike doesn't have heated hand grips.

The pictures make it clear what you are talking about. I'll PM you with my home email address.

2D

Fixed
 

Well, once again props to George and Billy who, of course, are correct. I pulled the switch off and pried the orange push button loose from it's pivots.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193517279.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193517574.jpg

which allowed me to pull the switch out in my hand.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193517752.jpg

I pulled off the rubber boot and was able to get to the oxidized contacts inside.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193517237.jpg

A little emory cloth on the contacts, confirm operation with an ohm meter and some straight pins through the insulation, reassemble and back in business.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193517874.jpg

I be blinkin'!

I think that is terrific! Looking at the way the parts are designed, it seems made to be disassembled and fixed rather than a disposable subassembly that is "Not Servicable By Owner".

All the little bits must have been designed by a series of graduate engineers locked in a dungeon, working for a number of years to attain a promotion that gets them onto a floor with windows. Then some specialist company had to quote price and delivery for a bag full of little rubber boots, or brass contacts or cast black plastic. Then some other company quoted price and delivery to assemble the discrete bits into a working assembly that was delivered to and eventually bolted onto a handlebar at BMW.

With that degree of tiny detail and bespoke parts, it is no wonder that these relatively low production machines cost so much.

Congrats on the courage to boldly go, where you have not been before Paul!

Great pics for others future use to BTW.

Thanks Billy. It wasn't a lack of courage it was an excess of stupidity that had me stymied. I have enough "courage" that I'm often able to get myself way in over my head in almost any endeavor. It's the smarts parts and brain farts.

Thanks as always for the generous offer of your accumulated knowledge. And, I'm disciplining myself to picture document these repair adventures for the benefit of those who follow.

Actually, if you live in Germany you find that almost everything they make can be dissasembled to the smallest detail and repaired...just warmed my heart when I lived there.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Now I know what I'll be attempting tonight. I just hope I'm as successful as you.

Thank you MISTER pwillikers. I took my switch off last night, and followed your directions and, BAM! I saved $200 and have right side turn signals.
The only short cut I took was to not disassemble the actual button. I sprayed the button and worked it a few times until the turn signals started working. Did it a couple more times for good measure and buttoned everything back up.
Thanks again!!
Now to replace the grips.

Similar problem with losing my starter button ... the whole assembly is expensive (quotes are around US$300). I got an assembly from Beemerboneyard (for a K1200RS ... the starter button is the same) and then tried to take it apart. There was a sticker that when removed reveals a small screw ... unscrew that and another visible screw and the whole assembly comes apart, revealing the starter switch AND the kill switch assembly. I then went down to my bike, repeated the unscrewing process and then put my 'new' starter button in, added the little metal retaining clip (that was the piece that came off originally, allowing the starter button to pop out!) and then reassembled.

Turned on the ignition and pushed the starter. NOTHING.

Damn.

Oh, kill switch in the ON position .. .turn it off, press starter and it fires up!

A cheap, simple fix without breaking anything!

Basically, BMW could sell the little bits and pieces for this right hand assembly, allowing self repair but instead they chose to sell an expensive 'all-in-one' part!

Thanks to Beemerboneyard for their help!

Nick

Normally Open of Normally Closed?
 

I've got the exact same issue... can't seem to get it working right... I'll get it working by futzing with it, but when I put it all back together it doesn't work (reliably)... BMW doesn't sell just the switch so I was considering putting a small micro switch in it's place, but needed to know if it's N.O or N.C.

only number I can find that seems close is S9073, but not sure if that's the part number or just the number used on the chart...

kinda hate to spend a couple hundred $$ for a 49 cent switch !!!

2002 R1150GS

Thanks,

MH

Thanks PWilkers. I had just ridden my 1100S around Australia 14,600 kilometres in 32 days and the last two in atrocious weather. Near the finish line my flashers would not shut down with the switch. CRC sprayed on the switch once pulled out and rapid on offs has fixed them.

Charity Ride we did was for raising awareness of depression and suicide prevention. We also raised over $410,000 for LifeLine Australia and Mental Health First Aid Australia to share.

Black Dog Ride - Raising Awareness of Depression and Suicide Prevention Since 2009

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psd0de7549.jpg