adjusting preload on rear Ohlins
 

Guys, I need some help. I decreased the rear preload on my 12S to try and give me some extra sag due to my short inseam. I don't care for the handling now and want to increase preload to where it was. But, when I turn the adjusting nut, which seems to be made of some kind of plastic/fiber (?), after about a quarter the nut "jumps" the thread back to where it was. WTF?

What's the trick here? Do I need to unload the shock, remove it, use a spring compressor, or what?? I've never seen this happen on any of the many shocks I've adjusted on my bikes.

Help!!

you are not alone. The nut is plastic.
here is a thread that discusses the issue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/373242-plastic-adjuster-ring-r12s-ohlins.html




Hope this helps.





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Did you have the same problem Bill? If so, what did you do? This is ridiculous. I'm really getting fed up with all the "niggles" we have to put up with riding BMW's. They work so well but are such a pain in thae ass!

I wish I did... i have an 1100 not a 1200.... I remember there was a part number for the replacement ring in that thread....

Your best option would be to have Pro Pilot install one of those hydraulic adjusters like Steve Carlton had done.... Here is a great thread he posted about that mod.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/335135-upgrading-r1200s-ohlins.html

It's still under warranty isn't it? Take it to the dealer and maybe they have a metal replacement instead of the plastic one.

Bob, this is the 2nd shock. My dealer warranteed the original.

However, I was able to resolve the problem. I brought the bike to the dealer because I don't have anything at home to lock the front tire down so I could safely lift the rear end. After we raised the rear of the bike to unload the shock, we were able to increase the preload. Of course, it would have been nice if the CD instructed you to do that, but I couldn't find it.

The Ducati 1098S guys are gonna be looking at the same issue.

I'm thinking that someone needs to fabricate an external spring compressor to take the load off the plastic ring nut so that it can be turned under a no-load situation. That woud take the stress off the plastic ring nut.

Bubba, go ahead and turn us out some. Titamium would be great, but we'll settle for aluminum (or as the English say, al-U-miniem).
You could patent it and call it the Bubba Nut.
I'll take one as soon as you run a batch off.

A batch off of Bubba nuts??? No thanks...

You guys are tough on Bubbas

Bubba - you going to join us in the BMW stands for the Daytona 200?

Working on a kitchen pass. Is there somewhere to camp?

Yes, there have been a couple threads on this.
No real need to go all the way to an HPA. Just get a metal ring.
Otoh, if you don't need to adjust again, you can just live with what you have at no cost.
And yes, the 1098S suffers the same. That was the first time I ran into it.
The frame is tighter in that app, so it's a worse problem still.
Very annoying issue.

I wonder if you could get BMW to replace the ring under warranty, if you could purchase the pre-loader yourself and have it "upgraded" from a metal ring to the pre-loader before the shock is re-installed on the bike?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173677792.jpg

Good idea how much is the hyraulic preload adjuster? is there a part number that fits R1200s rear shock? I haven't adjusted mine yet but warranty runs out in May and was goan drop rear a bit, so best do it now and see I guess!!

Here's the menu Pro Pilot came up with after doing my shocks. You'd have to ask Jim about parts prices, as these include labor:

http://onfinite.com/libraries/1130382/b01.jpg

I dont see pic?

I believe you use the two jam nuts that are located just above the lower shock mounting point to adjust shock length... aka ride height? That way you don't have to compromise preload for seat height.

That is true, if there's some range left there. If not, then preload is the next best option.