Fuze Block - Anyone use one?
 

I need to hard wire my new Garmin 550 and my Autocom system and have decided to go with a Fuze Block.
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/docs/fz-1-installation.pdf
This unit has a built in relay and allows you to change from constant on to switched power with the simple replacement of the fuse. I plan to run the 550 with constant power and the Autocom with switchable power. To install the unit one lead comes from the + Battery and the other comes from a switchable source. I'm thinking I will use the grey parking light wire for the switched power. Anybody use this setup or have any suggestions for me?
I was also planning on mounting both the autocom unit and the fuze block under the seat where the tire plug kit and tool kit are installed. Those items will go in my tank bag.

I helped a friend install one of these this past week in his R12GS. Two leads from the battery (+ and -) and one switched lead from where ever. That was the hard part. We ended up tieing into the OEM accessory plug under the seat (red/white wire). (We didn't want to tap into any really important wiring, hence the easily replaceable accessory plug.) All you need is a switched source.....the 5 amp limit doesn't matter as the real power comes from the battery. Seems to work great. He had his autocom and a bunch of other stuff hooked up. There seems to be about a 30 sec delay when you turn the ignition off before the switched power cuts off, so be patient if you use that.

I used them.
Have used this one from Centech. I added a relay so that it would have switched power.

Currently have this one from Touratech.

...most of the newer bikes have an unused switched accessory plug that is in the wiring harness on the left side of the frame neck... BMW uses it for the Navigation System... there is even a corresponding plug available you can buy as a spare.

I have both my Autocom and my BEL 65 hooked up to this plug (they have low draw)... but if you want to stay under the seat, you can use the accessory plug wiring just as well.

Why would you need this on a R1100S? When I had mine, I had just about every accessory available running directly off of the battery, and never had any problems.


On my GS, I use the Blue Sea ST Fuse block. I think they're about $40.00 at West Marine stores. A relay can be found for just a couple of bucks at most auto parts stores.

http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126

Two reasons: 1) you leave something on and it drains the battery - for example, anybody who runs heated grips directly to the battery will, sooner or later, leave them on and come back to find their bike dead; and 2) if you get the right switched power lead (e.g., the headlight), you can often have the electrical accessories off when you're starting the bike and need all the juice for the starter motor.

I used the model below (the "universal" one) on my FJR and it works well. It provides six indivdually fused switched outlets and an additional input that stays connected with the ignition off to hook up a battery charger.

http://www.electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/pplate.htm

- Mark

I guess I don't "need" it but it will help to clean up all the wiring and I won't need a bunch of relays for each electronic gizmo I add. I also didn't want to run the Autocom by direct power b/c I think it would eventually drain my battery. This block gives me the option to do either. I will mount the fuze block in a location that is easily accessible instead of a bunch of wires, fuses and relays tucked up behind the battery or some other hard to get to spot.

....Out of curiosity why would you not need such an item on an S but need one on a GS? And what are the advantages of the Blue Sea that made you go with it?

The GS, like the R1200S, uses BMW's CAN-bus wiring system, which is extremely susceptible to throwing error codes from voltage fluctuation. The R1100S is not burdened by that.

CAN-bus: http://www.bmwra.org/otl/canbus/

I got the Blue Sea box mostly because I have three West Marine stores withing 20 minutes of my house. Blue Sea and Centech seem to be the most popular for use on CANBUS bikes.

Ah, got it. That makes good sense. The overwhelming complaint I hear about the new bikes is their sensitive electronics. That's why I'll be keeping mine for a while:)

Mark,

I put a Centech on my R1100S:

http://r1100s.2zars.com/fuse/index.html

Be sure to use Marine grade wire - it is more resistant to corrosion. The photos may help you with placement and wire size.

Want more great free info on electronic products? Go here http://easternbeaver.com/index.html
I have bought from here and they were great.

After speaking with Curt Gran about his Fuze-Blocks, I can't imagine one reason to go with Centech anymore. The Fuze Blocks have more function with the switching, a labeling panel, and seem to be a little more waterproof. Curt doesn't mess around (see his 'about' page and just look at his ST dash). It's not replacing a fuse to convert from switched to constant, it's simply moving it from one circuit to another. The relay for the switched power is contained in the unit. The discussion led to the belief that the running light for the headlight was a good place to tap if mounting up front, and use the license plate light wire if mounting in the rear.

I haven't used one yet, but from what I saw when I looked at them a few months ago, the FuzeBlock has it all over the Centech and especially over that incredibly bulky Blue Seas monstrosity.

I installed a Centech. Didn't know about the Fuze. I put it under/into the little black bin/box that held the stock tire repair kit (I have a bigger repair kit with extra CO2 cartridges and a mini-pump that I store in the rear bags).

My main reason for using the fuse block was clutter around the battery. It seems to me that every time I pull the tupper-ware off and mess around or add some electronic device, that rat's nest of wires by the battery gets in the way. Let's say you want to pull the air filter and clean it. BMW had made it fun enough as it is, but with auxillary wiring, it's cruel and unusual punishment.

Right now I have the aux lights hooked up (the Moto Lights that MCN did not like, but I saw Flattbutt with them and if they're good enough for Flatty, they're good enough for me), the GPS (Zumo 550), the 135db horns (from Griot's - best investment ever!), and an aux pigtail outlet for the Gerbing's (I hate to be cold).

If you're starting to add more and more electrical stuff to your bike, a fuse box of some sort is a sanitary way to go. Sounds like the Fuze is the trick set-up.

OK, so I decided to go with the Fuze block and ordered the thing Friday evening. It was sitting on my front step at 4pm on Monday! Now that's good service. This thing looks well built too! Anyway, although I haven't hooked it up yet (Still waiting for a few more overpriced Autocom parts) I think I'll be happy. The endorsements of Anton, Trex , Sideshow and others have helped to confirm my purchase. I'll let you know how the install goes.

...why yes, yes I do...just installed last munf on the GS...pretty nice to have really, no worries about Canibus system, switchable by just the position of each fuse.
I talked to the inventor, very savvy dude.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3025/...d35e84e3_b.jpg

Do you have to unscrew the cover on the Fuzeblocks to get the fuzes?

yes

...reason I went with the FB over the Centech is it has a built in relay.

Heated Sock

Passenger Sock


Good work Rapid.. nothing worse than your passenger getting cold feet!