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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Bellingham WA
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You broken rear subframe tab is a more serious problem. I'm not acquainted with the accepted repair procedures, but if you have to pull the frame to reweld the tab, wow, that's a LOT of work. Dunno what you paid for the bike, but at some point, she's better sold for parts.
- Mark |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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First I'll have to round up some unbroken fairing pieces but I'm getting a good feeling about this project. |
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Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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I wanna Live 'til I die!
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yup...
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak... https://www.facebook.com/Uncommon-Adventures-by-Rick-Ralf-681965548931729 2005 R1200GS - 2006 Suzuki DR650 - 2011 Husky TE250 - 2014 KTM690 Enduro - 2022 Husqvarna Norden 901 |
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Dont taunt happy fun ball
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The rear tab is easy for any welder. My advise would be to bite the bullet and buy a new front fairing frame. The fairing frame holds everything onto the front of the bike, and if it's not straight, nothing else will line-up. Ever. Although you could get lucky.... |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: charlotte, n.c.
Posts: 2,885
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Andrew is sooo right!! I've been messing around trying to straighten a front sub frame for over a year now, and I just can't get it right. Should have bit the bullet and just bought a new one and been done with it. Instead, I'm just fiddle farten around with the bike unfinished. I'll break down and order on one day.
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dee jones |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Another question - my instrument housing is smashed, though the instruments themselves seem to be alive, at least the needles move when I turn on the key and the various lights are lit.
I see from an online parts diagram that I can buy the housing separately so it's possible to re-house mine. Is that worth it or should I just troll eBay, and put in a request at Beemer Boneyard? My speedo's in KPH, and the bike has ABS so that makes the housing itself fairly expensive, but still, what's the best way? Do these instruments come up now and again? Does anybody on here have a spare to sell? I don't really care if it's MPH as I could switch my speedo into it. TIA! |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Weston, Florida, USA
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Mal Glanz Ft. Lauderdale, FL '12 ZX-14R '09 CBR1000RR (w/pegs & bars, now my touring bike) '10 S1000RR & '07 R1200S (gone, but loved 'em) |
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hey zx, thinking along those lines, and considering the man with an unquenchable fetish for disassembly is in here (hi shred), maybe this thread should be renamed When to Repair, When to Replace, When to Run Like Hell.
mdb~you'll probably end up doing trolling, the boneyard and find additional sources looking for the parts you need. keep in mind, the things you're replacing are the things most often crunched. (oh yea, and that bike in the barn thing you'll hear about....don't bother). there's another catch (currently a car thing, but i'd imagine bikes are in there too): the insurance companies are making good bucks on scrap metal and they're actually turning a profit by totalling/scrapping the car rather than fixing it. like cars, it's probably getting harder to find bikes to pick away at.
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'04 R1100s. I changed a couple o' things. Last edited by bradzdotcom; 02-11-2009 at 08:01 AM.. |
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Has anyone got pictures of a "naked" R1100S? Wonder how that beautiful alloy tank would polish up? |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 909
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Here's another idea ![]()
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Kevin Moore |
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Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Interesting... And I'm astonished at how well the actual instruments seem to have survived the accident on this bike. They look virtually untouched, though the white part of the housing is destroyed - in about 15 pieces. Even the front of the housing is still useable. Hardly scratched at all, though one glass needs replacing. |
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Location: Sydney Australia
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Have a search in GUS' posts. He was building something, not sure if it was ever finished.
Found it. work in progress
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Kevin Moore Last edited by KMoore; 02-11-2009 at 12:21 PM.. |
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Ha, I was about to send that one
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Kevin Moore |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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The broken part: ![]() The frame part: ![]() I think dry bubble gum might have been a more effective repair. |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 52
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I don't think using a crowbar and bits of wood to straighten it will work very well because I don't want to put any pressure on the other parts and end up damaging anything else and it would be hard to push the frame in the right direction(s). So, I was wondering what to use to try to pull the parts out and into line, and thought some kind of solid framework is what I needed when I remembered I have some scaffolding which I could setup around the bike and use that to pull against. I think it's brilliant, if I say so myself. I'd love to just go out and buy another subframe and if I have to I will, but this idea seems to have potential, I think. Now I've just got to get the neighbour to return the scaffolding so I can try it out. That may be the tough part.
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bozeman Montana
Posts: 3,063
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I found you this at Moto-bins http://www.motobins.co.uk/
Z62280 R1100S BOXER CUP COMPLETE INSTRUMENTS IN MPH (MILES PER HOUR). BMW NO 62 11 7 688 280. MAY SUIT OTHER R1100S. UK DEALER PRICE £390.00 + VAT OUR PRICE £99.00 + VAT.
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Dyno'd 104Hp 74.3 ft lbs torque at the rear wheel ![]() 1150 cylinders 12:1 pistons/ race cams, Lennies induct, Laser Boxercup II Exhaust, Ohlins shocks, Dymag Carbon Fiber Five Spoke wheels, Crossover tube removed, heads ported and polished Bigger valves installed intake and exhaust! SJ power filter, motoyoyo clamps , HID
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