R1100S - 10mm Shortened Telelever

[Guest24]

Scott, can you email me a file of the mod to print out to give to my machinist?

[motoyoyo]

Bubba, PM me your email address and I'll send you the Word document.

[Kjell-Anders]

I couldnīt wait for winter so I have made the mod (not 100% completed, but I have been able to test the bike).

First, the impressions of steering and stability: The modification is a success and has given the bike exaktly what I wanted. Now it is much more effortless to turn in, and it easier to change path in a turn - an important feature.
The stability in turns is unaffekted, but of course the bike is much more lively and reacts more precise to riderīs impulses. Some people surely would call that instabilty, but I donīt agree. Most important, the bike is in no way nervous and I donīt consicer a steering damper more nescessary than before the mod.

Second, the mod wasnīt actually difficult to make but I had to take very much time to ensure that the moved hole was in the register without side offset. I used the method Scott recommendet carefully increasing the hole. When I turned the arm to underside and tried to measure with the insert I wasnīt sure that the register still was in the limits. It isnīt very easy to measure that so I made a wooden jig. It is very important to keep the inner surface very flat and you must be very careful smoothing the holeīs edges so nothing can affect (tilt) the insert.
An other advice is to ensure you have a reasonable gap between the old hole and the circular material you use to fill it. The weld needs a gap to fill, otherwise you risk a weak joint when you grind it flat at the top of the arm.
When I was almost certain, I welded the insert only in two points (in order to have it easily removable if something was wrong) and put the bike together for a test ride. And, as you have seen, everything was in order.

Now I will complete the welding under the arm and will also carefully move the steering damper attachment 10 mm. Here, you must move it parallell to the a-armīs centerline and not move it along the arm in order to keep the geometry.

At last, many thanks to you Scott for all efforts you made to share the fantastic mod with us. It has given me a new bike at almost no cost.

[Markus from Oz]

Scott and anyone else,

What other model Beemers share the same telever A arm as the R1100S??!!

I haven't had any luck finding one for the mod. So anyone who's got one for sale or any other models that share the same A arm, so I can widen my search...

Thanking you in advance.

[twodear]

Originally Posted by Markus from Oz

Scott and anyone else,

What other model Beemers share the same telever A arm as the R1100S??!!

I haven't had any luck finding one for the mod. So anyone who's got one for sale or any other models that share the same A arm, so I can widen my search...

Thanking you in advance.

Markus, since the one I had was bent, perhaps this will help find a good one.
I thought that all the a-arms were identical except for paint, but maybe not...

From Real OEM cross reference;

Part 31422330609 (Black trailing arm) was found on the following vehicles:
259R R 1100 R 94 (0402,0407) N/A, USA
259R R 850 R 94 (0401,0406) N/A, USA
259R R 1100 R 94 (0402,0407) N/A, Europe
259R R 850 R 94 (0401,0406) N/A, Europe
259S R 1100 S 98 (0422,0432) N/A, USA
259S R 1100 S 98 (0422,0432) N/A, Europe

[motoyoyo]

Kjell, good to hear you liked the test ride. More lively, better turn in and no more need for a steering damper than before is a good description of the change. Yes, it is very important to keep the top surface flat when heating and pounding the top area flat for the ball joint nut clearance. If the metal is heated evenly to a dull red glow on just the raised portion, the metal will move into shape very easily with only a few taps with the hammer. If this surface is flat and the bolt passes through the cut out hole then the large metal spacer will be sufficient for alignment purposes.

Also, the sheet metal piece for the new bottom surface should be cut with a slight overlap (.10 inch or so) to the cut out portion on the bottom surface of the telelever. Like you said, there needs to be a good solid platform for welding this joint without the risk of burn through. I will study your comments more closely and see if there is anything else I might add the the instructions to make them more clear. Thanks for your input.

Markus, the R1100R, R850R, R1100RS, R1150RS, R1100RT and R1150RT should all share the same basic telelever. The only difference is that the R1100S has the steering damper bracket where the others do not. I believe that some of the early R1100S bikes did not come with a steering damper either. I purchased a used R1100RT arm when making my shortened a-arm with the hope that it may have been shorter already. In fact, it had the exact same dimensions as my stock R1100S arm. I had to fabricate a new steering damper bracket for it, since it did not have one.

I had read some rumors that one of these models may have a shorter arm stock, but did not find it to be the case. I even bought a used, tubular, R1150R Rockster a-arm and found it to have the same length as well. I did not use the tubular arm for several reasons that I mentioned earlier (heavier, different ball joint, more difficult to mod).

[Guest24]

Scott, I have an R11R A-arm and it has the steering damper bracket.

[motoyoyo]

Bubba, yes I have seen some of the R1100R bikes with the R1100S lower triple clamp, which would allow them to have the steering damper setup. The BMW parts fiche shows them with the RS/RT triple clamps but the early ones apparently came with the R1100S setup.

[Markus from Oz]

So this one from a GS is the same?! It looks the same but you didn't mention GS so I just want to sure...

[motoyoyo]

Markus, sorry that was an oversight on my part. Yes, the R1100/1150GS a-arms are the same as well.

[motoyoyo]

Ok, here is what I came up with as far as part numbers for the telelever trailing arms that will work on the R1100S.

Here are all the Oilhead versions and their corresponding part numbers for black trailing arms:

R1100S - 314 223 30 609
R1100R - 314 223 30 609
R850R - 314 223 30 609

R1100RT - 314 223 45 526
R1150RT - 314 223 45 526
R1100RS - 314 223 45 526
R1150RS - 314 223 45 526
R1100GS - 314 223 45 526
R1150GS - 314 223 45 526

R1150R - 314 276 55 847 (tubular steel)
Rockster - 314 276 55 847 (tubular steel)

When making my modified trailing arm I bought a used R1100RT arm and a R1150R tublar trailing arm. Both had exactly the same dimension from the pivot point to the ball joint. The tubular arm was not used due to having a different ball joint and being more difficult to accurately fixture while welding.

In conclusion, all sheet metal telelever trailing arms for all oilheads have the same dimensions and will be suitable for this modification for the R1100S. The R1100S/R1100R/R850R are most likely to have steering damper brackets and the R1100/1150 RT,GS RS are not. Therefore, if you want to look for a used trailing arm for this mod...if it looks like yours it will work.

[feisty]

I was pretty excited about this mod till I rang the local wrecker to get a price on the A arm he has on a GS he is dismantling.

$550 ($570USD) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At least I got use the classic aussie line, 'Mate, your dreaming'

[Guest24]

Originally Posted by feisty

I was pretty excited about this mod till I rang the local wrecker to get a price on the A arm he has on a GS he is dismantling.

$550 ($570USD) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At least I got use the classic aussie line, 'Mate, your dreaming'

I won't make you cry by telling you what I paid for mine. But, it's less than 20% of your Aussie cost shipping included. What's with the cost structure down there?

[feisty]

'Cost Structure?'

Not sure what you mean

I think the place I have bought a few things from recently is pretty expensive.

Heated handle bar switch $145 USD - gs paralever $135USD.

The new thin heated grips were a bargain from Germany at $70USD.

The issue comes down to freight and being able to see the item before purchase (as we all know some people can be less than accurate when using terms like good condition, as new etc)

[Markus from Oz]

Scott, thanks very much for going to the trouble of listing all the models and part numbers.

Feisty, Aussie bike wreckers are "dreamin'" with their prices for sure. I usually buy stuff from the US (it helps when the Aussie dollar is strong against the Greenback, like now!), which even with postage, works out cheaper.
By the way, you got your Aussie/US dollar exchange the wrong way round - $550 Aust = $530US. Still too bloody much!

I'm thinking now just to use the A arm off my bike for the mod. Gillie is loving the way his R11S is handling now. I'm sure you won't want to go back to stock - and if for some reason I do, well, I'll worry about an OEM A arm then.

[feisty]

Good Point Markus. I have tried the boneyard without any success for any of the parts.

I realised my exchange rate mistake too late but thought no-one would notice.... And yes the 2 year high on the exchange would be a very good thing if I had more knowledge of who in the states was selling 2nd hand parts at a fair price.

I agree with your logic on modding your own A arm. However I commute 80km a day to work and love the bike so much that being without it for a week or two would kill me.

Anyway I have only had the gs paralever on for 40 km so far - I might as well enjoy that for the time being without being too greedy.

The one thing I like about the r11 is that is tracks as beautifully as my old ducati 900s2. I really don't want to mess with that too much (long sweepers are my thing - not too crazy about the really tight twisty stuff). If I had another A arm and modded it then if I didn't like it I could pass it on to another owner easily and quickly.

[Jeffrey Gill]

Just being reading Markus and Feisty posts, had a really good ride report for all to read, pushed wrong key and its vanished into cyberspace but Kyjell-Anders has said it all. I've done over 2000ks on all types of roads and I am rapt. For any body considering this mod all I can say is forget about buying a second A arm, once modded you won't be going back to standard. BTW Feisty Sirlarti did my mod in three days so my bike was'nt off the road long. It will be the best $300 you can spend on a R1100s

[Markus from Oz]

Originally Posted by Jeffrey Gill

For any body considering this mod all I can say is forget about buying a second A arm, once modded you won't be going back to standard.

Yeah, you convinced me. No point buying a second A arm. The only reason some may argue to do that is if you ever sell your bike. But even that argument doesn't wash because the new buyer will surely be pleased with a better handling bike!!

Gillie, how long did it take you to take the A arm off the R1100S? I'll add an hour to that time cause I'm not the best when it comes to wielding the tools...

[Guest24]

I am doing the mod to keep from having to jack up the rear to get it to turn in better. I like being able to flat-foot the bike during stops. I'm to fat to be a toe-dancer. If I like it I may sell the take off to recoup some of the investment.

[EZ-RIDER]

Take off is already spoken for Bubba !