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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
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R1100s Front brakes
My search skills really suck this morning, I’ve been at it a while and I’m not finding any pertinent info. Please excuse my verbosity as I’m trying to get most of I remember down the first go around on this post.
Here is the scenario: 1999 R1100s with ABS, right at 41,000 miles, third owner, maintenance on the brakes & ABS performed mid last year, I’ve put about 3000 miles on her since purchasing in November of ’11. Pulled up to a stop yesterday afternoon and the front brake lever was a bit softer than I liked. The second pull on the lever was fine and she stopped as expected. The next stop was rather harder than usual due to an oncoming left turning granny on the cell and not looking any further than her dashboard. No problems on that stop other than I was a bit hot. Proceeded on to a 55mph loop road for about 2.5 miles and stopped for a good sized intersection. Stopped fine but the front calipers still had pressure on them and the bike would hardly move. I powered off the intersection into a pull out without getting run over to check it out. As I was getting my gear off to check it I heard a “Pffft” and the brake hose just down from the banjo fitting at the front master has split and sent a jet of brake fluid across the bike and “amazingly” the front brake released. I wiped down the brake fluid with hands full of fresh cut grass, luckily they had just cut the lot there, and proceeded on home without using the front brake. Washed her down good with fresh water when I got home and the exhaust had a chance to cool a bit. I had this happen on my ’84 R100RS and it was a defective master cylinder assembly that was replaced under warranty as she only had about 3000 miles on her when it occurred. I’d appreciate ideas or experience from the collective as I’m very comfortable with my air heads but the oil heads and ABS not so much. Another bad master? Problems with the ABS? I know I’m going to be replacing all the soft brake lines with braided stainless teflon lined ones here shortly. A good source for them and any tips on bleeding the system will be appreciated. Edit: never into ABS with any of the braking yesterday. Last edited by MSL77385; 03-24-2012 at 09:23 AM.. Reason: added details |
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03-24-2012, 09:06 AM
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Gasteropod Rider
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Are the rubber hoses original ? They tend to fail due to age rather than mileage, and from 99 they are long overdue.
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03-24-2012, 10:06 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Side note - the '84 R100RS feels noticeably smaller than the R1100s when moving them around today. |
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03-24-2012, 11:23 AM
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I see you
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 30,079
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Si non potes inimicum tuum vincere, habeas eum amicum and ride a big blue trike. "'Bipartisan' usually means that a larger-than-usual deception is being carried out." |
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03-24-2012, 06:17 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 62
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I replaced my brake lines last summer after one of the rubber hoses failed. I ordered the Speigler lines from Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing on Tuesday night, they were waiting for me on Friday after work and I installed them that night. I have the ABS II, which are easy to bleed. I bled the clutch too while I was at it.
Rubber Chicken Racing Garage: Quality Work. Classic Touch.
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Doug Minneapolis, MN '01 R1100S ABS, Öhlins, Ztechnik exhaust, Corbin "Ol' Yeller" '03 Yamaha TW200 "Skippy" |
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03-26-2012, 06:56 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
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Probably just due to the age of the lines. I was looking at Speigler, but am probably going custom from here:
Welcome to the Nickwakett Garage |
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03-27-2012, 12:33 PM
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Direct Drive Only
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sticky release mentioned!
I am with you on the airhead comfort zone and lack of skill with newer ABS systems..
but,, it sounds like either the pucks are sticking and allowing pressure to build or the master relief is malfunctioning or the abs is acting up. my opinion is that most lik ely it is in the first two mentioned. I suggest: Replace the damaged line(s) and inspect and clean up the brake assembly and replace the seals. (both) Then properly bleed and replace the fluid. test.. report back. cheers! jim, ketchikan
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Hanz - 1960 R50 Gertie - 1977 R75/7 RFAR 1 - 2004 R1100S |
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03-30-2012, 09:35 AM
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Misfit
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,008
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My money is on this last suggestion. There is a relief circuit that returns the brake fluid you pumped with the lever back to the reservoir. It's usually a tiny hole, and it can easily get clogged with the tiniest amount of schmutz. I don't recall what the inside of the Magura MC reservoir looks like, but on my CBX it looks like this:
 That larger hole passes fluid used for compressing the caliper. The smaller conical one is the return. Pluck a strand from a wire brush, hold it in a set of pliers and gently clear this, AFTER you inspect it minutely to see if you can see blockage. A rebuild of the MC might be in order if you can't flush it clean thereafter. N.
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Nils Menten - Tucson, Arizona, USA* 2001 R1100S "Light", gone but not forgotten. http://tinyurl.com/zv3tpc5 I Do Vapor Blasting! Visit restocycle.com for information. Ikon shocks for your BMW! https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/ |
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03-30-2012, 09:44 AM
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Registered User
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Quote:
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mechanicalhusbandry.com 1974 R90/6 1990 VFR750F 1999 R1100S |
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03-30-2012, 11:47 PM
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Misfit
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,008
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__________________
Nils Menten - Tucson, Arizona, USA* 2001 R1100S "Light", gone but not forgotten. http://tinyurl.com/zv3tpc5 I Do Vapor Blasting! Visit restocycle.com for information. Ikon shocks for your BMW! https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/ |
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03-31-2012, 05:05 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 4,381
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Quote:
Is it running yet?
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RBMann- The road is his workshop, and his trips are opportunities to do much needed repairs. -Bill S. * 2000 S, color-Salmon 108K+ -sold * '17 Africa Twin-totaled* '09 F650GS twin-sold * '83 GPZ 550-gone to a newbie * '75 CB400F-retired to AZ. |
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03-31-2012, 10:15 AM
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Registered User
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Thanks for checking in Rick! It's not running yet, I've been too busy to take it apart and have been riding the old viffer around. Previous owner said that he had been told during his last service that the MC would need to be replaced soon. It is just a little squishy upon first grab of the brake lever, then firms up when the pressure builds. I honestly did not notice it on my ride home, just trying to think ahead in case it gets worse. After reading this thread, I'll definitely be upgrading to some steel braided lines this spring as well.
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mechanicalhusbandry.com 1974 R90/6 1990 VFR750F 1999 R1100S |
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03-31-2012, 01:42 PM
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Registered User
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Quote:
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mechanicalhusbandry.com 1974 R90/6 1990 VFR750F 1999 R1100S |
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03-31-2012, 01:45 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 909
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There is a small compensating port (as can be seen in the above picture) immediately in front of the primary cup and a larger fill port behind the cup. If the primary cup expands slightly it will block the compensating port and each time the brake is applied and released a little more fluid will be drawn past the cup and you will end up with the system being pressurised and the brakes can start to lock on. The compensating port stops this in a normal situation. If the wrong cleaning agent is used when re-kitting or flushing, the cup will expand and block the port.
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Kevin Moore |
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03-31-2012, 04:19 PM
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R1100s
