ABS flashing light reset - screw-up - Help?

[KeithD]

ABS flashing light reset - screw-up - Help?

Well, I must have done something, but I'll be damned if I know what. I've spent the day trying to fix this and instead I likely fried something. Generated a bunch of smoke and new problems. Please check this and let me know if you have any ideas. I'm pretty frustrated.

Here is the scenario:
Late 2000 mfgr R1100S. Had a spill, very minor low side on powdery sand in a curve. Literally no damage to either the bike or to me except for scraping the left valve cover protector and maybe the handlebar end, not even sure about that. Stood it up, got on, and finished the day's riding without incident.
However, the damned ABS lights started flashing alternately and would not reset.

They (had been) beginning flashing alternately the moment the key is turned, and they do not reset when they normally would after initial drive-away.
I figured it needed a reset, which I have discovered is a pain in the ass to diy.

Anyway, there are several sets of instructions around on how to do this if you dig really deep.

I did find this post here on our Pelican forum: ABS Fault lights is there a non dealer involved reset?

If you scroll down to one of the Feb 26, 2006 entries you will find this post:

ABS fault reset works!

Well for those who care, I finally got around to trying the reset procedure and it worked!!!

-Locate the round diagnostic connector on top of the airbox

-With a wire, ground the brown/blue stripe wire (pin #2) and keep it grounded.

-Turn the ignition on

-Attach a wire to pin #21 on the ABS, ground for about 8 seconds. (you will see the lights stop blinking)

-remove the pin #21 wire from ground

-Turn off the ignition, remove the pin #2 wire from the diagnostic plug.


Well, looks good. So here is what I did:

1. Located the round diagnostic connector (mine is under the seat, not on the airbox)
2. Grounded what I believed was pin #2 of the diagnostic connector to the battery (I used the photo from here as a guide: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ABSResetProcedurev1.0.pdf).
3. Removed the ABS computer connector from the computer and attached a wire to what I believed was pin #21 on the ABS connector (I used the pic from here as a guide: ADVrider - View Single Post - ABS Power modification [note these instns are for the GS. Gotta be the same, right?]
4. Grounded what I believed to be pin #21 of the connector to the battery as well.
4. Only then did I turn the ignition on for about 8 seconds. That was enough for the grounded wire I had stuck into ABS computer connector to melt-weld to the connector and for smoke to come pouring out of the left side relay box (under the clutch lever).
5. Turned off the ignition. Damn.

Interestingly, the bike still starts and runs. Only now, instead of alternating blinking ABS dashboard lights I get only a single steady ABS light, the left one, that never goes out.
Oh, and the ABS does not complete self-test and does not function.

My question(s): What did I do, and how can I fix it?

I sure would appreciate any ideas.

[SergioK]

Well now you've gone from a calibration issue (ABS wheel sensors) to most likely a dead abs pump/brain issue.

[KeithD]

I don't think so. The ABS connector wasn't connected to the ABS computer at the time, although I have no idea about how the pump is wired into the system.

[Noblehops]

Oh man. I feel bad for you. This was a 2-minute reset to do if you or a friend had a GS911. My bike did the same thing when I bought it, so I bought the GS911, read and cleared the ABS fault and that was that.

You're going to have to skin the thing, pull the tank off, open up those relay boxes and see what burned. If you're lucky a relay took the bullet for the rest of the system.

N.

[KeithD]

Originally Posted by Noblehops

Oh man. I feel bad for you. This was a 2-minute reset to do if you or a friend had a GS911.
N.

Yeah. Apparently so. It did seem pretty straightforward from the various instructions. I simply don't know what I did wrong.

My biggest concern at the moment is that I don't know if I will be able to find "the bullet" in order to get this resolved. I'll start with the relays and go from there.

Thanks

[wswartzwel]

When you say you grounded it to the battery... are you 100% sure you were on the negative terminal?

[sgoodwin]

Sounds like the perfect start to an ABSectomy to me.

[wiggledbits]

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

Sounds like the perfect start to an ABSectomy to me.

Speaking of one of these...
Does an ABSectomy stiffen up the breaking as compared to braking with the system disengaged? For example when I leave the parking garage here at work I can't always get the clutch all the way out due to a steep down ramp with a tight turn. I often wind up at the street ABS light flashing and me clamping on the lever and standing on the pedal. I would have to assume that the removal process leaves things at a par with the factory non-ABS bikes?

[sgoodwin]

Absolutely. you remove all that extra tubing plus the abs unit. My brakes are now much tighter without any mushiness as before with the abs. From what you're saying I assume you have the power brake version which is even worse when not activated than mine was being a '99 with out linking or power assist. ABSII is the same on or off as far as braking. You could always go uphill until it activates then turn around (total pain in the a$$ but effective). Also I believe the power assist version has the speed & brake lights through the abs so a little more is involved to remove & get all systems working again.

[LaGuy]

Sorry to hear. You might need a new wiring harness. Possible you had accidentally fried the cables. I had a similar thing happen to me when replacing the batteries on my r12c. Left side cable going to the alternator went black and melted. I had replaced my alternator too.

The wire harness can be bought on ebay for $100 used...get the abs one. I had bad luck on the alternator on ebay so bought a new one from

BMW Electrical & Maintenance Parts | Moto Guzzi | Ducati Motorcycles | EuroMotoElectrics.com

instead of the dealer. They have the best price for a new unit.

Put your bike on the lift and follow the cables from your battery to the alternator and to the ground. My left side was the problem...so check it out before buying.

Good luck and hope it not too bad.

And if you do need a new wiring harness...it is easy to remove and install...just take lots of patience and take lots of pictures and mark the cables. The alternator for me was the pita.

BTW....after your bike starts, does your battery light stay on? That was the reason I had to replace the alternator...it was not charging due to the short.

[Mrmerlin]

FWIW you should inspect the wheel sensors and the gap first ,
as one of them may have gotten dinged on the initial lowside,
thus you swap in a new harness and still have the same fault