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Installation tutorial HP2/S1000 mirror brackets

Installing szazbo’s HP2 Sport / S1000 RR Mirror Brackets
Tools Required:
Vise
¼ inch drill bit and drill
3/8 drill bit
4mm allen wrench
10mm deep socket and ratchet
Blue Loctite
Flat Blade screwdriver
Single hole punch
T30 socket

I wanted to start a thread on how to install the brackets if you chose to obtain your own mirrors and just purchased the bracket kit. They are not difficult but there are some tips and tricks that make the conversion less frustrating.
1. You need a vise! Unless you bolt the szazbo bracket to a large piece of wood you will not be able to perform the conversion. Go to your local Harbor Freight and buy a vise, use it then return it if you are not convinced you need one.
2. Ok So here we go. Pull back the rubber boot and slide it up the shaft on the mirror to expose the pop rivet that needs to be drilled out. Clamp the original S1000 mirror base into a vise and take the ¼ inch drill and drill out the rivet head so you can remove the flat washer behind it. You might need a screwdriver to convince the washer to come off.

Old 08-06-2012, 10:08 PM
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Bracket install#2

3. Be careful when removing the washer, as behind it are the Belville washers which provide the spring tension. These are cone shaped and there are 5 of them. If they come out, the 1st one is installed small end up alternating small, big end with the final one small end facing out. Remove the original bracket with the pivot pin.
4. You will need to reuse the flat washer you removed. I tried various washers and could not find one that was the correct dimensions and thickness. So clamp the washer in your vice and drill it out with the ¼ drill bit and then change your bit to the 3/8 and deburr both sides of the washer.

Old 08-06-2012, 10:11 PM
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Install #3

5. You will need to use the hole punch on the rubber boot to give the mounting bolt clear access to the bracket base. Essentially just matching the punch on the opposite end of the boot. If you don’t do this, the boot is pushed out.
6. Match up the new bracket with the old one to make sure that you get the correct side. Take some lithium grease or equivalent and fill the detent pockets on the szazbo braket and spread it around the flat surface adjacent to the pockets.
7. Take the original mirrors mounting screws and screw them into the szazbo base so you have a way to hold the base into the vise. Clamp the base into the vice.




Old 08-06-2012, 10:24 PM
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Install #4

8. Place the 6X25 button head allen through the original drilled out flat washer and put some blue Loctite liberally on the end of the bolt. Install the bolt/washer through the new mirror from the Belville washer side.
9. Take the mirror/ bolt and slide the bolt through the base and install the 6mm flat washer and start the 6mm lock nut.


Old 08-06-2012, 10:27 PM
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Install #5

10. Use a 10mm deep socket and hand tighten using just the socket on the nut. Rotate the mirror forwards and backwards a time or two. What you are doing is matching the male and female detents. If you tighten it too much you will not be able rotate the mirror. There will be considerable effort required to move the mirror the 1st time.
11. This is where the tricky part begins. It is essential to tighten the nut slowly, stopping every ½ turn or so and rotating the mirror until final nut adjustment is obtained. So tighten, rotate the mirror and repeat. Again, if you tighten it too tight, the mirror will not rotate and you will pull it out of the vice.
12. Final nut position is where there is about ½ to ¾ of a thread showing past the end of the nut.
13. Work the rubber boot into position over the mount. Don’t pull too hard as it can be torn and that would ruin the mirror. I used a plastic bicycle tire spoon to help.



Old 08-06-2012, 10:30 PM
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Install Final Chapter

14. Ok ready to bolt them onto your HP2 Sport! Take the 2 6X20 button heads and 6mm fender washers and insert them through the black plastic ABS backing plate and through the fairing. Line up the mirror and start the screws and tighten evenly. I like to have final torque on the rear screw 1st.
15. Go out and ride now and now you can see who is sneaking up from behind! The fairing on the Sport is not supported like the S1000 is so there is some engine related vibration, but the stock mirrors do the same thing.
16. So there you go, I don’t think that I forgot anything. If you have any questions email me @ eric.axford@gmail.com
This has been a long project and I am glad I am on the home stretch. I hope that this is what you have been looking for and please give me some feedback!
Old 08-06-2012, 10:35 PM
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Eric, I mounted up the mirrors and got out for a ride today. As has been mentioned before these are probably what should have come on the bike in the first place, because I can actually see behind me without letting go of the bar and lifting my elbow. They bolt up easy just like the stockers, and they are BMW sportbike mirrors so they look OEM. I do have a comment though.

the fairing is a continuous compound curve, even where the mirror bolts up. The backside of the stock mirror is "cupped" to accomodate this and has a perfect installed finish as a result. The backside of your bracket is flat, and when mounted up has a gap around the perimeter of the baseplate. It may seem like nit-picking, and this isn't any criticism of you, but if you were going to do a 2nd generation you might want to figure out how to address that. I also wonder about sandwiching the carbon fairing with its compound curves between 2 flat plates. I guess its a good thing the lower one is plastic. They are staying on the bike though!


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Old 08-12-2012, 02:11 PM
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I got my mirrors only yesterday thanks to Canadian customs and installed them this morning.

Here's a couple of shots with the original on one side and the S1000RR mirror on the other side. Quite dramatic improvement.

I have the same gap on mine as described by Shreddr but I think it is only cosmetic as the original mirror mounting is also flat front to back. The tail end of the S1000RR mounting plate is longer than the original and that's what create the gap as the fairing curves away from it.

I tried to measure the torque on the original screws and came up with about 3.5n-m. Need a 1/4'' drive torque to come down that low but as anyone with a carbon framed bicycle, I've got that in my toolbox.

Thanks Szazbo for making the kit!





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Old 08-15-2012, 07:47 AM
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Question to all...... re. the gap between the boot and the fairing.

Could this be reduced/eliminated by cutting open a large rubber o-ring and placing it inside the rubber boot between the boot and the Al-bracket for the length needed to "close the gap"? I'm trying to think of simple solutions.

The other, less desirable, would be to use some flexible black caulk??
Old 08-19-2012, 06:19 AM
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It may be as simple as just relieving he underside of the base like the stocker, so only the perimeter comes in contact.
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:35 AM
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HP2 Mirrors

I carefully measured the curve and did relieve a test base plate to match that curve. It is about .020 That did nothing, still had the same result. You cannot do anything with the boot as it is part of the mirror and cannot be altered. Bolting a plain bracket to the fairing finger tight, it was flush. So I am thinking that the problem is a volume problem inside the boot with the plate. Next week I will be experimenting with reducing the plates length and the volume by angling the ends. The rear portion of the boot tapers down thinner than the plate. The original S1000 plate is much shorter due to the bolt pattern on that bike. The HP2 as a lot wider pattern and that is why the plate is 3 inches. Put a 3 inch plate in a boot that originally housed a 2 inch plate and we are running out of room.
So the original mirror is completey flat with a soft spot in its center (gasket) and mirror does not extend very much beyond its mounting screws. Matching the curve on a test piece didn't solve anything. New plate is up against the forward end of the boot and also the rear tapered section that has the slight lift. Rear of boot is subtantially beyond the rear mounting screw.
Will try shortening the plate as much as possible (maybe 6-8mm) to still keep enough support around the mounting holes and taper the ends this week and see what that brings.
Like Shreddr says, it is really nice to have the mirrors and this is a minor issue, but I will continue to pursue a solution if it is possible.
Old 08-19-2012, 06:02 PM
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I am not getting one of these mirrors but thought I'd put in my 0.02 anyway.

Szazbo mentioned the soft spot (gasket) which I think is exacerbating the problem. That portion of the boot between the mounting plate and fairing is causing the boot to extrude and push the boot out and up at the edges. Careful trimming of the boot to limit how much is trapped may help some but probably not enough to eliminate the effect.
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:58 AM
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Those mirrors are a must have to anyone using the HP2 in traffic.

The difference is night and day compared to the originals which are at their best once removed and tucked away in a box. The gap is a minor cosmetic issue that nobody except us notice.
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:29 AM
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here is mine


Old 08-25-2012, 08:41 PM
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the full bike


Old 08-25-2012, 08:44 PM
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A while back,szazbo sent me the prototype mirror mounts and I promised to do a wright up once I had them mounted.

Well, my apologies to szazbo for taking so long!

Here are my observations.......

This adaptor for the S1000RR mirror is exactly what the HP2 Sport needs......it removes the horrible stock mirror, lets you use a BMW S1000RR mirror and is one very finely crafted piece of kit!

If you have not already done so........order this set up as it will help complete the motorcycle closer to what it should have been in the first place!

Now I see most of the install has been posted, so the one thing I will add that has not been discussed is the orientation of the Belleville washers.

Here is a photo of how they are installed....the up/down label is in reference to the centre of the washer.....keep them this way and all will be fine.........



This is an easy install. The only critical part is getting the tension correct on the nut/bolt for the Belleville washers.
Don't forget the blue locktite!

Another tip is to work the breakaway a couple of times to help "break in" the breakaway.

Thanks again to szazbo for making a fine product and allowing me to be a small part of this.

Cheers
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:04 PM
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