Preventive Maintenance

[kroberts]

Sorry to keep pestering. I need some advice.

My bike is not going to be on the road for a while. It was neglected a tad I think, and needs some TLC. Without a maintenance history, I have to assume that everything on the bike is 13 years old. I'm going to change a bunch of stuff. Aside from the fluids and filters, here is what I am planning...

Plugs, wires, coil
Fuel pump, filter, internal hoses, and I think there's a strainer in there too
Fuel pressure regulator and distribution ass'y
Get the injectors cleaned
Alternator belt
Hall effect sensor (been reading a LOT about that thing)
Brake pads, fluid. Rotors actually look pretty good (thankfully)

I am hoping that the high-dollar components like the alternator and clutch will last a while.

Thoughts, comments?

Tires are on the short list too. I ordered an Abba stand so tires will have to wait until it arrives. Do you guys buy your tires online or locally? The OEM tire sizes were (f) 120/70-17 and (r) 170/60-17 right?

I've ordered from Max BMW already, their ETK is great. I've discovered a site called Euro Motoelectrics. They appear to have some excellent prices. If any of you want to share any favorite sources/sites, please feel free.

I also ordered a set of those Barbacks. They look like an excellent idea.


TIA

[brentw1]

don't waste the money changing things that are merely old.
if it works don't change it.
do the last service schedule based on the mileage or the next if it is close.
replace the tires if they are more than 2-3 years old or not sticky.
Inspect the plugs and air filters I have been using bosch 441x plugs for the mains, they work better.
change the oil and filter.
if you have a servo abs change the brake fluid, you will need the adapter.
only change the brake pads if they are worn or you want something with more grip.
Ive done probably 15 oil heads and have yet to have a bad leaking fuel line or pressure regulator.
and the fuel pump failures don't seem to relate to age or miles. my first pump failure was
on my new less than one year old r1100rt and I have had bikes with over 100k on the original pump.
Change the clutch fluid.
never had a bad alternator. clutches fail at 20k miles if ridded by a moron or 100k plus if ridden sanely.
you should check the final drive play and rear trailing arm pivot bearings. they do consistently wear out. but not from age, just from use.
check the front wheel bearings, check the rims for bends or dents.
I would torque all of the frame fasteners, shock fasteners, and front suspension having had a new frame. check the side stand fastener. Oil the locks.
save your money for farkles and tires.

[PFFOG]

what bret said.

I would do O&F, fuel filter (just for a base line), inspect or replace air filter, plugs, brake flush. Just check the wear stuff and ride it.

[wswartzwel]

Brake lines are common failure items on these bikes as they age. Valve stems on the wheels get gummy and come apart.

[kroberts]

My bike had ants. Seriously, there were ants living in the left hand grip, crawling all over the switch enclosure. I disturbed them when I removed the clip-on. Little tiny things.

They're dead now.

Brentw, you said I should get the "adapter". Do you mean this?

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/abs3_filling_adapter.pdf

[bikerfish1100]

save your coinfor when things have broken.

pretty much what everyone else has said.

i'm thinking that your bike is a pre-2003, based on your skinny rear tire. (that's a hint to either add specifics to your profile, or state it in your posts. that stuff matters).
If i'm assuming correctly, you don't need to worry about an adapter for a fluid change, as you don't have the servo-assisted brakes. am I correct?

speed bleeder to replace the right front grub screw on the caliper along with it's adapter. you'll remove that entire assembly and replace it. use heat to get it off.

[kroberts]

My bike is a 2000 R1100S, 12/99 build date and has ABS. My insurance receipt says its an R1100SA, I assume the "A" means ABS? The back tire in place now is a 180-55/17. I was just asking what the original size was, sorry.

I forgot about brake hoses. Thanks.

I appreciate all the info.

Add: So the correct Sppedbleeder for BMWs is the 1010S, correct. I'll need 3. One for the front right brake, one for the rear brake, and one for the clutch?

The clutch bleeder is that doohickey wrapped in a rubber sleeve and zip-tied to the lower rear frame brace, below the hot-suit plug?

[flatbutt]

I strongly recommend braided stainless for the brake lines. Does the rear wheel have a hub plug? I recommend you get one of those too. And don't forget to check the headlight fluid.

[RIQUE]

Originally Posted by PFFOG

what bret said.

I would do O&F, fuel filter (just for a base line), inspect or replace air filter, plugs, brake flush. Just check the wear stuff and ride it.

Change the fuel filter....

Oh my that is a fun one. A solid weekend, knuckle buster, finger bender, skin scraper
four word cussing MF Job.!

[bikerfish1100]

stock tire was either 170/60 or 180/55 depending upon wheel size, 5" or 5.5", respectively. if a 180 is mounted, you likely have the larger wheel. few are dumb enough to spoon the fatter tire onto the skinnier wheel, but there are no limits to stupidity, so... ???

would certainly get one for each front as replacements, and one to use on clutch (yes, your stated location for that is correct). that is mostly due to inconvenience of doing a brake bleed solo. for rear, the pedal is right there, as is the m/c for refilling, so you can just do the traditional method. or purchase, your call.

yeah, A is ABS. that means you have the larger 700W alternator, as well. no servo brake system until 2003.

[kroberts]

Is "hub plug" a joke?

Is that like sending the new guy out for 150 feet of flight line and 20 gallons of prop wash?

[mendoje]

No Joke!

That open hole in the center of the rear hub will allow water in enough to corrode the wheel stuck to the hub. I live in Southern California, I never ride in the rain. Just hosing the bike off once in a while resulted in a huge amount of corrosion in there.

[bikerfish1100]

Originally Posted by RIQUE

Change the fuel filter....

Oh my that is a fun one. A solid weekend, knuckle buster, finger bender, skin scraper
four word cussing MF Job.!

you're doing it wrong. it takes about 2 hours, if you're really slow and meticulous. "unscrew" the fuel pump from the tank. not hard at all. just mildy annoying.

[bikerfish1100]

Originally Posted by mendoje

No Joke!

That open hole in the center of the rear hub will allow water in enough to corrode the wheel stuck to the hub. I live in Southern California, I never ride in the rain. Just hosing the bike off once in a while resulted in a huge amount of corrosion in there.

or... not so much. unless you park your bike outside, it shouldn't really be that much of an issue.

[kroberts]

Originally Posted by mendoje

No Joke!

That open hole in the center of the rear hub will allow water in enough to corrode the wheel stuck to the hub. I live in Southern California, I never ride in the rain. Just hosing the bike off once in a while resulted in a huge amount of corrosion in there.

Well I'll be damned! There's a hole in the middle of my hub

I'll bite. Where do I find a hub plug? I spent 450 bucks on silly **** today, what's another $20.

[brentw1]

yea you need the adapter only for servo abs which you shouldn't have.
and beemer bone yard has them already assembled.
you should have the older non servo abs.
I had ants in a super hawk that had been parked for 6 years.
and if you have a 180 rear on a 5.00 rim replace it.

[JimMoore]

wires, coil No need. They'll last 100K miles.

Fuel pump, filter, internal hoses, and I think there's a strainer in there too. Filter and lines, yes. The other stuff, no. A fuel pump failure is very rare. Unicorn-rare.

Fuel pressure regulator and distribution ass'y. You have to split the bike in half to get to these. I might redo the fuel lines if I was in that position.

Get the injectors cleaned. I've never known that to be a problem

Alternator belt. Good idea.

Hall effect sensor (been reading a LOT about that thing). You have an updated HES. No need to mess with it.

Brake pads, fluid. Rotors actually look pretty good (thankfully). Consider some SS brake lines. Tom Cutter at the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage is a Spiegler dealer, an R1100S owner, and a long-time BMW mech.

[kroberts]

Originally Posted by brentw1

...and if you have a 180 rear on a 5.00 rim replace it.

My bike has a 5.5" rear wheel. I verified this, it's cast on one of the spokes.

I took the belt cover off the front of the engine case yesterday, it's really clean under there.

[Trex]

The cheapest rear hub plug is the Volkswagen lug nut cover. Buy at a VW dealer - a couple of bucks. Wrap some tape around it ( I think I used bicycle handlebar tape) to slightly increase the outside diameter. If you size it right, it will stay put.

Also, while you're taking out the air filter, reach down with some paper towels or a rag and mop up some of the oil that is on the bottom of the air filter housing. The engine breather dumps oil into the bottom of the AF housing so, it can collect down there. Note that there are drain plugs on the outside of the AF housing to drain the oil out while doing routine maintenance.

Figure out what works out best for you in regard to small allen wrenches (4 mm?) needed to get to the body work screws behind the BMW roundel and inward by the bottom of the headlight opening. I use a small (1/4") ratchet with a long allen socket. And a flashlight. Some just use a zip-tie by the roundel. Some will install quick disconnects for the wires to the front turn signals, I just pull the units out. Make sure you put them back in before you button up the bodywork!

Another long allen socket to get is one to fit the bolts where the rear header meets the Y pipe / cat. Is it 6mm? Make sure the gasket is in place if you have the headers disconnected.

I think it is a general consensus here that synthetic in the transmission and rear are preferred. I notice the difference. You'll find a lively discussion of preferred motor oil if you search.

There is a special BMW tool for tensioning the alt belt. I just use a big, loooong screwdriver to add tension. On my 2004 1100S I had to fiddle a bit with the oil line clamp (on the left) that has to be aligned when the cover gets put back on.

[RBMann]

Originally Posted by kroberts

Well I'll be damned! There's a hole in the middle of my hub

I'll bite. Where do I find a hub plug? I spent 450 bucks on silly **** today, what's another $20.

I used a round rubber crutch tip from Home Depot. I don't remember the size but they come in a two-pack. They are a little long but can be cut down.