Ignition Switch Problem

[ricky racer]

Okay, my problem is my '99 R1100S has a loose connection in my ignition switch. It has been an intermittent problem but is now faulting enough that I have been able to track down where the problem is.
According to my manual, I have to drill out the "non-removable screw" to disconnect the switches from the actuator. Is that correct or do you experts have a way to get around that? Once I remove the electrical switch from the unit, can it be taken apart and repaired or does it need to be replaced? I'm sure that if I can get it apart I can repair it. I guess my concern is having access to the connections as opposed to having the thing sealed and non-reparable

Thanks for the help guys,

Rick

[tjs]

On the right side bottom barrel that the switch goes into, you should see a small hole that has paint on it. Dig the paint out and there will be a small set screw. Take out that screw. (Don't loose it) The bottom switch will come out. Jewelers screw driver or screwdriver that's ground down should take it out. tjs

[ricky racer]

Thanks tjs. I'll give that a try in the morning.

[brentw1]

I have repaired these pretty simple usually just dirty

[RBMann]

A few R1100Ss had the wires breaking where they enter the switch. Zip-tied mine after the repair to cut down on the flexing.

[ricky racer]

Well, I've had mine apart so many times that I can't count and still can't get it to work correctly. I'm looking for a replacement for it. I've sent out numerous inquires but with it being a holiday weekend, it will be Tuesday before I get any responses. Can anyone here help me out with a used switch? I can't stand not riding my S.

[ricky racer]

I've found 2 on E-Bay. Both claim to be for a R1100 - R1150 but they are 2 different part numbers. They both look correct. I've looked for the switch on different website microfiche and have not been able to find the switch listed. The part numbers shown on E-Bay are:
61 32 2 306 361
61 32 2 306 103
Which one do I need for my 1999 R1100S?

[tjs]

61-32-2-306-361. tjs

[brentw1]

but be careful with ebay sellers putting up the wrong number.
check the connector is the same.
I might have one in my collection of bits if you cant find one.
did you clean the contacts in the bottom of the switch?
and the wipers on the rotating part.
that usually sorts it out.

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by tjs

On the right side bottom barrel that the switch goes into, you should see a small hole that has paint on it. Dig the paint out and there will be a small set screw. Take out that screw. (Don't loose it) The bottom switch will come out. Jewelers screw driver or screwdriver that's ground down should take it out. tjs

Ricky, place a large towel beneath the work space. This way when you drop the set screw it won't go ptt-thwing! off into never never land.

[ricky racer]

Originally Posted by flatbutt

Ricky, place a large towel beneath the work space. This way when you drop the set screw it won't go ptt-thwing! off into never never land.

Sure now you tell me. I didn't loose the set screw but did loose one of the little coil springs after taking the switch apart for about the 100th time. FYI, next time you loose one of those springs, the spring from inside a Schrader valve is the correct diameter and you can cut it to length.

tsj, what is the difference between the 103 & 361?

[tjs]

103 goes on R1100 and R1150 GS, GSA. Though for the 103 you can buy the set screw. IF you want to find what I found go to Max BMW online micro-fiche. R11S or what ever, Group 51. tjs

[bruincounselor]

Update: Motorworks UK sells the ignition switch grub screw for 1.25 and has the electrical ignition switch in stock too.

DAMHIK