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dismantle the handlebar

What's the best way to remove the handlebar from the front frame ? The only nut under the big BMW logo, neither tightens or loosens when a wrench is used.

Essentially, try to free the front frame of everything.

Old 12-27-2013, 05:03 PM
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What bike? Handlebars are on the fork tubes not on any frame of 1100 & 1200s. Some pics would help explain what you're trying to do.
Old 12-27-2013, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matvrix View Post
What's the best way to remove the handlebar from the front frame ? The only nut under the big BMW logo, neither tightens or loosens when a wrench is used.

Essentially, try to free the front frame of everything.
If you are working on an R1200S you need to heat the nut to loosen the lock tight, insert an allen driver into the ball joint and then hold the large nut while turning the allen.

If you are working on a different machine things may be different.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:32 PM
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It's a R1100s. Having to remove the front frame off of it, the nut is right underneath the BMW logo.
Old 12-27-2013, 05:57 PM
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Follow Kpolitos instructions. You heat the nut to +200 degrees… it has some wicked loctitie on it. then you put an allen wrench in the center of the bolt and simultaneously loosen the nut.

Some pictures in This Thread
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Last edited by wswartzwel; 12-27-2013 at 06:56 PM..
Old 12-27-2013, 06:54 PM
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the procedure is quite similar to juggling while riding a unicycle, blindfolded in a skateboard park.

i watched motoyoyo scott do the removal process one time. made it look easy. then i saw jeff williams try it. same day, same tools, same driveway.
almost made him cry.

the good news is....you'll never get it off any other way than the system shown in the triple clamp thread linked above.
and you'll probably sacrifice at least one tool to the Installation Gods in the process.
yet you'll have a very special merit badge that few have earned.

bonus points if you casually mention removing it to the guys back in the bmw shop. if you time it right, they'll buy you something from the roach coach because they're so impressed.

"one of us....he's one of us" you'll hear them chant quietly.
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'04 R1100s. I changed a couple o' things.
Old 12-28-2013, 05:52 AM
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if you really want to remove the handlebar and not top clamp like everyone else has instructed you on how to do, all you need to do is loosen the top clamp pinch bolts (triple clamp and handlebar clamp), slide the fork tube down, remove the bolt holding the handlebar clamp to the triple clamp (underside of the triple clamp) and it comes right off. Many riders like to relocate the handlebar clamp to above the triple clamp for a more comfortable riding position.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:34 AM
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he has to remove the top clamp to replace the upper frame piece, which is in his other thread.
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:44 PM
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I saw that after the fact. He should pull the subframe first then take the clamp off.
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Old 12-28-2013, 02:20 PM
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The re-torquing procedure is not obvious. Since it is a crucial safety piece, maybe you could use the help of a friend that knows, or a professional.

Clymer manual has a complete walk-through for all the steps involved in changing the front frame. I'd advise that you at least get a copy for yourself. For a big job like this the expense is quickly justified.

The upper fork brace is assembled with loctite 2701 (red), thighten to 130NM. It requires a special tool to at the same time tighten and keep the allen wrench in there. Cuting open a window into a 21mm (from memory, check) socket is the easier way to create that specialty tool.
Old 12-28-2013, 05:21 PM
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yea I have torqued several of these with a normal socket and the pin part seems
to hold well enough to reach final torque specs without spinning.
of course you may have a different experience.
Old 12-28-2013, 05:42 PM
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oh as a addendum I first tighten them to death with a box end holding the pin with
a allen, then final torque with a digital wrench and socket. you don't want to
distort the rubber boot on the top, also best done with the head straight forward for the
same reason.
Old 12-28-2013, 05:47 PM
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Sorry, I haven't been clear. The idea is to replace/fix the frame. So, the top clamp has to be removed. This is the sole purpose of this exercise.
Sorry, I don't have a manual to look up. Perhaps, that's ought be the best course of action.

So, if I understand this correct : front wheel and forks have to be removed from the clamp; to release the frame ? Later, find tools to remove the clamp from the frame ?
Old 12-28-2013, 10:47 PM
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This is the bottom view of the frame with the broken nib at the front. I was hoping, if this nut is removed, the frame would break away from the handlebars, clamp, cluster and such.


This shows the frame broken off the steering column. I really hope there is a way to keep the clamp and the forks unfettered.
Old 12-28-2013, 10:55 PM
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Are you just replacing the frame element because the steering lock tab is broken off? Seems like a lot of work for an attribute that sees little real use other than pushing the bike around in the garage.
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:02 AM
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No s hit, I wouldn't even consider all that trouble for a steering lock, Just buy a disc lock or something similar (large pissed off dog maybe). Anyone wanting to steal your bike would snap that off in a heartbeat anyway.
Old 12-29-2013, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoodwin View Post
No s hit, I wouldn't even consider all that trouble for a steering lock, Just buy a disc lock or something similar (large pissed off dog maybe). Anyone wanting to steal your bike would snap that off in a heartbeat anyway.
DISK LOCK?

No!!!

Classic mistake. The front fender is $600 if you were to replace new. Sure you can try and find a nice used one, but who knows the condition.
Do you know how many I've seen with damage from people forgetting the disk lock? Several.

BMW's are among the least stolen bikes out there. Just have comprehensive insurance...
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:29 AM
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That's why you get one with the strap that goes up to the bars so you don't take off with it locked on. Personally I wouldn't use one either but it sure beats dismantling half your bike for a piece that is so easy to break, if you just gotta lock it somehow.
Old 12-29-2013, 07:42 AM
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he has a broken fairing stay mount, which apparently is commonly broken in a spill.
I have one in the same state in my junk parts bin. his steering lock is on the top
of the casting and looks ok. but in general it is good to actually have the fairing attached
to the bike.
Old 12-29-2013, 07:49 AM
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to answer the question, you shouldn't have to remove the forks or clamp
there should be enough space to slide it up. there are no springs in the upper
tubes and they will move freely if they are not damaged.

Old 12-29-2013, 07:52 AM
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