R1200s Ohlins ride height adjustment

[Desmodic]

The Ohlins rear shock on my 1200s has a ride height adjuster, but it is impossible to use with the shock in place, even after removing the rear wheel, as the mounting is recessed into the swingarm, which prevents access to the adjustment nuts. I guess I'll have to detach the shock from the swing arm to make adjustment. Does anyone know the tightening torque for the shock mountings?
If anyone has a better idea of how to approach this I'd be very grateful.

[Kieran R1100S]

I did it and you have to take the shock out. Also you will note that the incruments of ajustment is at 6mm. I adjusted mine to 12mm and after putting it all back can not notice a difference. I also coupled it with a 190/55 profile tyre and still can't notice any difference in turn in. The bike stands pretty tall at the seat. I think you will get a better result from removing the steering damper. I think that is what's retarding it from quick steering! I can't remember the torque setting.

[Brian1200s]

You don't have to remove the shock. Spray both the adjusting nuts with WD40, then use the 3/4 opening wrench that came with the tool kit. Firstly unlock the locking nut (you do need to hold the shock body initially as you loosen the bolts, but afterwards its easy) and then adjust the other nut. The 3/4 wrench allows you to lift the wrench off the shaft and then relocate it to turn the nut. Hope this helps

[roger albert]

Agreed, no need to remove the shock if my memory from the last 12S setup I did serves.

Man, unless the steering damper is damaged, it shouldn't be able to block out a 12mm height's effect on handling. 12mm has a MASSIVE affect on turn-in/agility/stability that can't blocked by any properly functioning damper. Yes, a damper can dull/dampen it, but turn-in is, in all but the very hardest/emergency scenario, a slow speed, nil-damper effect situation. Tell your damper to stop the chicanery

[Joe the Viking]

I removed the wheel but not the shock when i did my R12S, it works just like Brian says. And i agree that 12mm should make a massive change, mine went from R1100S "point-and-shoot" slow to "flick-it-like-an-actual-spors-bike" quick.

[Kieran R1100S]

I changed the torque arm on my R1100S to a GS arm which was smaller and notice a huge difference to the bike turning in. I removed the shock from my R1200S because I couldn't see how it could be adjusted on the bike. I adjusted the ride hight to 12mm and like I said before it hasn't made a noticeable difference to me. I even went with a higher profile tyre to see if that would help but still no noticeable difference to me. Now what should be and what is, is 2 different things.

[Desmodic]

Thanks all, I'll try your various suggestions

[Desmodic]

Now I feel really stupid. The spanner in the tool kit - see pic - slots around the shaft of the dampers strut and slides up around the adjustment nuts. Easy. I didn't have to remove the shock, simply put the bike on a paddock stand and removed the rear wheel and the plastic splash guard on the shock.
I guess the moral of this is RTFM!
Thanks again for your help.

[roger albert]

Haven't seen that wrench in the kits.
Would be handy.
Anyone else?

[jef12s]

I got that one in my toolkit with the bike.

[roger albert]

Thanks for the info. I could use that trackside on certain Elkas and Öhlins.
Will have to see if BMW has them available as a separate item, or if I have to track down a different Heyco source.
Thanks again.

[kocook]

Don't put a shorter torque arm on a R1200S. If you are looking for more nimble handling, call Chris at San Jose BMW and order the adjustable torque he developed for his R1200S & HP2 Sport race bikes. About 6mm of extra length gives my R1200S very light and neutral steering. Completely different machine now. Wow, is an understatement!

[roger albert]

Of course not. Obviously a 12 needs a longer arm vs shorter for an 11, but I don't think anyone was advocating a shorter arm on a 12 (but if I'm wrong, then good catch, Kent - that would be a horrible move)

[kocook]

Originally Posted by roger albert

Of course not. Obviously a 12 needs a longer arm vs shorter for an 11, but I don't think anyone was advocating a shorter arm on a 12 (but if I'm wrong, then good catch, Kent - that would be a horrible move)

Read Kieran's comment about putting a GS torque arm on his R1100S too quickly.

Kieran,

To me, it looks like the rear ride height is not really increasing when you change the shock's length. What you add in shock length is taken away from ride height by the stock torque arm. You have to increase the length of the torque arm. BTW, with the adjustable torque arm you do not need to change the shock length if you stay within the 5mm to 10mm increase range Chris H. gave me.

As for switching from 50 to 55 profile on your 190 rear, that would increase rear ride height by about 4 mm. That may not be enough to notice. [correction] Ride would have changed by about 9mm and that should have made a diff. You sir, have a mystery.

[roger albert]

It almost has to be a perception issue. You just CAN'T add 4, much less 12 mm of rideheight, and not get an effect. The effect is there, being physics based, whether a given rider is attuned enough to feel it or not. 4mm is pretty easy to feel. 12 impossible to miss, or so I'd have thought previously. I've never changed a bike more than 10mm without the owner proclaiming some "night and day difference' or some such. Heck, 12mm is enough to move some bikes from pushing to wagging. It's a VERY big change.

[Kieran R1100S]

Originally Posted by Desmodic

Now I feel really stupid. The spanner in the tool kit - see pic - slots around the shaft of the dampers strut and slides up around the adjustment nuts. Easy. I didn't have to remove the shock, simply put the bike on a paddock stand and removed the rear wheel and the plastic splash guard on the shock.
I guess the moral of this is RTFM!
Thanks again for your help.

Didn't get that in my kit. If I had I wouldn't have removed the shock.
I reckon what kokook has mentioned is probably the problem, that the torque arm is inhibiting it, not allowing for much change. Roger is wright that 12mm should have made a big difference but it hasn't. Will look at the adjustable arm.

[Joe the Viking]

Originally Posted by kocook

To me, it looks like the rear ride height is not really increasing when you change the shock's length. What you add in shock length is taken away from ride height by the stock torque arm.

The action of the torque arm does slightly compensate for lengthening the shock but it still makes a BIG difference in ride height and handling. On my old R12S i went from easily getting both my feet solidly planted on the ground to just barely getting the toes of both feet down. BIG difference.

I'll be adjusting my shock length in the next few days so I can do some measurements on it to get the actual figures.

[Joe the Viking]

BTW: My -06 R12S came with the wrench, i think the later ones didn't. I looked up the partno on www.realoem.com for you: 71117699986

[bugslayer]

Originally Posted by Kieran R1100S

Didn't get that in my kit. If I had I wouldn't have removed the shock.

That wrench (aka spanner), along with a couple other shock specific ones, were additions to the stock tool kit that came with the Ohlins upgrade with my bike.

[IainG]

I increased the ride height on mine a couple of days ago, but had to remove the shock bolt so I could swing it out to gain access to the adjusters - no suitable tool in my '07 toolkit.

I stupidly didn't take any measurements, but wound it down a good bit and what a difference! It shakes its head a bit more on the power over bumps, but nothing to worry about, however it now steers much more like I wanted it to