Newbie, question about bike for sale

[vtguy]

Hello
New BMW owner, hopefully. Landed on the R1100S as a model that appeals to me.
Found a 2002 model that is looking good with less than 10 k on the clock.
Only ridden 1 bmw in my moto life, but like the idea of the suspension and shaft drive and the reliability. My previous bike was an Aprilia Falco which, so far, is my all time favorite bike.
Seller has quoted me 5 K as a selling price with bags and cylinder protectors.
Any thoughts on this price? Price would include delivering from NY to VT.
And I know comparing the Falco to this bike is not something one would usually do, but for thrashing the twisties, should I be happy?
Thanks in advance.
:cheers:
Sean

[Tirefriar]

The best way to describe R11S is that this is the bike that does everything good but nothing great in particular. Coming off a Falco you will definitely feel the weight difference and also the lack of acceleration compared to Falco. With an R11S you are looking at approximately 100 lb more with 20 hp less. Its a good all around sport touring bike but I have not experienced the Falco so I can't give you a meaningful compare. I am actually looking to get into the Ape camp with an acquisition of a Tuono, first or second gen but definitely Rotax powered.

The market for R11S bikes is not as strong as it was in recent years. Mileage is important but so is the overall condition of the bike. 2002 R11S with the condition reflecting low mileage should be $5k tops, closer to $4 actually. If you subtract the delivery charge you will be closer to that number. Look for service records, yada yada. Like Aprilia, these are virtually bullet proof if maintained.

[JimMoore]

that seems a little steep to me, by about a grand.

[vtguy]

Thanks for confirming my opinion. I was thinking a bit overpriced for model and year based on other bikes I have seen. Tirefriar, you will absolutely love the Rotax. The Falco was my favorite bike that I have owned. Wish I never got rid of it, but I fell for a Futura because of the hard bags. That bike let me down with electrical problems.

[Lowndes]

Hey, VTguy,

I bought a '99 R1100S a year ago with 12k, Corbin seats (2), Corbin saddlebags. I paid 4700, but there is a story behind that. It was really worth maybe 42-4400. BUT...I really like this bike and this color.

It has been a steep learning curve. These engines/trans have much more in common with the 1150 series. There is the dreaded clutch spline issue that afflicted some of this period. I think yours is OK, not affected by this. Mine is OK. The left side cam chain tensioner is a bulletin replacement if it has not been done.

You might want to update some of the electricals like LED headlight and tail/brake bulbs. The OEM's are dim and yellow. If you go to an AGM type battery (Westco, Odyssey, etc) you might consider upgrading the voltage regulator to 14.7 V to give it a proper charge (help prevent sulfation).

If you still have the OEM black rubber brake lines, you WILL (not maybe) need to replace those. DOT4 eats them from the inside. This is for ALL bikes this age. Spiegler makes very good hoses and a replacement kit for this bike is/was $210 on Amazon, including the clutch line. I found out when the front wheel locked up one-day last fall.

I put Michelin PR4 tires on it very soon after getting it. It has 18,687 miles now and still have tread. Last weekend we rode 800+ miles thru NC, TN, VA, including most of the BRP - 50% in the RAIN. Pouring rain. These tires stick wet or dry and the bike handles extremely well with them. Depending on your skillset, you may consider upgrading the shocks (one each end), too.

The seals in the engine, tranny, and FD were not designed for synthetic oil in '99. They will weep syn oil. '02 might be OK.

The insulation on the wiring to the HES failed (fell off) and left me stranded a couple of months back. Not sure if '02 had that issue.

You should drill a weep hole for the hydraulic clutch slave cyl (on the rear of the tranny). When the slave cyl (or the rear input shaft seal) leaks, the only way out is along the clutch rod thru the hollow input shaft to the clutch. Then it's time for a new clutch. AMHIK.

This sounds like a "scare list" but ANY machine from that period has some age related issues and maybe a "design oversight" or two. None of these are serious except the clutch splines and that can be checked IF '02 is susceptible.

I'd get it again, same price, even after going thru all this, if that says anything.

Last week on the BRP:



This past January:

[SeabeckS]

Price does seem a tad high, even with the low miles. I sold my '04 last week for $4500. It has the bags, some other ancillary acc, 21k on the clock, but less than 1000 miles since a full (24k) service, new tires, stainless brake lines, new battery, etc, etc. The brake upgrade included flush/fill of the ABS.

[Tirefriar]

Originally Posted by SeabeckS

Price does seem a tad high, even with the low miles. I sold my '04 last week for $4500. It has the bags, some other ancillary acc, 21k on the clock, but less than 1000 miles since a full (24k) service, new tires, stainless brake lines, new battery, etc, etc. The brake upgrade included flush/fill of the ABS.

Your bike would have been perfect for him, but I fear we may have scared him off.

There are many other cool bikes I want to own and ride but only have so much space and $$. Frankly, part of me wishes I never got the R11S, because I know that I will be kicking myself in the ass mighty hard if I'll ever sell it.

[buzzerbee]

Actually, I disagree with some here. When you consider the shipping cost as part of the five grand you're actually paying market value or close to it for a low mileage R1100S. I have owned and currently own many Beemers and the R1100S is my current favorite. About engine oil; Chris Harris on Youtube is a BMW mechanic and recommends non-synthetic oil as he states it will eventually leak, claiming the only "two" leaks on the oilheads he has seen were a result of using synthetics. He also recommends Spectro 4 non-synthetic. I have synthetic in mine at present but plan a return to dino, probably Castrol 20 W 50. I have always used Castrol 85/90 dino in the final drive.

[Chris Canning]

Where has all this 'Do not use syn' come from?? Using fully syn Mobil1 in the gearbox was one of the first of many transitions that the 1100s has been through instead of the stock treacle.

I've used fully syn in the motor and gearbox since 2001 and in recent years in the rear bevel with zero leakage as have all the other guys I have known and know now who run 1100s's.

As for buying an 1100s you want a bike with as many bells and whistles,a stock 1100s is still one of the great horrors slowing turning/revving and slow at just about anything else buying those parts just doesn't make economic sense hence why you need them already on the bike.

The bells and whistles will not give big HP but most certainly pep the motor up by some margin,SJ filer/Induct/pipe/PC even then the motor will not break 100hp but the speed at which the revs pick up make it way more enjoyable and gives the old tractor motor a major shot in the arm.

[bikerfish1100]

Yes, price seems high by maybe a grand.

Synth oil is fine is the motor, trans or anywhere else you care to use it.

ALL the R1100 motored bikes are prone to trans input shaft spline wear/shearing. Need to lube them every 40K miles or so. An annoying job, mildly technical.

ALL the R1100 motored bikes are prone to rear pivot bearing wearing. Plan to replace them every 50K or so. Not a tough job, but another annoying one.

[BadToTheBown]

Originally Posted by Tirefriar

The best way to describe R11S is that this is the bike that does everything good but nothing great in particular. Coming off a Falco you will definitely feel the weight difference and also the lack of acceleration compared to Falco. With an R11S you are looking at approximately 100 lb more with 20 hp less. Its a good all around sport touring bike but I have not experienced the Falco so I can't give you a meaningful compare...Look for service records, yada yada. Like Aprilia, these are virtually bullet proof if maintained.

+1 A lot of good advice in this tread, few observations/opinions of my own...read if you care....
-no issues with syn oil, holds up to heat better than dino, 5K miles between changes
-$5K is probably high but so what, if you like the bike $1K is not a big discrimination
-bike doesn't really run-in until 40-50K, so more smoothness to come, mileage is best for telling what was going to break on it, otherwise they eat miles, worry more about stuff that ages needing attention
-upgrade the brake lines, I like the syn brake fluid and HH pads front, organic rear
-upgrade clutch master cylinder line, maybe rebuild master cylinder and slave - that rebuild part is easier said than done
-If front brake rotors warp, go with Braking rotors (you have the 305mm rotors)
-might be too soon to know if you have an iffy trans input shaft problem mileage wise but I don't think they still had the issue by 2002 but if it does, get another trans, don't fix
-fix the slow steering with a 10mm shorter telelever arm, worth the trouble, believe me
-Remus or Laser exhaust make more HP but only a couple, many like their Two Bros, go for the sound, forget the HP
-get the R1200 injector kit (moves you from 4 holes to 12)
-BMC air filter is better than a K&N
-bike runs better in open loop (disconnected O2 sensor) but it will hurt your gas mileage
-I like the city lid bags, full lids are better for touring but then I had a fat ass and bumped them into things I went by
-5" wide wheel with 170 tire turn better, especially with stock telelever
-after market shocks, I prefer high and low speed compression damping over just high - can't go wrong with most any aftermarket custom shock despite what others will swear are the best, stock will be loosing it by 30K
-if you are a spirited rider like me, you'll find you like the Q3 up front and a StreetSmart out back (soft on sides), if just touring, PRs are good, so were the Metzler Z tires
-stock head lights are good but could be better, HIDs all eventually fail and that costs, consider putting some aftermarket stationary ones on that cost less to replace, cheap Chinese HIDs fail sooner
-rubber harness covering will disintegrate with time and heat, I used friction tape to replace, takes some time but has held up very well, you can do this as needed instead fo all at once

This was probably more than you bargained for, still the best bikes I've ever owned, good luck...

[Meeni]

Originally Posted by JimMoore

that seems a little steep to me, by about a grand.

Considering the cost of delivery the price seems about right.

[ckcarr]

As Dr. Curve would say "It's only mere money."

Get what you like, pay what you think is fair. The incremental difference in price isn't going to matter two years from now.

[GreenvilleG8R]

I guess I stole mine. It is a 04R11S @ 34,000 miles. $2,700 with Corbin/Lady GunFighter seat. Reading above, I have some work to do. So far, I've changed oil and riden the snot out of it.

[ckcarr]

Originally Posted by GreenvilleG8R

I guess I stole mine. It is a 04R11S @ 34,000 miles. $2,700 with Corbin/Lady GunFighter seat. Reading above, I have some work to do. So far, I've changed oil and riden the snot out of it.

That would depend. Good price for a bare bike, but tell us more. Pictures?

[GreenvilleG8R]

It's a bit of a threadjack. Sorry OP, guessing you're long gone anyways.

Like is said earlier 04R11S, abs and corbin seat. Otherwise stock. 34k miles last year when I got it off Craigslist in Charleston SC. The guy was not a wrencher. Claimed service to be done at the BMW shop down there. Never bothered to check up one it. I'm third owner. Original owner must have been wealthy as there were parts left over of a built in radar detector and laser jammer in the left side cowl scoop. Brought it here to Greenville and had Touring Sport look it over. Needs tires soon. several other bits like brake lines and fluid and splines lube and rear gear oil changed. I've done oil and air filter changes, air in the tires and ridden a few thousand miles since last year.
The R11xx market here is soft with several bikes in in the <$4000 range. To get one under $3k was quite the deal.

[vtguy]

Hello All and thanks for the info. I visited my local BMW shop today to test ride some used bikes he has. Just so happens a customers R1100S was there. Seeing the bike in person again (saw it years ago in 02 or 03) really got me thinking about this one I mentioned for sale. Still for sale and still 5K with shipping to Burlington. Spoke with the sales person and waiting for some answers on questions. It is an 02, non abs, sport suspension (I forgot to ask about that), hard bags, cylinder protectors and carbon front fender. Looks really clean in pics. It is silver. Cheers!

[sgoodwin]

Sport suspension means you get yellow springs & about an inch longer shocks, makes the bike sit a bit higher. Damping is the same as stock.

[vtguy]

what is the reason for having the bike sit a little higher? Just higher in the rear? Make the bike turn in a bit quicker? For you owners of the R1100S, are you happy with this bike on long rides? I was very happy spending 10-11 hours in the saddle of my Falco which was the fighter kit. I am thinking this R1100S has a similar reach and drop to bar.

[vtguy]

Oh, and I meant to ask about cross winds. I had an Aprilia Futura that was terrifying in crosswinds. Does the R1100S have OK manners in cross winds?
Thanks again. Something about this bike, like my Falco, stirs my insides.