Window Guide Seal

[fastbirdxx]

Had the hydraulics replaced on my Z4 M and ever since, the drivers side window is leaking. We have replaced the two "guide seals" that connect to the top but, while it is a bit better, it still leaks. I have taken it back to the shop that did the work and they have attempted to fix the leak (they paid for the new guides and labor) but it still leaks. is there any adjustment to the guides? Can the top be brought down on its mounts to close the gap? It is only leaking on the longer rear guide up where it meets the intermediate guide. Any advice would really be appreciated. It does not really leak in a light/medium rain but if you get sprayed (as in a semi passing) or in a heavy rain, even just in washing the car, water runs down the inside of the window and if I am sitting in it, my shoulder gets wet. Thanks.

[fastbirdxx]

Found the article on the window adjust for leaks at Z4-Forums.com. The member that posted it is sk93 (to give credit where its due)
So I hope this helps someone along the way, as I know it can be infuriating having an air/water leak.

Adjust Window for Leaks
From Z4-Forum.com
Sk93

1: Window Reset Procedure #1
Try this first - it fixes most problems and is the quickest / easiest to try


1: Put key in ignition and turn to position 1 (lights/radio on, but NO dash lights)
2: Push and hold down the open window button (do one window at a time)
3: Once fully open, KEEP the button depressed for between 5 and 10 further seconds (do not release the button between step 2 and 3)
4: Pull and hold up with close window button until the window fully closes.
5: Release button and turn off ignition
6: Turn ignition back on and check window operation.
7: Repeat for other window if required.



2: Window Reset Procedure #2
Incase the first doesn't work!


1: Put key in ignition and turn to position 1 (lights/radio on, but NO dash lights)
2: Push and hold down the open window button (do one window at a time)
3: Once fully open, release the button, then depress four more times within ten seconds of the window fully opening
4: Close window partially
5: Push and hold down the open window button until the window fully opens
6: Pull and hold up the close window button immediately after the window fully opens
7: Once fully closed, continue to hold up the close window button for 2 more seconds then release
8: Immediately repeat steps 5 to 7 one more time
9: Turn off ignition
10: Turn ignition back on and check window operation
11: Repeat procedure for other window if required




3: Adjust rake angle of window glass
Try this if the front of the glass is lining up perfectly, but the rear doesn't appear to be high enough to make a seal along the top edge.
OR, if the rear of the window is too high and is stopping the front of the glass from fully closing.




1: Lower the window fully
2: Open the door
3: Look under the door and locate the rear-most plastic cover (it is oval in shape)
4: Remove the grommet
5: Inside you will find a small adjustment screw about two inches inside the door - NOT the 10mm nut!
6: Rotate this screw clockwise to raise the rear of the glass / anti-clockwise to lower the rear of the glass
7: Re-raise the window fully during the adjustment to check alignment
8: Replace grommet



4: Adjust camber angle of window glass
Try this if the glass is either pushing up too tightly to the seal, stopping it from closing properly.
OR if the glass is not pushing up against the seal sufficiently enough to cause a good seal.


1: Close the window fully
2: Open the door
3: Look under the door and locate the rear-most plastic cover (it is oval in shape)
4: Remove the grommet
5: Inside you will find a 10mm but (with the window up, you wont see the adjustment screw, so you can't get it wrong )
6: Loosen this bolt so that it is free to spin, but don't take it off
7: Using a flat-blade screwdriver, gently prise the loosened nut and stud either towards the outside of the door (if the glass is not close enough to the seal), or towards the inside of the door (if the glass is too close to the seal)
8: Re-tighten the nut
9: Close door GENTLY and check alignment.
10: If the glass is too close and appears to bend slightly whilst closing the door, you've pushed the nut/stud too far towards the outside - adjust it back immediately WITHOUT closing the door, as you risk the glass shattering..
11: Once alignment is complete, ensure the nut is fully tightened
12: Replace the grommet



5: Adjust the castor angle of the window glass
Use this if the glass appears to either be too far forward in the door, or too far back

1: Open the window approximately half way (if you have a convertible, use the "open roof" button, as this will perfectly position the window for you!)
2: Remove the door card (plenty of guides here) - no need to remove airbag, and you will want to keep the power on, so don't disconnect it either.
3: Peel back the foam protector in the bottom rear corner of the door (it's held in place with butyl tape - use a sharp knife and be careful!)
4: Locate a large circular hole in the frame, (has an approximate diameter of 1.5 inches)
5: Through this hole, you should be able to feel the rear window lifting cradle.
6: in the center of this cradle is a large black bolt, with a female torx 45 head
7: If this screw is not perfectly accessible via the hole, either raise or lower the window slightly until it is.
8: loosen but do NOT remove this bolt. You are able to get your hand around to the back of this bolt and feel when it is almost undone.
9: With the bolt loosened, grab hold of the window glass and pull it either towards the rear of the door, or push it towards the front of the door.
10: Once adjusted, re-tighten the cradle bolt.
11: Repeat adjustment as required.
12: Once final adjustment is complete, tighten cradle bolt fully
13: Re-attach foam protector to the door (if you didn't destroy the butyl tape, heat it up slightly with a hairdryer and it will become sticky and pliable once again)
14: Re-attach door card



Now, BMW suggests that instead of what I've listed in step 5, you actually remove the outer door handle, and undo the same bolt from the outside.
This does work, and will allow approximately 5mm more of movement of the window, but it does require a special tool in order to remove the door handle correctly.
My recommendation is that you try step 5 first, and if that doesn't work, either buy the special tool from BMW, or (and it's probably cheaper!) take it to BMW to adjust.