Boxster Project 2 : Oil Change

[Wayne 962]

Anyone got any questions on Project 2 - Oil Change for your 986 Boxster, 987 Boxster, Cayman, Carrera 996, or Carrera 997?

Here's a back link to the original article: Pelican Technical Article: 02-BASICS-Oil_Change

-Wayne

[westladog]

Thank you.
Regarding the oil filter removal tool. Is there one at a local auto parts store or I have to order the porsche specific tool?

[Andrew D.]

Originally Posted by westladog

Thank you.
Regarding the oil filter removal tool. Is there one at a local auto parts store or I have to order the porsche specific tool?

I ordered mine from Pelican. It arrived quickly and works perfectly.

[clickman]

I tried a metal one - wouldn't grip. The plastic ones were also useless. So now I use a strap to get it off, using flat rubber to protect the plastic filter can from the metal part the extension goes into. To put it back on, hand tight. I'm no Superman, but no leaks so far!

[WhipE350]

I have one from Autozone I use on my E350, fits my Boxster perfectly.

[Pinarelloman]

I have the seat belt webbing one. Fits my Toyota Landcruiser 4x4 and the Boxste
r.
Also fitted our Subaru.

[Wayne 962]

The one we sell works very well - it's a Genuine Porsche part (see link: Project 2: Oil Change - Page 1). I suppose you can use a rubber filter strap, but it won't work as well.

-Wayne

[JMatta]

I ordered the genuine one from Pelican years back and it worked perfectly. I've since updated to the LN billet filter adapter, with spin on filter; as a bonus, it also fits the new spin on filters!

[dmatz]

I have a newly installed Porsche crate engine (in a 04 Boxster). I'd like to install the spin-on filter, but the dealer warns against invalidating the 2 yr warranty. He also says the factory filter gives 100% flow thruough the filter unless it is blocked up. This seems contrary to the implication in the 101Projects chapter that says the spin-on adapter gives full flow, and is an improvement on the factory setup in this regard. Does the factory filter actually have a bypass under normal backpressures?

[JMatta]

Wayne can respond in better terms than I, but I believe the factory cartridge has a much better chance of allowing unfiltered oil to re-enter the engine, due to failure. I am so happy I converted my car to the LN adapter.

[turboflyer]

I have not checked the actual engine plumbing, but if either elements fail the oil will be unfiltered. Aside from that there has to be a pressure relief in the engine block or pump to preclude over pressurization and keep oil pressure constant under varying rpms. The bypass in the filter is to prevent the paper element form rupturing should it become clogged and to allow greater oil flow when the oil is cold. Also will allow oil to bypass a dirty filter. I have all the spin on adaptors/parts, and even an accusump if any one is interested PM.

[Wayne 962]

The spin-on filter and the Porsche warranty may be a sticky legal issue. From a technical point of view, I see no problem with it. I can't recall off the top of my head the issues with bypassing the filter, but I do know that Callas Rennsport has seen these cheapie filters fail and then clog the engine (on a Cayenne). They are probably fine if you change them every 3000-5000 miles and use high-quality filters. Still, the Mobil-1 filters seem to me to be a more robust solution, but that's just a gut feeling.

-Wayne

[SamirD]

I've done oil changes on all the cars I've owned, and after the local dealership overfilled the most recent change and didn't care, that is the last time they're touching my car.

So it's a 2005 Boxster with less than 24k. It's actually sat for almost 2 years now on a battery tender with occasional driving, but not much.

I'm working on an oil change but have run into some anomalies. One is that the drain plug looks like it's a torx instead of a hex. My 8mm hex got stuck in it, but a t-50 torx fits perfectly. When I look at the plug, it looks like it grooves cut for the torx. Second is that I can't find a crush washer--anywhere! Not on the drain hole, not in the oil, not on the plug. And it looks like it was leaking as there's a film of oil/dirt grime all over the underside of the car. Thoughts?

[JMatta]

First I recommend you replace the drain plug with the LN magnetic version...much more robust and collects any metal that may be in the oil. Sounds like whoever changed the oil on the car last didn't use a crush washer and probably used a drain plug from some other vehicle (the factory ones are cheap and strip easily). Also, change your oil with a good synthetic every five thousand miles or annually, whichever comes first...extended oil changes are not kind to the M96 engine per documented used oil analysis.

[SamirD]

Originally Posted by JMatta

First I recommend you replace the drain plug with the LN magnetic version...much more robust and collects any metal that may be in the oil. Sounds like whoever changed the oil on the car last didn't use a crush washer and probably used a drain plug from some other vehicle (the factory ones are cheap and strip easily). Also, change your oil with a good synthetic every five thousand miles or annually, whichever comes first...extended oil changes are not kind to the M96 engine per documented used oil analysis.

I've considered the LN plug, but want to find out what really happened with the plug first. I didn't think about them using a different plug as that might have been the case. But this was the Porsche dealership! I'll be reporting them to Porsche North America. This isn't the first time I've heard of issues with the service department. I just told a friend to cancel his oil change appointment on his Cayenne.

The car has sat for long times with the same oil, and I did smell a strong fuel smell coming from the refill tube in the back. I know fuel and oil together aren't a good mix and this alarms me.

I'm going by the dealership to have them GIVE me a new drain plug and crush washer. We'll see how that goes.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by dmatz

I have a newly installed Porsche crate engine (in a 04 Boxster). I'd like to install the spin-on filter, but the dealer warns against invalidating the 2 yr warranty. He also says the factory filter gives 100% flow thruough the filter unless it is blocked up. This seems contrary to the implication in the 101Projects chapter that says the spin-on adapter gives full flow, and is an improvement on the factory setup in this regard. Does the factory filter actually have a bypass under normal backpressures?

The factory by-pass valve is in the bottom of the plastic filter canister housing, if you look into it you will see it in the center.

[mattatk]

Slight thread drift...
Wayne, for the manual transmission oil change, the filler port on the 6 speed gearbox is back at the rear left of the housing, nowhere near the 5 speed plug.
Sorry if this has already been covered, but I couldn't find a reference to its location in the Boxster Bible (ie. your book!).

[SamirD]

I found the crush washer in the used oil when dumping into the collection container today, so that's a relief. Although that makes me even more upset knowing that they never bothered to check for a leak and just let it leak.

I went to the dealership and talked to the lead tech. I verified his answers with the former lead tech (who now is independent), and they were total malarkey. Some of the most illogical crap ever thought up.

The stock drain plug is soft for a reason, which is one thing I definitely notice. But I also know that most everything I've seen on this car is designed this way for a reason. The plug is cheap, so if I need a new one, I'll just get another one. To keep the 8mm/3/8" hex tight, I used a paper napkin over the bit to remove any play. Seemed to work well. I was tempted to use the t50 torx which I bought because it does fit much better, but both technicians at the dealership said not to as it would definitely strip the plug. I'll try the torx when I have a spare plug as I don't buy it. Looking at the plug, the t50 will hold much better.

I tried a 76mm 14flute filter cap wrench from Napa and it still slipped like the 75mm one. I've got the Porsche tool on order from the dealership as they gave me a good price after they've pissed me off so much. We'll see if I can get the filter off next week. For now, at least I've got fresh oil. I hate that I hear so much cam and lifter noise though. I want to get everything in there cleaned up and running smooth again.

[JMatta]

If you filled with Mobil 1 0W40, you will have a lot of noise (really thin oil for your location). I personally fill with Castrol Syntec 10W40, though a few experts recommend at least 5W40 for protection and noise reduction; lots of oil threads if you search, so you can use your own judgement. Not to further complicate your issues, but I also installed the LN billet spin on filter adapter to eliminate the cheap paper/plastic cartridge Porsche installed.

[SamirD]

I had the same issue for a while in my Accord in which I use Amsoil's 0-40. I changed to the Mobil1 0-40 since I had it for the Porsche. It took some time before the noise quieted down. I'm expecting the same with the Porsche after a while.

I've always seen that on the Boxster, the engineering is top notch. Nothing was done without thinking it through. So I plan to stick with all the normal factory recommendations until there's enough wear that I have to take it in my own hands.

I don't think it's a good idea to use a spin on adapter versus the factory filter. I'm sure the LN hasn't done the extensive amount of engineering and real-world testing that Porsche has done on their filter. And if there's an issue, I'm sure LN or Porsche won't cover it.