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-   -   Lots of different comments on oil weights...I can't decide. (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/486502-lots-different-comments-oil-weights-i-cant-decide.html)

Zeke 07-20-2009 01:57 PM

Lots of different comments on oil weights...I can't decide.
 
0w/40w or what for the 2.7? Seems to me that a few years back the old 10w/40w became obsolete during some kind of reformulation or viscosity ratings change. Is the 0w/ 40w the new 10w/ 40?

Mike, I know what you recommend, 10w/ 50w in hot climates and we have hot weather here in SoCal for 4 months. The car does not see hard use.

Any oil guys here? I may cross post this somewhere.

JMatta 07-21-2009 10:24 AM

Milt, Charles Navarro (LN Engineering and Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations) both feel Mobil 1 0W40 is crap (way too thin and breaks down easily).

10W40 or even 15W50 is highly recommended in flavors other than M1.

I use Royal Purple 10W40 and could care less if it's on the "approved list"...I want my engine to last. I also change my oil once a year, which for equates to about 3000 miles; but 5 to 6k miles is recommended over the extended change intervals.

Please check out both Charle's and Jake's websites for good Boxster (M96 engine) advice.

M.D. Holloway 07-21-2009 10:25 AM

Milt,
The first number is what it is winterized to, the second number is far more important. The older 2.7 needed a SAE 50 at operating temps (above 100C) - the fact that it was a 20W50 is because years ago they just didn't have pour point depressant technology to bring down the low temp viscosity. That is not the case. You can find 0W40 on the market but really if you don't live up in the Northwest territories you don't need it.

In fact, if your car never sees temps lower than 60F, there really is no need to use a winterized oil - you can stick to a SAE 50. I have known many folks to drop a viscosity grade without incident and actually save a little of gas costs.

So - you can actually use a SAE 15W40 if you drive in the winter (sub 40F) or a SAE 40 if you live in Hawaii.

Zeke 07-21-2009 11:04 AM

Thanks for your replies. I'm going to use the 0w 40w Mobile1 "Euro" that I have for now. I guess I'll look for some Motul in a better weight range before too long. We do live near the beach, so 100* temps are rare.

DCinVA 07-22-2009 04:10 AM

I use Mobil1 - 0W40 . I figure if the factory recommends it, it must be a good thing. Clearly the porsche engineers have given this a bit of thought, and done a bit of research, before making this recomendation, for their engines. They know a lot more about it than I do.

JMatta 07-22-2009 05:33 AM

They're also the same engineers that are responsible for slipped sleeves, D-chunks, leaking RMS seals, failed IMS bearings, etc, etc.

Recommending Mobil 1 is nothing more than marketing and putting additional dollars in Porsche AG's pockets (which they need at this time).

GaryR 07-22-2009 05:45 AM

I would run Mobil 1 10W40 or 15W50 in a warm climate year round like Milts. Just my $.02

Zeke 07-22-2009 06:29 AM

I agree with both statements above. The thing is, 15w 50w, 5w 40w, 10w 40w and 15w 40w are all but impossible to find around here. All the oils at WallyMart are 5w 20w.

But, I have to agree with Lubey, it's more of the high number than the low. I think a 5w 50w would be ideal. Never seen that, though.

I'll run this 0w 40w for a few miles and dump it. It will cleanse the engine.

MikeBat 08-04-2009 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMatta (Post 4791317)
They're also the same engineers that are responsible for slipped sleeves, D-chunks, leaking RMS seals, failed IMS bearings, etc, etc.

Recommending Mobil 1 is nothing more than marketing and putting additional dollars in Porsche AG's pockets (which they need at this time).

They are also the same engineers who brought us the 356, 73 RS, 917, 956, , CGT, 997 RSR etc...

I do not fully buy the opinion that Mobil is the recommended oil because they are filling Porsche's pockets with money now that times are tough. Times have only been tough recently. They have been recommending that oil for a long time.

I do not think that Mobil 1 is the be all end all... but I have not drank the other punch either.

941MXVET 08-04-2009 06:58 PM

FWIW, I chose Royal Purple 5w-40 for my Boxster (2.5). I sent off a sample for a VOA and was a little concerned with 726 ppm zinc and 6xx ppm Phosphorus.

I'm strongly considering Redline 5w-40 for my next change.

Even with that said, the RP quieted my engine, and it dose seam to run a little cooler then with the M1.

There are plenty of good oils out there, some are approved, some aren't.

JMatta 08-06-2009 01:38 PM

They are also the same engineers who brought us the 356, 73 RS, 917, 956, , CGT, 997 RSR etc...

Some perhaps, but the accountants have taken over. Specialty cars, as you've sighted, have never been built alongside common "street" cars that we purchase today.

Shell used to be the factory fill and somewhere along the line, Mobil must have offered more "incentive". No one said this is a recent phenomenon...just an observation. Porsche didn't put Mobil 1 stickers on all those cars for gratis.

big911fan 08-01-2010 11:28 AM

First post Here
 
Hey guys. Just popped over from the 911 forum for the first time. I have a 2006 Boxster S and an '89 Carrera. I saw this old post on oils and wanted to add something I just heard on the 911 forum regarding oils.

We were discussing 911 oils when I mentioned my 2006 Boxster S. Some of the independent Porsche gurus over there said they wouldn't use M1 0W-40 in any Porsche.

Their choice, at least one of the shops, was Total 5W-40 as it was much better than M1. They also said never to use anything higher than 5W40 in vario cam engines. Ie- no 15W50, 20W50, etc.

Any comments?

Wayne 962 08-01-2010 02:23 PM

Mobil-1 has been reformulated and had a lot of the anti-wear additives removed. I would run one of the older formulations instead (Brad Penn, Swepco). I still have a supply of old Mobil-1 with the old formulation for my own cars. I also think the weight of the oil is less important than frequent oil changes, although I don't like to run 0-wt oil in general. I typically run 10 or 20 wt oil (heavier oils recommended in hotter environments). Change your oil every 3000-5000 miles - way more important than the brand / weight of oil.

Charles (LN Engineering) just recently experimented with some super-light weight oils and cooked his engine as a result, so I would probably stay away from those...

-Wayne

big911fan 08-01-2010 02:45 PM

Oil Weight
 
It sounds like the people in the know are not M1 fans despite the factory recommendations (which I'm sure has at least some monetary considerations). The comments are fairly consistent cross the feedback spectrum by knowledgeable people.

The comment about running anything greater than 5W40 in a Boxster is the real question. I have heard other sources also say that vario cam engines need the lighter weight oils or you can have problems. In fact I heard heavier oils may even set a check engine light (but that's completely unverified).

Regarding Total 5W40, that's what I'm running in my 2004 Boxster S right now but I haven't seen any oil analysis comparisons of it to M1, Royal Purple, Motul, etc. I'm wondering why Total is getting so much interest lately.

Steve986 08-06-2010 04:34 AM

For my '01 2.7 I'm considering the Mobil Delvac formulation for my next change as opposed to the standard Mobil1 formula. Mobil1 Truck/Diesel 05W40 is the same formula as Mobil Delvac, just packaged in the quarts and renamed. It appears to be readily available at just about any of the auto places I've visited.

Steve

K. McClain 08-06-2010 09:52 AM

I used Mobil 1 in almost everything I own, but for the Boxster I've gone with RedLine 5W40. No more clacking noise on start up and the lifters are much quieter.

I've driven the car to and from Watkins Glen and NJMP in over 100 degree heat and the temp gauge stayed at 185 the whole time.

My only complaint is you can't find it everywhere.

JMatta 08-06-2010 07:00 PM

Since this post started over one year ago, I must modify my choice of oil. Though I feel Royal Purple is still a very good choice, I'm now on my third fill of Castrol Syntec 10W40, based upon input from some very knowledgeable folks. The engine continues to run smoothly, while I still freshen the crankcase every 3000 miles, at most.

Schumi 08-06-2010 07:00 PM

If I could find a place in the southbay area that sells Redline or Motul in 5w40, I would be very, very happy.

Zeke 08-07-2010 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schumi (Post 5493919)
If I could find a place in the southbay area that sells Redline or Motul in 5w40, I would be very, very happy.

Well, you can call Callas and see if they will sell you some. Maybe they've changed their tune.

I haven't gotten mine yet, but there's supposedly a place in Huntington Beach that has it in stock. Their ph no is 714 602-5741.

I think I'm going to try to buy some online out-of-state and let the lack of tax offset the shipping. I'll let you know.

turboflyer 08-15-2010 10:14 AM

I have used 0-40 since new, now a 74K, and does not use oil and runs grreat. Also all oil analysis results have been outstanding. I have decide to supplement the 0-40 with two quarts of 10-40 Mobile one motorcycle oil, just as a booster. Not really needed though. change it once a year or 7,500 and you will be fine. Oil threads can get real personal.


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