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LN Engineering Low Temp insert
I'm sorry if this has been asked before. If so I can't find it. But has anyone had any experience with the 160 degree thermostat insert from LN engineering.
If so? Pros and cons? thanks, Randy |
All pro’s, no con’s. We have many customers running it, not one owner has every commented negatively on the install.
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+1 on JFP's comments...along with the new T-stat if needed replace the water pump and for a minimal investment upgrade to a 'S' type oil cooler. It's almost twice the size of the non 'S' units and all you need is a new set of 'O' rings to install it. Direct bolt on.
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Thanks JFP and Mike. Mike have the S oil cooler sitting on my work bench. Just accumulating parts so all this can be done at once.
Thanks again, Randy |
OK, Before I order 160 degree insert and not the whole enchilada thermostat wise. Any reason I should get 160 Degree housing complete? And any acssocited hoses I should get. I only want to do this once...
Randy |
Unless you own the tool required to remove and replace the stat from your current housing, you would probably be better getting the assembled unit, which also comes with a new gasket which you will also need.
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JFP, Looks like according to there site. The tool is included? I just need to purchase the gasket.
Price includes new low temperature thermostat insert manufactured in Germany by one of the same manufacturers that makes the oe thermostat insert, allowing you to reuse your original housing. Gasket (1 required) sold separately. Includes the special tool required to change insert out. Provides increased cooling capacity increasing power while ensuring consistent performance and extending engine-component longevity. Randy http://www.lnengineering.com/store/catalog/160f-temperature-insert-tool-bundle-p-161.html |
Thermostat insert ordered. Can you tell me what hoses connect to it I need? I can't tell by the diagrams of hoses.
Hope everyone had a great 4th!!! Randy |
To change out the thermostat you don't need any hoses unless the ones you have are leaking or cracking.
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Regarding the low temp thermostat, there are some things that should be noted:
- The thermostat sends coolant earlier to the front radiators, but the fans don't kick in any earlier (unless you reprogram the ECU, or trick it with different sensors), so don't expect too much cooling when idling in traffic. - Porsche supposedly ran the higher temps in the motor to help burn off water and other contaminants that were inside the oil. So, if you use the low-temp thermostat, reduce your oil change intervals to about 5,000 or so. There shouldn't be any real downsides to the installation... -Wayne |
Thanks click and Wayne. Ya, I'm aware of the fans not coming on any sooner. And I had planned on doing the oil changes more frequently even without the new T-Stat.
As far as the hose's are concerned. When I replaced the drive belt earlier this year. I reached down to where the T-Stat is and the hose felt soft. Sign of needing to be changed. Plus, You don't know my luck. As soon as I try to remove the hose. Something will go bad and the hose will get destroyed. I just how things go with me. My experience with things is Murphy was an optimist. I'll also probably be replacing the water pump as well. So any hoses that are in the immediate vicinity I would like to change while it's apart. This will also be the time when the S-Cooler gets installed that I have one hand. Just want to drain the fluids once and be done with it. Thanks for your help gentleman as usual. Randy |
Randy, while you upgrading and replacing nows a great time to clean and inspect the front rads for debris....you would not have believed the crap I pulled out of mine. Cleaned and washed them out and the back sides of the A/C conden's at the same time. Well worth the 1.5 hours needed to yank the front nose off.
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Ya Mike. That's in the playbook as well. As the front bumper and hood are coming off for a repaint. Great time to address those as well. This thing is probably going to be apart for a couple of weeks during all this. Just get er done is what I say.
Thanks for your input. Randy |
Ok, found the part number for the water pump hose. It appears to be 996-106-222-17-m253. But the hose for the thermostat is not clearly marked in the parts list as thermostat hose. Here's a pic. It's the hose with the red arrow pointing to it.
Randy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310064686.jpg |
Randy, to be exactly sure I'd check with Loren over on RENNTECH.ORG he will know the exact p/n. He will need your model year and make.
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Thanks as usual Mike. I took your advice. Oh and Made sure I used the search function over there first for the obvious reason. LOL You know what I mean I am sure.;)
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You won't regret changing over to the low temp t-stat. I changed mine, along with new coolant two summers ago and the temp needle never goes beyond the line at 180; even on a 90 degree day. It surely reduces oil temps, which are a good thing and I run Syntec 10W40, as well.
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Thanks Matta. Mike, Posted the question on Renntech as well. Re: part number for that hose a couple of days ago now. Nothing. It's hard to believe that between two different sites no one has replied with the part number for that hose. Someone must have changed it out at one point. Well, I would think so anyway???:rolleyes:
Randy |
Well, Thanks to my local Porsche dealer. Here's my bogie...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310227181.jpg If you folks need one. The part number is. 996-106-502-06 Randy |
Yeah, here it is on Pelican. I didn't change any of my hoses as they were in excellent condition.
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 996-106-502-06-M100 |
Yep, That's the one. Try to find which hose it is without the part number in hand. Doesn't matter here or Porsche PET PDF file. Nothing gives you an indication. The phrase. "water flange" is of no help. The way the parts guy at the Porsche dealer found it. Was to go to the service manager and get him to point it out. I went ahead and ordered from them as they are the ones that found the right part # for me.
Not fare to make them do the work and not reap the profits. Same price as Pelican anyway. I need to get the water pump and that three legged hose for it next. Randy |
You've done a great service for those to come...I'm quite certain Wayne will appreciate it, as well.
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Randy |
Matta, You may know the answer to this question. Or anyone else with hands on experience. Is there enough difference between the Genuine Porsche water pump and the Piergurg one. To justify the difference in price? Being that the Genuine is almost a hundred bucks more?
Thanks for your input in advance. Randy |
I can't speak from experience, but everything I've read appears the aftermarket pumps fail quite quickly. Check for posts from Jake Raby or JFP in PA for their expert opinions. Those folks have the experience and have seen many failures, so I tend to appreciate their guidance the subjects. FWIW, I never cut corners on my Porsches, as it could eventually lead to greater problems.
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Kinda what I was thinking as well. Both of those folks advice for me is always appreciated and respected. JFP is the first one to advise me to do the S cooler and low temp thermostat. So off I go. If you wanna enjoy BBQ and a beer in ABQ. Come by anytime.
Thanks for your input Matta! Randy |
Pics of LN Eng thermostat (left) next to stock (right) and the oil cooler for the "S" vs base:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310361067.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310361090.jpg The oil coolers are upside-down. |
Thanks Click. I have the S-Cooler out in my shop already. The T-Stat insert was delivered today to my house. I'll post a pic of what it looks like tonight after I get home.
Randy |
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Here's a pic of the oil cooler and T-Stat insert as promised. You can see the tool that comes with the insert to put it in the stock housing. Water pump ordered and on the way. I went with the genuine pump.
JFP, Thanks for your input. As usual!!! Randy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310437188.jpg |
Anytime; glad to be of help. After removing the fasteners, be sure to lift the old cooler straight up and then slide a plastic bag under it before removing it. Even though the cooling system is drained, there is always some oil and coolant retained in the cooler, just enough to make one Hell of a mess on top of your engine, that will try to come out when the unit is tilted. Saves on clean up………..
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Thanks again JFP. Will do.
Randy |
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I received the water pump today. The Genuine version. You can clearly tell, the impeller is made of metal with a flick of the finger. I will feel much more comfortable with that, than the plastic ones, some of the after market ones are. I'm not sure how the Pierburg one is made.
Still have to get the T-Stat hose and the water pump hose, related to the part numbers on this thread. I think when done. I'll be happy, I went ahead and replaced all these parts while there. It cost money, yes. Piece of mind for me is worth allot. I'll be posting the install of these and other parts. (AOS, associated parts) on another thread when everything is in hand and ready to go. It can be found at this link. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/601487-diary-1999-high-mileage-boxster-3.html A pic or two of the water pump. Randy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310608098.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310608133.jpg |
Nice, thanks for the photos !
Rod |
Since when does the genuine pump use a metal impeller? According to both Jake Raby and JFP in PA, a metal impeller will do irreparable harm to the block when the bearing fails. Not sure which is worse, plastic lodged in the heads or a ruined case...either way you're screwed.
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Matta, Not sure since when. But it sure rings like metal when you flick it with your finger nail. I'll tap it with something else tonight. Like a screw driver. But your observations brings me to another question. What is the typical life expectancy of the water pump? Miles or years?
Thanks, Randy |
I have never seen an OEM pump with a metal impeller, and I've seen quite a few pumps over the years. The life of the pump is always a question; some seem to go on forever, others break up after only a couple of years. Because the failure of the impeller can result in little bits blocking vital coolant passages, preemptive changes have become more common in recent years, usually in the 3-4 year range, or when the cooling system needs to be opened up.
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Well, I came home and tapped it lightly with a screw driver. It sure rings like metal. But I took it out into the daylight and looked at it carefully and it looks like brown die cast plastic. Not sure why it rings like metal. So I stand corrtected. Thanks for everyones help. Here are a couple more pics.
Randy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310691443.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310691467.jpg |
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