Help! Removed the IMS Flange and the IMS is not centered

[boulderick]

I've read everything I can get my hands on concerning IMS bearing
replacement, and for peace of mind I decided to pull the trigger and
upgrade the IMS on my 2000 Boxster S, along with new clutch, flywheel,
cv boots, RMS, coolant flush, and brake/clutch fluid replacement.

I'm using the LN Engineering bearing and the custom tool kit that goes
with it. I pulled the transmission, clutch and flywheel, then did the
following:

1. Set the engine to TDC for the passenger side cams ( Put the LN kit
pin through the crankshaft pulley after aligning marks on crank pulley
and block. I removed the camshaft end covers and confirmed that the
exhaust cam slot is vertical on the passenger side exhaust cam) 2.
Bolted cam locking tool from LN on to passenger side exhaust cam 3.
Removed the flywheel side cam tensioners completely - the tensioner that
is horizontal on the driver's side, and the one that is mounted
vertically facing downward on the passenger side.
4. Removed the IMS flange
5. Removed the IMS bearing with the LN tooling.

I'm concerned that the IMS is not in the center of the hole in the block
(photo attached), but rather close to, or touching the top of the bore.
The tensioners are completely removed on the flywheel side and there
seems to be no play in the shaft. I can't move it with my fingers.
I'm ordering the bearing today (needed to confirm single row or double
row), and I'm concerned about getting the flange back on with the shaft
out of center. I don't want to force the flange on and thought, with the tensioners removed, the shaft end would have some play.

I haven't seen anything in the forums about this problem. Do I have a
problem? If so, do you have suggestions for getting the IMS aligned so
the flange goes in smoothly?

[seventythree]

I can only see 1 pic, and that's with the bearing still on.

[JFP in PA]

If the above photo is correct, you are fine, but I have to ask: How many tensioners did you remove? The bearing sometimes looks off center slightly, but as the flange cover is slightly smaller (the orings do the actual sealing), it should go back on without much fuss. Just take your time, and never attempt to force anything when reassembling.

[feelyx]

As said above, your good. Could post the number on the seal? If you open the bearing up post pics of it? If there was oil in the tube? And lastly let us know if you found any grease in it?
Thanks

[boulderick]

I removed the two tensioners on the flywheel side of the engine. I did not touch the other tensioner.

About a cup of oil came out with the bearing. It appears in excellent condition. The number on the seal is: 6204DUA1 7 NSK JAPAN O58

I just pried the cover off the bearing and found it to be full of oil, not grease. However, the bearing turns smoothly and is tight.

The car has 30,000 miles on it.

I've included a picture of the IMS with the bearing removed, and of the bearing with the seal removed.

[feelyx]

Thanks boulderick...

[boulderick]

Some more background: The car has been very well treated by it's previous owner. Garaged, never tracked, driven rarely (less than 3,000 miles per year), and only in summers. Rarely in the rain. Oil changes religiously every 3,000 miles with Mobil 1. Pulled the sump out of curiosity. Spotless. I put more miles on her in the first month than the previous owner averaged in a year. Can't figure out why someone wouldn't drive the heck out of a car this fun with the Rockies on only 10 minutes away . . .

[JFP in PA]

The reason your shaft was skewed to one side is that you did not remove the third tensioner, but you seem to have gotten by with only two. We always pull out three as we usually replace them with the latest units as well.

[Wayne 962]

JFP is right - the other tensioner is pulling it up. When you go to put the bearing back on, you should be able to wiggle it in place with a minimal amount of force. The bearing installation tool is a cylinder you whack with a hammer - you're not going to damage the bearing or shaft by moving it back into place.

Hope this helps,

Wayne

[boulderick]

Thanks, JFP and Wayne. I'm in no great hurry right now as the IMS bearing isn't going to show up until early next week, so I'll pull the third tensioner today to see what happens. After all this work and over $600 just for the bearing, I want it to go in with a minimum of force on the flange to ensure I don't damage the seal on the way in.

The tensioners look to have minimal wear - only a small rub point at the end of each tensioner. My guess is that I don't have to replace them. Is there a good reason to go to the new design? If so this would be the time to do it. I've also read that you shouldn't replace all three with the new design because of incompatibility between one of the tensioners and its associated ramp. Is that true?

[JFP in PA]

The tensioners have been updated a couple of times over the years. As these things both wear and become glazed with varnish and filled with small debris in the internal oil passages which can be a source of start up noise, replacing them as they are already out is a no brainer. Some have cleaned the old ones by pumping hot cleaning oil through them on the bench; we just can them and put new ones in. Just be sure to get the correct ones for your model year and you will be fine. You really don't want to be doing this entire process twice............

[boulderick]

Looks like Wayne is going to get a bit more of my paycheck this month . . . adding three tensioners to the dole. My mistress does make some noise for the first second or two on startup. Hopefully new tensioners will fix that.

[boulderick]

Ok . . . pulled the third tensioner, and my IMS is still immobile - no play at all - and stuck against the block at the 1 o'clock position. Bearing is due from LN in the next couple of days, so I have time to try other things . . .

[syncroid]

Don't worry about the alignment. Put the new bearing in and then slide the new LN bearing plate on. You can then grab the plate with your hands and muscle it center. Start the three bolts by hand and draw them all in evenly. The shaft will center itself. Just make sure you are able to start them by hand. I have never pulled all three tensioners to do this job. (only the two at the flywheel end)
Good luck.

[bala]

I did the PP bearing. Mine looked like yours as well. but more toward the 2 o clock position. The new bearing went in fine. Make sure to replace the o rings on the tensioners and also the crush rings.

Take your time and slow soft taps. Are you doing the RMS btw?

[boulderick]

Thanks Dan and Bala. The LN bearing just arrived - it's in the freezer and I'll follow your instructions tomorrow after work.

Bala - yes, I'm replacing the RMS, and all three tensioners. And clutch, flywheel, CV boots, pulled the coolant reservoir and replacing the leaking hose connections. If anyone has any other recommendations while the car is at maximum entropy, I'm all ears.

I made my own RMS install tool, using ideas from several folks. It's a 3" to 2" PVC reducer. I ground the lip off the inside so I could slide a 2" PVC pipe to 14mm short of the end of the coupler. The idea wasn't mine - I found it in one of the other forums.

I plan on putting the RMS and IMS bearing in tomorrow and will let you know how it works out.

[bala]

Dont use a pvc reducer for the rms. It always see,s to go at an angle.Especially if you have the car on stands and the engine is off angle. A 3 inch to 3 inch pvc connector about 3 inches long works fine.

Like the one in this link:
4 in. Schedule 40 PVC Coupling SxS-429-040 at The Home Depot

Again tap softly and slowly all around. It works well. The contraption you have seems like you are going to shoot a canon!

The reducer seems to push it at an angle. Once it goes in an angle the lip is probably messed up and removing is only that much harder. I damaged mine that way. Had to run to the dealer and two more for good measure. Also dont use sealant. If you are concerned then push the rms in until it is sticking out a couple mm. Then seal the edges all around and tap it in. A new seal when installed well should seal it tight. You will know what i'm talking about when you tap it in. It is one tight seal.

Again take your time and go slow. Do not fight the rms and the ims.

Why are you changing the tensioners? Cant image how all 3 are bad. But do change the o rings and crush washer. Nomsealant here here either.

When bolting down the ims flange do not exceed the torque. Those bolts that come with the kit are made of chalk! Seriously. I ended up reusing mine.

Fr the cv boots. pack the grease in. As much as you can. If tour original cv were torn then clean them up well? I used kerosene to wash thoroughly to remove any sand particles etc. There were some. Good luck.

[BerneseMtnDog]

I would replace the AOS while you're in there. You'll never have better access to the bottom connections. I'd take a look at the oil fill tube as well. They split with age and seep.

Steve

[boulderick]

Arghhhhhhhhhhh! Tapped the new IMS in, and slid the IMS flange on. The flange doesn't line up, and no matter how hard I pull on it, it doesn't move, even a little bit.

What do I do now?

[Wayne 962]

Did you loosen up the chain tensioners? It will be very difficult (impossible?) to get it to line up with the tensioners fully installed.

-Wayne