Failed DMV emmisions test

[newlife]

Hello,

I am new to the forum. I have a 2000 Boxter S, 40,000 miles, I live in Alpine CA 91901. I had a CEL come on and so I disconnected the battery cable to remove the alert. Now, I can't pass a California emmisions test. The CEL came on the day after I had a pre-purchase inspection and everything came out Excellent !. The following night I removed the gas cap, just to look at it and then put it back on. The next day the CEL came on. My smog guy told me I had to reset the computer monitor and that required a specific driving cycle. I have the drive cycle instructions, which is recommended py Porsche, and there are 17 steps. Basically I have to drive the car for 23 minutes and approximately 7.5 miles. Nothing against my smog guy, but I don't feel comfortable taking the car back and forth to check and see if it may pass emissions. According to the info I received from my smog guy, I am to check the status of the Readiness Monitors, check for DTC's, correct faults, clear DTC's before beginning the drive cycle. What are DTC's ? and is there a tool I can purchase to check the issues like the Readiness Monitors, DTC's etc so I can start the drive cycle ? Or is it possible my smog guy already did these things for me and the car is ready for the drive cycle ?

Thanks again for your comments

Rod

[JFP in PA]

When you disconnected the battery, you reset the DME. As your emissions test includes running an “I/M Readiness” diagnostic, it found one or more sensors “not ready” because the car has not run sufficient cycles to allow the DME to evaluate the system. This “not ready” reading is a trap set by the EPA in the OBD II diagnostics to catch anyone that tries to clear a code just before submitting the car for inspection. Most likely, when the DME resets, you will again get a “CEL” because you did not ascertain what the problem was and fix it; so the car will fail again. Next time, get the code read and fix the problem(s).............

[newlife]

Hi JFP,

Thank you for the reply. Okay, what is your recommendation for a code reader. I guess I need to find out what happened in order to clear the CEL. And what does DME stand for ?

Thank you,

Rod

[randy_k]

Newlife, This is the most popular code reader for Porsche's. You can read and clear codes as well as get real time info on the engine while running. And other things as well.
Diagnostic Tool for Porsche | Durametric
You can sometimes find them used with one of the three vins being used. Which still leaves two vins' if you get the enthusiast package.
Diagnostic Tool for Porsche | Durametric
Check out there video demos. I bought one about 3 weeks ago. And like it allot.
Randy

[randy_k]

Forgot, Wayne sells them on this site new as well...
Randy

[thstone]

DTC is a Diagnostic Trouble Code, better known as an On-Board Diagnostics or OBD-II code. Some people simply call these "engine trouble codes".

As JFP stated, the Porsche Digital Motor Electronics (DME) or electronic engine computer needs a certain amount of time and certain number of events to monitor the engine before it can say whether everything is within the expected parameters. The 17 step list you were given was developed as an easy and relatively quick way to meet the time and events required for the DME evaluation to be "valid".

If the DME finds something out of specification, it will usually log the DTC in the DME computer memory and turn on the CEL, but the CEL is not always turned on so you can have codes in the DME with the CEL off.

The DTC's can be read out using any standard OBD-II code reader that can be purchased affordably at any auto parts store.

Your smog guy seems to be saying that your best approach would be to use a OBD-II code reader to clear any codes from the DME memory so you have a clean slate to start and then go and drive the 17 step test cycle and then check again for any DTC codes.

If there are no DTC's, then the DME evaluation will be "valid" and the car is ready for the emissions test. If there are codes or if the CEL comes on, then write them down and post the codes here and someone will give you some advice on what the code means and how best to approach fixing it.

Simply clearing the codes using the OBD-II reader will also reset the DME evaluation to "invalid" so you'll have to repeat the driving circuit again (or some equivalent driving) each time you clear the DTC's to know if the problem is fixed once and for all.

[newlife]

Okay,

Thank you to all that have responded. I am beginning to see the whole picture now. Keep in mind, the day after I hired "Black Forest Porsche" in San Diego to complete a top of the line pre-purchase inspection which came back A+, I removed the fuel cap to inspect it. I put the cap back on and did not rotate it three clicks. I was told that was most likely what set off the CEL. So, since this happened I have driven about 125 miles and the engine light has not come back on. I suppose if there is an issue that needs to be addressed, the engine light should come back on any day now, as long as I am driving. Would you all agree with this. I like the Durametric diagnostic tool, but another Porsche owner from another site recommended "Akron" for a good all around code reader. Your thoughts are really appreciated.

Thank you

Rod

[JFP in PA]

I think you mean "Actron", which is a very good general purpose OBD II scan tool, but it lacks the Porsche specificity of the Durametric system. We have and use both, depending upon what the problem is.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by newlife

Okay,

Thank you to all that have responded. I am beginning to see the whole picture now. Keep in mind, the day after I hired "Black Forest Porsche" in San Diego to complete a top of the line pre-purchase inspection which came back A+, I removed the fuel cap to inspect it. I put the cap back on and did not rotate it three clicks. I was told that was most likely what set off the CEL. So, since this happened I have driven about 125 miles and the engine light has not come back on. I suppose if there is an issue that needs to be addressed, the engine light should come back on any day now, as long as I am driving. Would you all agree with this. I like the Durametric diagnostic tool, but another Porsche owner from another site recommended "Akron" for a good all around code reader. Your thoughts are really appreciated.

Thank you

Rod

I have heard a few good things about Black Forest so I would not be concerned about your PPI. Durametric is the way to go for diagnostic, but you will need a laptop also. In CA the seller is required to provide the buyer with a smog certificate from a recently passed inspection.

[johnnywishbone]

Originally Posted by newlife

Okay,

Thank you to all that have responded. I am beginning to see the whole picture now. Keep in mind, the day after I hired "Black Forest Porsche" in San Diego to complete a top of the line pre-purchase inspection which came back A+, I removed the fuel cap to inspect it. I put the cap back on and did not rotate it th..........

Thank you

Rod

my 1978 930 lives in alpine california. i use the best mechanics available, black forest and dieters. NEVER a problem.

[newlife]

Oh my God !!!! that is a very bad ass.... Thanks for the reply...

Rod

[mdrips]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

In CA the seller is required to provide the buyer with a smog certificate from a recently passed inspection.

It's only been 3 weeks since I bought my Boxster here in CA and I didn't get a smog certificate...

[newlife]

Hello,

Okay, I took the advice of JFP in PA and purchased an Actron OBDII Pocket Scan for $65.00 at Auto Zone in San Diego. I hooked it up to the DME turned the key to "on" and this is what I got... (also the car has been sitting for 9 hours with-out running, so its cold"

0 codes
MIL off
Monitors
3 Inc
Catalyst
Evap
Sec Air
5 ready
Misfire
Fuel
Comp
02Snsr
02Htr

After that, on the advise from my "Black Forest Mechanic", I took the car out for a 20 minute drive. Stop and go traffic, top speed 53 mph, slowest speed 5mph. After returning home I checked the DME again and this is what I got... (Also, I did run the car with the pocket code attached per the Actron instructions for checking the MIL.)

2 codes
P1128
P1130
MIL off
Monitors
2 Inc
Catlyst
Sec Air
6 ready
Evap
Misfire
Fuel
Comp
02 Snsr
02 Htr

Your comments are appreciated with respect to the data I have compiled.

Thank you,

Rod

[newlife]

Hi Mdrips,

My seller had it smogged in July of 2010. In California if it hasn't been smogged with-in 90 days from purchase date, then it has to be smogged again. This whole thing was my screw up. But I'm learning !

Thanks

Rod

[Wayne 962]

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold
P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

Seems like the car is running rich. I'm not sure if you did this, but you might want to reseat the gas cap, and reset the codes and run the car again?

-Wayne

[mikefocke]

Always post the year and model of the car, the location and the P codes and those who have the factory docs will often give you the full set of possibilities.

P1128/1130 Fuel/air mixture is so lean that the control is up
to the enrichment limit.
– Air intake leaking.
– Fuel pressure too low.
– Fuel injectors contaminated (carbonized).
- Fuel supply volume too low.

Since the car just had a PPI and just had its gas cap loose...follow the last touched theory of troubleshooting. Gas cap secured. Codes cleared. Drive for a bit. Reread.

If continuing problem, look at exhaust (air getting into the exhaust system ahead of the sensors) but more likely the air intake before the throttle body. Someone doing some inspection knock something loose? Next test fuel pressure. Dump some Techron in and see if that helps clean the injectors (but then change oil soon after that tank and the next fill are consumed).

[seventythree]

Don't mean to hi-jack the technical nature of this thread, but just because it's been 3 days, or 3 weeks, since you purchased the car, the seller is not off the hook. It's still the seller's responsibility to smog the vehicle so a transfer of ownership can be completed.

Good luck

[Wayne 962]

Originally Posted by seventythree

Don't mean to hi-jack the technical nature of this thread, but just because it's been 3 days, or 3 weeks, since you purchased the car, the seller is not off the hook. It's still the seller's responsibility to smog the vehicle so a transfer of ownership can be completed.

Good luck

seventythree is right, a point I forgot about. It is technically illegal to sell the car without having the smog done on it - it's the seller's responsibility. If you were to take him to court, you would be able to reverse the sale. I'm not sure if you can recoup smog-related repairs along with any legal fees from the seller, but I do know that the sale becomes invalid. You also can't waive this in a bill of sale (can't put down "buyer needs to smog the car" - that's just not legal).

So, bottomline is that the seller is on the hook to smog the car or he had to take the car back. Plain and simple, but most people don't know this. Oh, this is for the state of California.

-Wayne

[newlife]

Thank you for all the great advice. Also, Wayne... just got 101 Projects for Porsche Boxter in the mail. Great service, it got here in 3 days.

Thanks !!!

Rod

[newlife]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply. The highest octane gas I am finding in the small town I live in is 91. I think Porsche recommends 94 or something higher. Is this a big deal ?
Rod