Boxster Intermediate Shaft Issue, the last issue

[ADJUSTRITE]

I sold my Boxster S due to the intermediate shaft failure issue. I must tell you first that I have owned over a dozen Porsches dating back to 1969. Several 356's, a couple of 912's and 914's as well as two 911's but enough is enough. I had the ignition switch go bad, the rear seal, a leak in the side door seal that took out the computer behind the rear seat and finally a top motor that went bad. I cannot afford to lose an engine.

My friends have Miata's that go forever and are as fast as my Boxster in an autocross. I have to say that I am going to the dark side and buying a Miata.

I can only hope that the Porsche upper people occasionally look at these posts and in their next meeting go DUH!!!! We need to fix out issues...people are tired of them.

[chamilun]

I wouldnt be caught dead in a miata. Is it for your gf or yourself?

just kidding.


sort of

[ADJUSTRITE]

My car before the S was a 79SC. It was a blast to drive but electrical gremlins got to it as it aged but hey, it was 26 years old when I sold it and the engine ran great. I hear people defending Porsche as it is such a great driving car. It is but the world has caught up.

My first 356 was a 64 356SC purchased in 1971. I paid $800 for it used and it was in great shape except for rust was starting on the floor. I drove it in upstate NY. It was great in the snow, a ball to drive and was as reliable as a VW Bug. I could fix anything that went wrong and it did not break the bank on parts prices. Rust took that one out but it had 130,000 plus miles on it when I sold it for $600.

I can remember one of my buddies who owned an american slug drove my car. He kept moving the steering wheel and was weaving down the road. He finally figured out that the steering was just a tad tighter than his Buick and adjusted to it. People forget how poorly the 60's american cars were. Yes they were fast in a straight line but they would not stop or turn. Drive a new Cad CTS-V, it is unbelievable.

I just want Porsche to fix their stuff and own up to some of their mistakes. I am not holding my breath though.

[mikefocke]

ago were your cars that gave you problems?

And you remember fondly rustbuckets? I guess time has a way of washing away bad memories and enhancing good ones. (I had rust problems after 2 years on my 914 and reliability problems too but judged buying the Boxster on what was contemporary to it.)

Porsche tried several times to fix the IMS? Gee, it was designed how long ago? 20 years.

I had more problems that were serious $$$ consumers in a Nissan, an Acura and a Honda of the same era and miles as my 2 986s. My Boxsters were both more reliable and cheaper to maintain (yea even with 9 quarts of oil and N-rated PS2s).

(Am a fan of Mazda, bought 2 and both were very good cars. I couldn't fit in a Miata.)

[ADJUSTRITE]

Yes Porsche tried to fix the shaft but could still care less about owners who have the car now. At least set up an exchange program with reman engines (with the correct fix) at a reasonable cost. The price of the engine right now from Porsche costs as much as a good used Boxster.

[jesiv]

I agree quality reasonably priced remanufactured engines would be great. 20k for a Porsche crate motor is twice what some of the cars are worth

[mikefocke]

Keeping production open for a could-be-16-year-old engine? Small volume production carries enormous overheads (my overhead was easily 15 times the costs of the materials, not uncommon). And selling a replacement comes with potential warranty costs even after the sale.

I made the argument about 7 years ago that it would be smart marketing for Porsche to have a swap out program. But there is a limit. Boxsters of the IMS era are seldom owned by the original owner and almost all are long long since out of warranty (unless they were CPO cars). Yes Porsche turned some off from the brand because they didn't fix the problem. I presume that was a business decision Porsche made. And yes we owners who sold after the issue was known paid in increased depreciation.

The current cost of these cars means you have a car that probably will never be collectable. You took a gamble as you do on any car. You probably paid less for taking that risk.

I've replaced a transmission and an engine (not Porsches) and in both cases used an independent and didn't collect a dime from a manufacturer even though both causes were well known, common and one even the subject of a recall. After a period of time, the manufacturer is off the hook.

All parts wear or age, good luck on your next car purchase.

But statistically, it isn't as bad as some on the Internet make it out to be and they are wonderful cars. You just know more about potential issues because we care so much about the cars.

[Chuey]

When I read the comment about the 356 being as reliable as a VW that hit home. That is why I started looking into a Boxster. I bought a magazine called "How to shop for a used Porsche" by Excellence magazine. In the section about Boxsters, it said that one should replace the coolant pump every 40K miles because the plastic impeller can break up, sending plastic shards throughout the engine. That, and the IMS issue have cooled me toward the cars. I still love the way they look and I'd still like to take my sweetie on some nice drives in a convertible.

I fully understand what the original poster is saying about the Mazda Miata. They come out smelling pretty reliable.

I guess I can understand that it costs more to own a Porsche but it shouldn't be because they have endemic problems that the factory kept putting into the cars. It is easy to understand when a given car has an issue in the first one or two years of production but that kind of thing is usually resolved in subsequent production years. Also, if it's something that's easy to replace, that changes things. A mechanic told me it costs about two grand to replace the coolant pump. But, then again, he is the same one who told me it costs about four grand to replace the IMS bearing. The Excellence buying guide said it costs about twenty two hundred to do the IMS bearing.

Chuey

[LARRY SHARP]

It is all good till you find out the early Miata engines also broke cranks. But then they are always much cheaper than a Porsche. To each their own.

[BYprodriver]

This tired, old, subject has more reruns than "I Love Lucy"

[Cajundaddy]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

This tired, old, subject has more reruns than "I Love Lucy"

Yep. Every car has issues of one sort or another. 914- rusted out pan/fluky fuel injection, early 911- rusted out body, 911sc- failed head bolts/ign failure, Carrera- emission control issues, 993- twin plug ign issues, Lexus/Toyota- stuck throttle, and the veritable bulletproof Miata:

Things That Fail on a Miata

Shortnose crank -- Improper timing belt replacement may lead to catastrophic failure. The Garage has articles giving a detailed description (Miata Crankshafts) and explaining the "Loctite Fix (http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html)".

Cooling system -- The cooling system has little "margin". Larger and all-metal radiators are an improvement. Check hoses for deterioration, especially those connecting to the heater core. The Garage has articles to help you troubleshoot (Cooling System Problems) your cooling system, replace (Replacing the Miata Radiator) your radiator, wire your fans in parallel (Parallel Fan Operation), as well as a general cooling overview (Miata Cooling System).

CAS oil leak -- CAS O-ring will inevitably fail and drip oil onto heater hoses, causing premature and sometimes spectacular failure. The Garage has articles on the replacement (1 (Crank-angle sensor oil seal replacement) 2 (CAS O Ring Change)).

Heater hose nipples (engine bay side of firewall) -- easily damaged item, use caution when replacing heater hoses.

Rocker panel rust -- The proper fix for rust in this structural area of the car is to weld in new sheet metal. The Garage has an article (Your Miata Could Be Rusting ).

Reverse light switch -- Failure is common in early models and may prevent the car from going into reverse gear.

Door mirror bolt -- The bolts holding on the manual door-mounted mirrors will corrode with time and fail when you adjust the mirror.

Water damage to ECU -- floor-mounted ECUs in 90-93 models prone to water damage.

"Heavy keys syndrome" -- Having a heavy set of keys hang on the ignition for years seems to foul up the ability to start reliably.

Wear on lower B-pillar of ragtop -- May lead to a hole in your top. Fixed with addition of a clip by recall in '90. (TSB 007/90 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

Regular Maintenance Items

Brake caliper slider pins -- Even lubing these each year ends up with them drier and stiffer by the next season. Consider lubing a couple times per year, particularly if you drive hard.

Spark plugs & wires -- replace by 20Kmi, for better firing, as the Miata seems to "eat" wires. The factory-recommended NGK "blue" wires and BKR5E-11 plugs to work very well.

Crud in the wheel well body panel -- Gunk and leaves should be pulled (flushed) from inside the body panel immediately behind the front wheel wells on a regular basis.

Clogged drain holes -- Clean your drain holes by poking up from underneath the car. You may need to enlarge them, as water will accumulate (sloshing noise heard while driving) and cause rust. (TSB 034/94 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

Shocks -- Most NAs have probably exceeded the life of the original factory shocks. The Garage tells you how to replace them (1 (Miata Shock removal) 2 (Installing the Suspension Upgrade) 3 (Shock Replacement))

Suspension bushings -- A replacement item, all 22 of them. The Garage has an article (Polyurethane Bushing Install).

Upper and lower shift boots -- almost always torn or cracked. Rubbing both sides with talcum powder on replacement should extend their otherwise short lifetime. The Garage has an article (Shifter boot replacement instructions).

Oil filter -- Terrible location stock: easiest to access from the RH wheel well, by reaching up and forward, preferably with the wheel off. Filter relocation kits are common. The Garage has an article (Oil Change for Novies).

Clutch slave & master cylinders -- require replacement rather frequently. The Garage has articles on how to repair (Clutch Master Cylinder Repair and Bleeding) the master cylinder, and how to replace (Miata Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement) the slave.


Interior Complaints

Slow power windows -- keep the rubber tracks well-lubed with silicone paste or similar, clean and re-tin the contacts on the switches. There are articles in the Garage on lubing the windows (1 (LUBRICATING MIATA DOOR WINDOWS) 2 (Miata Window TLC)), and on cleaning the switch (1 (Cleaning Power Window Switch) 2 (Slow Power Windows) 3 (Repair slow power windows)).

Door panels -- The cardboard panels under the panel upholstery is weak, allowing the little clips/nubs to break off and fail to continue holding the panel to the door. This causes rattles over time.

Droopy HVAC "eyeball" vents -- Vents begin to point down with age, but can be easily fixed. The Garage has articles (1 (How to Restore Worn Vent Controls) 2 (Eyeball Vents)).

OEM radio humidity issues -- OEM radio may not turn on in certain humidity conditions. The Garage has an article (Radio Fix).

Headrest speaker issues -- Headrest speakers may be out of phase, leading to terrible sound quality. The Garage has an article (Tips from the Garage - Audio), and Jeff Anderson has posted a wiring diagram (http://www.miataforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=27;t=000099).

MSSS CD Skipping -- Stock MSSS CD player skips excessively. The Garage has an article (MSSS Skip Fix).

Broken steering column cover - Plastic tabs holding heavy metal steering column cover break off easily, dropping cover onto driver's knees/lap. Velcro, large washers, and other fixes exist in the Interior forums.

General Annoyances

HLA noise -- Tapping during startup or after hard driving. Some noise may be normal, but fixes exist, including engine flushes and oil weight changes. Too many solutions exist to be condensed into this document.

Rattles -- exhaust heat shields tend to rattle. Firewall grommets for the heater hoses wear out, causing noise at 2500 RPM, especially in 1st gear. Passenger seat may rattle against cockpit brace if the seat is reclined too far. The Garage has an article (miata noises).

Wimpy horn -- aftermarket upgrades, either electronic or pneumatic, exist. The Garage has articles (1 (Horns, Mirrors, etc.) 2 (Air Horn Installation in a '94 Miata)).

2nd gear engagement is stiff -- Particularly on colder mornings, the 1-2 shift is tight/stiff. Not necessarily synchro abuse, not completely solve with fluids.

Tire/wheel balance -- Getting a full "road force" balancing on Hunter GSP-9700 equipment seems to be the most-reliable at helping to eliminate the infamous 65mph shimmy.

Top boot cover flaps in the wind -- Use the tie-downs on each side of the boot cover properly to help avoid billowing. Also see diagrams and suggestions in the Garage article (Solving That Boot Tie-Down Problem)

White paint -- paint separates from primer on early white cars, leading to widespread paint flaking.

Clutch squeal at idle -- Not related to the throwout bearing, but may sound similar. Noise is not heard when the clutch is depressed. (TSB 003/95 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))


All cars have issues. The IMS retrofit is a cheap and easy fix compared to many other cars from both Porsche and other marks. If you will sleep better at night, have it done and enjoy the car... or not

[ADJUSTRITE]

I was going to let this go but the extent of the over the top response from the last person requires me to take the time. The “PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor” who responded to my post must be receiving subsides from Porsche to spend so much time to ditz a Miata.

FIRST OF ALL, I was and still am a strong supporter of Porsche stuff....Just not the newer philosophy. What has got me going is how oblivious people have been about what Porsche was trying to do to them. They do not want you to work on you car or anyone else besides a Porsche dealer (most other carriers would prefer you do not too but Porsche took it to a new level).

Nearly every one in the industry uses a standard computer interface that gives you codes. But no, Porsche encrypted theirs in an attempt to stop everyone from working on your own car. But wait, they ticked off a computer guru in the NW and he was so mad that he created Durametric. I am sure the high ups at Porsche were not real pleased that a computer person was able to hack what they thought would drive everyone forever to the dealer...Sorry Porsche...Spend another gazillion dollars and try to do it again.

The “Porsche instructor” points out a bunch of problems with Miata's. Yes, the early ones had some issues which he lists out. The crankshaft being the biggest of them. The difference is that the problem occurred in the very early models, 1990-1993. Guess what, they fixed it. GONE. Period. Should I mention again the IMS problem...1997 until 2009....12 years....DUH..... Sorry I am not buying it.

After you get past the 1993 models, the issues pretty much went away. Oh wait... the door mirror bolt, lubricating the disk brake pad . Lets actually look at what he wrote. VERBATIM, I pasted in his post.

Things That Fail on a Miata

YES 1990 – 1993 CARS ONLY
Shortnose crank -- Improper timing belt replacement may lead to catastrophic failure. The Garage has articles giving a detailed description (Miata Crankshafts) and explaining the "Loctite Fix (http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html)".

I LIVE IN SW FLORIDA, READ HOT. NOT A PROBLEM HERE. THE ARTICLE YOU REFER TO IS A CAR WITH 100,000 MILES ON IT THAT OBVIOUSLY HAD NEVER BEEN FLUSHED OR CHANGED.
Cooling system -- The cooling system has little "margin". Larger and all-metal radiators are an improvement. Check hoses for deterioration, especially those connecting to the heater core. The Garage has articles to help you troubleshoot (Cooling System Problems) your cooling system, replace (Replacing the Miata Radiator) your radiator, wire your fans in parallel (Parallel Fan Operation), as well as a general cooling overview (Miata Cooling System).

THE SEAL COST $3.50 AS LISTED IN THE ARTICLE. SPECTACULAR FAILURE?????
CAS oil leak -- CAS O-ring will inevitably fail and drip oil onto heater hoses, causing premature and sometimes spectacular failure. The Garage has articles on the replacement (1 (Crank-angle sensor oil seal replacement) 2 (CAS O Ring Change)).*

DUH GEE DO IT RIGHT
Heater hose nipples (engine bay side of firewall) -- easily damaged item, use caution when replacing heater hoses.

I LIVE IN FL, THERE IS NO RUST HERE
Rocker panel rust -- The proper fix for rust in this structural area of the car is to weld in new sheet metal. The Garage has an article (Your Miata Could Be Rusting*).

OMG A REVERE SWITCH...DO YOU REALLY WANT WE TO QUOTE THE COST OF THAT PART.
reverse light switch -- Failure is common in early models and may prevent the car from going into reverse gear.

A DOOR MIRROR BOLT OMG AGAIN, THIS WILL BREAK THE BANK
Door mirror bolt -- The bolts holding on the manual door-mounted mirrors will corrode with time and fail when you adjust the mirror.

EARLY MODELS ONLY, YOU ARE MAKING MY CASE HERE
Water damage to ECU -- floor-mounted ECUs in 90-93 models prone to water damage.

SERIOUSLY
"Heavy keys syndrome" -- Having a heavy set of keys hang on the ignition for years seems to foul up the ability to start reliably.

1990????
Wear on lower B-pillar of ragtop -- May lead to a hole in your top. Fixed with addition of a clip by recall in '90. (TSB 007/90 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

Regular Maintenance Items

FREE OR $.12 CENTS IN LUBE
Brake caliper slider pins -- Even lubing these each year ends up with them drier and stiffer by the next season. Consider lubing a couple times per year, particularly if you drive hard.

I DO NOT AGREE BUT EVEN IF IT IS TRUE WHAT ARE WE TALKING ABOUT $40.00 AND 15 MINUTES..
Spark plugs & wires -- replace by 20Kmi, for better firing, as the Miata seems to "eat" wires. The factory-recommended NGK "blue" wires and BKR5E-11 plugs to work very well.

CLEAN YOUR CAR
Crud in the wheel well body panel -- Gunk and leaves should be pulled (flushed) from inside the body panel immediately behind the front wheel wells on a regular basis.

CLEAN YOUR CAR
Clogged drain holes -- Clean your drain holes by poking up from underneath the car. You may need to enlarge them, as water will accumulate (sloshing noise heard while driving) and cause rust. (TSB 034/94 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

THIS CAR HAD 100,000 MILES ON IT, YES YOU NEED SHOCKS.
you how to replace them (1 (Miata Shock removal) 2 (Installing the Suspension Upgrade) 3 (Shock Replacement))

THIS CAR ALSO HAD 100,000 MILES ON IT,
Suspension bushings -- A replacement item, all 22 of them. The Garage has an article (Polyurethane Bushing Install).

SHIFT BOOTS, THE LEATHER THAT COVERS THE CONSOLE....OMG... HOW WILL I GET TO WORK.....
Upper and lower shift boots -- almost always torn or cracked. Rubbing both sides with talcum powder on replacement should extend their otherwise short lifetime. The Garage has an article (Shifter boot replacement instructions).

DUH PORSCHE... MID ENGINE...REMOVE TOP TO GET AT ANYTHING....
Oil filter -- Terrible location stock: easiest to access from the RH wheel well, by reaching up and forward, preferably with the wheel off. Filter relocation kits are common. The Garage has an article (Oil Change for Novies).

WOW, THAT'S A BIG DOLLAR ITEM....
Clutch slave & master cylinders -- require replacement rather frequently. The Garage has articles on how to repair (Clutch Master Cylinder Repair and Bleeding) the master cylinder, and how to replace (Miata Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement) the slave.


Interior Complaints

OMG LUBE MY WINDOWS. HOW ABOUT WHEN THE BATTERY GOES DEAD IN MY BOXTER AND I CANNOT OPEN HOOD TO JUMP THE BATTERY. SOLUTION, TRICKLE CHARGE THE BATTERY VIA THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER AND WAIT.

Slow power windows -- keep the rubber tracks well-lubed with silicone paste or similar, clean and re-tin the contacts on the switches. There are articles in the Garage on lubing the windows (1 (LUBRICATING MIATA DOOR WINDOWS) 2 (Miata Window TLC)), and on cleaning the switch (1 (Cleaning Power Window Switch) 2 (Slow Power Windows) 3 (Repair slow power windows)).

GET WE GET A LITTLE MORE PICKY
Door panels -- The cardboard panels under the panel upholstery is weak, allowing the little clips/nubs to break off and fail to continue holding the panel to the door. This causes rattles over time.

EASILY FIXED AS NOTED IN THE POST
Droopy HVAC "eyeball" vents -- Vents begin to point down with age, but can be easily fixed. The Garage has articles (1 (How to Restore Worn Vent Controls) 2 (Eyeball Vents)).

WHAT????
OEM radio humidity issues -- OEM radio may not turn on in certain humidity conditions. The Garage has an article (Radio Fix).

MOST OF THE HIGHER MODELS HAVE BOSE. LAST TIME I CHECKED, THEY WERE RATED QUITE HIGH.
Headrest speaker issues -- Headrest speakers may be out of phase, leading to terrible sound quality. The Garage has an article (Tips from the Garage - Audio), and Jeff Anderson has posted a wiring diagram (http://www.miataforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=27;t=000099).

AS COMPARED TO MY RADIO WHICH IS HAD A CODE IN IT. WHEN THE BATTERY WENT DEAD, OH...GO TO THE DEALER, THEY WILL FIX IT (FREE..I DON't THINK SO)

MSSS CD Skipping -- Stock MSSS CD player skips excessively. The Garage has an article (MSSS Skip Fix).

HOW THE HECK DO YOU BREAK A STEERING COLUMN COVER...I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS ON ANY MIATA
Broken steering column cover - Plastic tabs holding heavy metal steering column cover break off easily, dropping cover onto driver's knees/lap. Velcro, large washers, and other fixes exist in the Interior forums.

I HAVE TO SPLIT UP THIS POST AS THERE A SIZE LIMIT, PLEASE SEE THE NEXT POST.

[ADJUSTRITE]

CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS POST General Annoyances

NOT EVEN SURE I UNDERSTAND YOUR POINT BUT I DOUBT IT IS THE SAME AS AN IMS FAILURE
HLA noise -- Tapping during startup or after hard driving. Some noise may be normal, but fixes exist, including engine flushes and oil weight changes. Too many solutions exist to be condensed into this document.

RODE IN A 2004 THE OTHER DAY WITH 90K ON IT, NOT A SQUEAK OR RATTLE
Rattles -- exhaust heat shields tend to rattle. Firewall grommets for the heater hoses wear out, causing noise at 2500 RPM, especially in 1st gear. Passenger seat may rattle against cockpit brace if the seat is reclined too far. The Garage has an article (miata noises).

OMG REALLY
Wimpy horn -- aftermarket upgrades, either electronic or pneumatic, exist. The Garage has articles (1 (Horns, Mirrors, etc.) 2 (Air Horn Installation in a '94 Miata)).

NEVER HEARD THIS FROM ANYONE SEE HOW LITTLE THEY GET ON EBAY FOR USED TRANSMISSIONS
2nd gear engagement is stiff -- Particularly on colder mornings, the 1-2 shift is tight/stiff. Not necessarily synchro abuse, not completely solve with fluids.

MIATA MUST HAVE SPECIAL WHEELS AND TIRES THAT ARE DIFFERENT THAT THE REST OF THE ENTIRE WORLD.... NOT....
Tire/wheel balance -- Getting a full "road force" balancing on Hunter GSP-9700 equipment seems to be the most-reliable at helping to eliminate the infamous 65mph shimmy.

ANOTHER BIG DOLLAR STOP YOUR CAR PROBLEM
Top boot cover flaps in the wind -- Use the tie-downs on each side of the boot cover properly to help avoid billowing. Also see diagrams and suggestions in the Garage article (Solving That Boot Tie-Down Problem)

ONLY WHITE... YOU REALLY MUST HAVE IT IN FOR MIATAS
White paint -- paint separates from primer on early white cars, leading to widespread paint flaking.

DO NOT HAVE FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE WITH THIS BUT HEY....WHAT WOULD IT COST, A NEW CLUTCH IN THE WORST CASE.
Clutch squeal at idle -- Not related to the throwout bearing, but may sound similar. Noise is not heard when the clutch is depressed. (TSB 003/95 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

SO LETS COMPARE THIS TO THE IMS PROBLEM. A NEW ENGINE FROM PORSCHE...LET ME THINK...”FORGET ABOUT IT”. A REMAN...NOT MUCH BETTER. A USED ENGINE. SAME ISSUE.

IF MEMORY SERVERS ME, MY COMPUTER GETTING WET FROM THE LEAK COST ME $2300 FROM PORSCHE IN SARASOTA, FL. THE IGNITION SWITCH WOULD BE CHEAP WERE IT NOT FOR THE FACT THAT THE DEALER HAS TO CODE THE LOCK. YEA THAT'S REAL CHEAP. THE REAR SEAL WAS CHEAP EXCEPT FOR THE LABOR TO R&R THE TRANS AND CLUTCH FROM THE DEALER. THE CONVERTIBLE TOP MOTOR, WELL THAT WAS REAL INEXPENSIVE ALSO.

I was going to let this go but the extent of the over the top response from the last person requires me to take the time. The “PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor” who responded to my post must be receiving subsides from Porsche to spend so much time to ditz a Miata.

FIRST OF ALL, I was and still am a strong supporter of Porsche stuff....Just not the newer philosophy. What has got me going is how oblivious people have been about what Porsche was trying to do to them. They do not want you to work on you car or anyone else besides a Porsche dealer (most other carriers would prefer you do not too but Porsche took it to a new level).

Nearly every one in the industry uses a standard computer interface that gives you codes. But no, Porsche encrypted theirs in an attempt to stop everyone from working on your own car. But wait, they ticked off a computer guru in the NW and he was so mad that he created Durametric. I am sure the high ups at Porsche were not real pleased that a computer person was able to hack what they thought would drive everyone forever to the dealer...Sorry Porsche...Spend another gazillion dollars and try to do it again.

The “Porsche instructor” points out a bunch of problems with Miata's. Yes, the early ones had some issues which he lists out. The crankshaft being the biggest of them. The difference is that the problem occurred in the very early models, 1990-1993. Guess what, they fixed it. GONE. Period. Should I mention again the IMS problem...1997 until 2009....12 years....DUH..... Sorry I am not buying it.

After you get past the 1993 models, the issues pretty much went away. Oh wait... the door mirror bolt, lubricating the disk brake pad . Lets actually look at what he wrote. VERBATIM, I pasted in his post.

Things That Fail on a Miata

YES 1990 – 1993 CARS ONLY
Shortnose crank -- Improper timing belt replacement may lead to catastrophic failure. The Garage has articles giving a detailed description (Miata Crankshafts) and explaining the "Loctite Fix (http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html)".

I LIVE IN SW FLORIDA, READ HOT. NOT A PROBLEM HERE. THE ARTICLE YOU REFER TO IS A CAR WITH 100,000 MILES ON IT THAT OBVIOUSLY HAD NEVER BEEN FLUSHED OR CHANGED.
Cooling system -- The cooling system has little "margin". Larger and all-metal radiators are an improvement. Check hoses for deterioration, especially those connecting to the heater core. The Garage has articles to help you troubleshoot (Cooling System Problems) your cooling system, replace (Replacing the Miata Radiator) your radiator, wire your fans in parallel (Parallel Fan Operation), as well as a general cooling overview (Miata Cooling System).

THE SEAL COST $3.50 AS LISTED IN THE ARTICLE. SPECTACULAR FAILURE?????
CAS oil leak -- CAS O-ring will inevitably fail and drip oil onto heater hoses, causing premature and sometimes spectacular failure. The Garage has articles on the replacement (1 (Crank-angle sensor oil seal replacement) 2 (CAS O Ring Change)).*

DUH GEE DO IT RIGHT
Heater hose nipples (engine bay side of firewall) -- easily damaged item, use caution when replacing heater hoses.

I LIVE IN FL, THERE IS NO RUST HERE
Rocker panel rust -- The proper fix for rust in this structural area of the car is to weld in new sheet metal. The Garage has an article (Your Miata Could Be Rusting*).

OMG A REVERE SWITCH...DO YOU REALLY WANT WE TO QUOTE THE COST OF THAT PART.
reverse light switch -- Failure is common in early models and may prevent the car from going into reverse gear.

A DOOR MIRROR BOLT OMG AGAIN, THIS WILL BREAK THE BANK
Door mirror bolt -- The bolts holding on the manual door-mounted mirrors will corrode with time and fail when you adjust the mirror.

EARLY MODELS ONLY, YOU ARE MAKING MY CASE HERE
Water damage to ECU -- floor-mounted ECUs in 90-93 models prone to water damage.

SERIOUSLY
"Heavy keys syndrome" -- Having a heavy set of keys hang on the ignition for years seems to foul up the ability to start reliably.

1990????
Wear on lower B-pillar of ragtop -- May lead to a hole in your top. Fixed with addition of a clip by recall in '90. (TSB 007/90 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

Regular Maintenance Items

FREE OR $.12 CENTS IN LUBE
Brake caliper slider pins -- Even lubing these each year ends up with them drier and stiffer by the next season. Consider lubing a couple times per year, particularly if you drive hard.

I DO NOT AGREE BUT EVEN IF IT IS TRUE WHAT ARE WE TALKING ABOUT $40.00 AND 15 MINUTES..
Spark plugs & wires -- replace by 20Kmi, for better firing, as the Miata seems to "eat" wires. The factory-recommended NGK "blue" wires and BKR5E-11 plugs to work very well.

CLEAN YOUR CAR
Crud in the wheel well body panel -- Gunk and leaves should be pulled (flushed) from inside the body panel immediately behind the front wheel wells on a regular basis.

CLEAN YOUR CAR
Clogged drain holes -- Clean your drain holes by poking up from underneath the car. You may need to enlarge them, as water will accumulate (sloshing noise heard while driving) and cause rust. (TSB 034/94 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

THIS CAR HAD 100,000 MILES ON IT, YES YOU NEED SHOCKS.
you how to replace them (1 (Miata Shock removal) 2 (Installing the Suspension Upgrade) 3 (Shock Replacement))

THIS CAR ALSO HAD 100,000 MILES ON IT,
Suspension bushings -- A replacement item, all 22 of them. The Garage has an article (Polyurethane Bushing Install).

SHIFT BOOTS, THE LEATHER THAT COVERS THE CONSOLE....OMG... HOW WILL I GET TO WORK.....
Upper and lower shift boots -- almost always torn or cracked. Rubbing both sides with talcum powder on replacement should extend their otherwise short lifetime. The Garage has an article (Shifter boot replacement instructions).

DUH PORSHE... MID ENGINE...REMOVE TOP TO GET AT ANYTHING....
Oil filter -- Terrible location stock: easiest to access from the RH wheel well, by reaching up and forward, preferably with the wheel off. Filter relocation kits are common. The Garage has an article (Oil Change for Novies).

WOW, THAT'S A BIG DOLLAR ITEM....
Clutch slave & master cylinders -- require replacement rather frequently. The Garage has articles on how to repair (Clutch Master Cylinder Repair and Bleeding) the master cylinder, and how to replace (Miata Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement) the slave.


Interior Complaints

OMG LUBE MY WINDOWS. HOW ABOUT WHEN THE BATTERY GOES DEAD IN MY BOXTER AND I CANNOT OPEN HOOD TO JUMP THE BATTERY. SOLUTION, TRICKLE CHARGE THE BATTERY VIA THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER AND WAIT.

Slow power windows -- keep the rubber tracks well-lubed with silicone paste or similar, clean and re-tin the contacts on the switches. There are articles in the Garage on lubing the windows (1 (LUBRICATING MIATA DOOR WINDOWS) 2 (Miata Window TLC)), and on cleaning the switch (1 (Cleaning Power Window Switch) 2 (Slow Power Windows) 3 (Repair slow power windows)).

GET WE GET A LITTLE MORE PICKY
Door panels -- The cardboard panels under the panel upholstery is weak, allowing the little clips/nubs to break off and fail to continue holding the panel to the door. This causes rattles over time.

[ADJUSTRITE]

Last post please and lets drop this discussion. The remainder of the Miata comments and a note.

EASILY FIXED AS NOTED IN THE POST
Droopy HVAC "eyeball" vents -- Vents begin to point down with age, but can be easily fixed. The Garage has articles (1 (How to Restore Worn Vent Controls) 2 (Eyeball Vents)).

WHAT????
OEM radio humidity issues -- OEM radio may not turn on in certain humidity conditions. The Garage has an article (Radio Fix).

MOST OF THE HIGHER MODELS HAVE BOSE. LAST TIME I CHECKED, THEY WERE RATED QUITE HIGH.
Headrest speaker issues -- Headrest speakers may be out of phase, leading to terrible sound quality. The Garage has an article (Tips from the Garage - Audio), and Jeff Anderson has posted a wiring diagram (http://www.miataforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=27;t=000099).

AS COMPARED TO MY RADIO WHICH IS HAD A CODE IN IT. WHEN THE BATTERY WENT DEAD, OH...GO TO THE DEALER, THEY WILL FIX IT (FREE..I DON't THINK SO)

MSSS CD Skipping -- Stock MSSS CD player skips excessively. The Garage has an article (MSSS Skip Fix).

HOW THE HECK DO YOU BREAK A STEERING COLUMN COVER...I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS ON ANY MIATA
Broken steering column cover - Plastic tabs holding heavy metal steering column cover break off easily, dropping cover onto driver's knees/lap. Velcro, large washers, and other fixes exist in the Interior forums.

General Annoyances

NOT EVEN SURE I UNDERSTAND YOUR POINT BUT I DOUBT IT IS THE SAME AS AN IMS FAILURE
HLA noise -- Tapping during startup or after hard driving. Some noise may be normal, but fixes exist, including engine flushes and oil weight changes. Too many solutions exist to be condensed into this document.

RODE IN A 2004 THE OTHER DAY WITH 90K ON IT, NOT A SQUEAK OR RATTLE
Rattles -- exhaust heat shields tend to rattle. Firewall grommets for the heater hoses wear out, causing noise at 2500 RPM, especially in 1st gear. Passenger seat may rattle against cockpit brace if the seat is reclined too far. The Garage has an article (miata noises).

OMG REALLY
Wimpy horn -- aftermarket upgrades, either electronic or pneumatic, exist. The Garage has articles (1 (Horns, Mirrors, etc.) 2 (Air Horn Installation in a '94 Miata)).

NEVER HEARD THIS FROM ANYONE SEE HOW LITTLE THEY GET ON EBAY FOR USED TRANSMISSIONS
2nd gear engagement is stiff -- Particularly on colder mornings, the 1-2 shift is tight/stiff. Not necessarily synchro abuse, not completely solve with fluids.

MIATA MUST HAVE SPECIAL WHEELS AND TIRES THAT ARE DIFFERENT THAT THE REST OF THE ENTIRE WORLD.... NOT....
Tire/wheel balance -- Getting a full "road force" balancing on Hunter GSP-9700 equipment seems to be the most-reliable at helping to eliminate the infamous 65mph shimmy.

ANOTHER BIG DOLLAR STOP YOUR CAR PROBLEM
Top boot cover flaps in the wind -- Use the tie-downs on each side of the boot cover properly to help avoid billowing. Also see diagrams and suggestions in the Garage article (Solving That Boot Tie-Down Problem)

ONLY WHITE... YOU REALLY MUST HAVE IT IN FOR MIATAS
White paint -- paint separates from primer on early white cars, leading to widespread paint flaking.

DO NOT HAVE FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE WITH THIS BUT HEY....WHAT WOULD IT COST, A NEW CLUTCH IN THE WORST CASE.
Clutch squeal at idle -- Not related to the throwout bearing, but may sound similar. Noise is not heard when the clutch is depressed. (TSB 003/95 (Miata Technical Service Bulletin))

SO LETS COMPARE THIS TO THE IMS PROBLEM. A NEW ENGINE FROM PORSCHE...LET ME THINK...”FORGET ABOUT IT”. A REMAN...NOT MUCH BETTER. A USED ENGINE. SAME ISSUE.

IF MEMORY SERVERS ME, MY COMPUTER GETTING WET FROM THE LEAK COST ME $2300 FROM PORSCHE IN SARASOTA, FL. THE IGNITION SWITCH WOULD BE CHEAP WERE IT NOT FOR THE FACT THAT THE DEALER HAS TO CODE THE LOCK. YEA THAT'S REAL CHEAP. THE REAR SEAL WAS CHEAP EXCEPT FOR THE LABOR TO R&R THE TRANS AND CLUTCH FROM THE DEALER. THE CONVERTIBLE TOP MOTOR, WELL THAT WAS REAL INEXPENSIVE ALSO.

Ok one more time. I am just not happy with the current Porsche philosophy. I fully understand that when you purchase a used car you take your chances. Porsche owes you nothing except that they should build the car to last it normal lifespan without built in issues like the IMS. I also understand that design flaws happen but you cannot tell me Porsche found out about this in 2008 and fixed it in 2009. They obviously knew there was a problem.

For all you rich folks out there who write a check for your new Porsche, thank you. Because the day came when I could buy it used after it depreciated enough for me to afford it. You enjoyed it and now it was suppose to be the next owners turn. But wait, the engine craps to the tune of the cost of the car. That may not mean much to a lot of people out there but it sure does to me. I am no longer going to support a company that leaves us out in the cold. Like I said in an earlier post, do the right thing and have a sway out program that is realistically priced.

Have I purchased my last Porsche...probably. And that is really sad because I am sure I am not the only customer that they will lose this way. What bothers me is that they just do not care.....

[tcora]

Wow. Err, "thanks" ADJUSTRITE. Yeah, that's it, that's the ticket...

Sigh.

[Wayne 962]

Porsches have always been high on performance, and less on overall quality. When you push the envelope of performance, the engineering margins are thinner, and you don't have as much "room" to have things last like a Camry or something like that. Most Boxsters are driven much harder than your typical Honda, so a direct one-to-one comparison may not be appropriate. That said, I'm not sure the Porsches I've owned would go down in history as having more problems than other cars - it's just that the parts are so expensive, that they sting quite a bit more when something does actually break on them.

-Wayne

[Cajundaddy]

FYI, that post of mine above was a quick copy/paste from the Miata forum. 5 minutes tops. Yep the Miata boys sometimes complain about their cars too.

Carry on...

[chamilun]

Having owned 2 boxsters, and driven the miata several times, to compare them is...um...well...

The boxster is one of the best driver cars in the world

[ADJUSTRITE]

Totally agree, the Boxster is a great car to drive.

[The Glademister]

We compete regularly at regional SCCA autocross in a moderately prepared '99 Boxster. There are usually six to ten Miatas at those events in various stages of modification. With what we've done (IMS bearing upgrade, light weight flywheel, sports clutch, sports exhaust, short shifter, adjustable coil-over shocks with camber plates, 17" 968 wheels with spacers) we're able to consistently have better times than ALL of the Miatas. (Except for the street modified Miata with a Chevy 350 ) And that's with the stock little 2.5L flat six and a lot of weight still on the car. Of course much of this is related to driver skill but neither I or my co-driver consider ourselves pros for that matter. Now when you take that competition to a National level - it's quite different. A skilled autocrosser in a well set-up Miata can be a very formidable opponent. It's a quite capable platform and is very popular. It does not, however, have the Porsche mystique and prestige