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Burn the fire.
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My 2006 CS started running rough on my way to work yesterday, started to feel like a diesel and sounded terrible. Luckily no "metal on metal" clanking noises.
I'm perplexed as to the cause. I've heard of the cam lift/timing solenoids failing over time. I have a new set of coils & spark plugs, should I swap those in to hopefully fix the issue? I'm at a loss. the OBD2 reader I have doesn't give much insight and I don't have a workshop manual. Help?
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Burn the fire.
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*Bump*
Any insights into this? I'm hoping it's just a bad plug (or two). Anyone? Bueller?
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[x] Working | [_] Broken: 2017 Victory Octane [x] Working | [_] Broken: 2005 Ram 1500 SLT w/5.7L Hemi "Drive it like you stole it." |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Earth.............
Posts: 2,894
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Without the codes, anything would be a guess.........
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Accrochez-vous bien de vos rêves..........." |
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It could be the MAF sensor on the airbox also. Codes help narrow it down. I saw Bosch code readers they sell now at O'Reilly Auto Parts.
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'66 11-window VW Bus (Fuel-injecter'd Super-1600, IRS, disk brakes, MB CLK rims) |
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Schnell Gelb
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With no codes / no code reader, how did you diagnose misfiring on Cyl 1 & 2 ?
Just take it to Autozone.They will read the code for free but code readers are just a cheap app for your Smart Phone. If you want a stand alone reader Harber Freight sell them. Amazon.com: Bluetooth Car Code Reader Compatible with Android / Droid / Torque: Automotive OBD II & CAN Code Reader with Multilingual Menu
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2001 Boxster S Engineers muse |
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To clarify - I'm using Torque Pro with a scanner. The info I got was for the power/drivetrain codes referencing the misfires. Not much else available beyond that.
P0300 - Random Misfires P0301 - Cyl 1 Misfire P0302 - Cyl 2 Misfire P0305 - Cyl 5 Misfire I've been posting in the "symptoms of scored cylinders" thread in PPOT. Monday it escalated to sounding like rod knock. Very loud, very prominent. Pricing rebuilds now... Ugh.
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Rod knock seems pretty extreme. Could be the knock sensor, plugs, coil pack, etc. which are cheaper. Unless you see smoke out of the tailpipe, excessive oil use, or the low oil sensor light came on, that's doesn't seem likely to just develop a rod knock overnight.
It's worth taking it to a shop to pay for a thorough code pull of 1 hour labor before paying for a full-engine rebuild.
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'66 11-window VW Bus (Fuel-injecter'd Super-1600, IRS, disk brakes, MB CLK rims) |
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Burn the fire.
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I had the car towed to Hergesheimer's in Lake Forest.
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[x] Working | [_] Broken: 2017 Victory Octane [x] Working | [_] Broken: 2005 Ram 1500 SLT w/5.7L Hemi "Drive it like you stole it." |
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Updating your sig for you.
[x] Ridable | [_] Broken: 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan Custom, "Blackout" [_] Drivable | [X] Broken: 2006 Cayman S, "Speed Demon" [_] Drivable | [x] Broken: 1981 911 SC Targa, "Spike" |
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Brando - Will be interested to hear what they find.
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Burn the fire.
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Quote:
![]() Cayman is still drive-able. I took it to the Cars & Coffee event yesterday. Updated the "Symptoms of Scored Cylinders" thread in Off-Topic with the latest findings.
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[x] Working | [_] Broken: 2017 Victory Octane [x] Working | [_] Broken: 2005 Ram 1500 SLT w/5.7L Hemi "Drive it like you stole it." |
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