Installing 2008 Cayman S 3.4 987 Oil level Sender

[george rogers]

Since I was unable to find threads on any forum how to do this task much less where the sender was located I hope this helps someone out. It can be done without dropping your motor. The only images I saw of it were on motors not in the cars. I was able figure the location out because I had access to my oil level sender unit which was broken in half from the sump.

I'd suggest ordering new o-rings for the oil fill tube and Loctite 5900 for a new pan gasket seal. Any and all bolts in this process require 7.5 ft/pds and a good idea to apply some type of thread sealant that is not permanent. Pelican Parts can provide this to you. There was a delay on my order for the oil fill tube o-rings because they come from Porsche. You don't need to replace the sender units grommet in the oil sump accessible only by removing the pan unless you have damaged it or it has lots of miles on it. you won't be able to install a new oil sender without removing the oil pan and grommet bracket assy in the lube oil sump. I only have 15,300 miles on my car and did replace mine. Make sure before you attempt this work that you don't have an electrical issue causing your oil level sender to be reading inaccurately. Mine was broken in half inside the sump from the intrusion of a floor jack through the oil pan into the sump. I did a detailed write of on how to repair in this forum. This will also require the safety of disconnecting your battery since the oil level sender is very close to the starts hot wire lead thus avoiding a dry sump start.

A- Preparations. Camera, take lots of images of every step you take prior to the areas of work you are to work on. Once ready to access car to remove engine covers by using a Teflon or strong plastic flat ended tool on the covers tabs. 3 on the fwd end, one on each side and a couple on the bottom. You'll then need a torx head drive to remove the last cover. There are several web sites that show how. I put a couple blankets covering rear the body area and inside the rear trunk engine access area I was sitting in and used a ladder to step in and out of the car. Also had a light on under the car to see if I dropped anything I cold find it. The oil sender unit is located on the passenger side above cylinders #2 #3 favoring #3. Top of intake manifold just to the right of the oil fill pipe and starter.

B - Tools. Flat head screw driver or 5/16" 1/4" drive 6/12 point socket for the hose clamps used on the MAF inlet tube sleeve and two resonance tubes. I did use this 1/4" drive 5/16" socket because of limited space to get to the outer 6m bolt attaching the crankcase oil fill line. It's just fwd under the fwd resonance tube. Total 10 clamps. If possible leave them all on and loose. I removed mine (8 ea) from the resonance tubes and cleaned them only to have trouble re installing them later because of the lines that run under them kept getting inside the clamps and very tight areas to clear. E10 star socket as well for your pan bolts, oil level sender bracket bolt and the two (2) 6m like your pan to remove/install crankcase to oil fill line located attached closest to #1 cylinder on intake manifold. Flash lights, one for hands one for the head to wear or you won't see what your working on in such tight quarters. I went through a couple refills of AAA batteries on my head attachment flashlight. One (1) 3/8" drive 19mm open ended crows foot to remove the oil level sender from the top of the motor. Torqued at 22 ft/pds. or as tight as you can get it. It comes with a brass crush washer. To remove the oil sender level electrical connector keep in mind it has a different slot on each side and one side has a white dot. Press on top of conn/tabs and pull up. To re install remember it has two different slots on each side so it should slide right on.

When all done and parts put back on and secured add quarts of oil to your 3.4L motor. I waited 24 hours before starting the motor so the Loctite 5900 used on the oil pan had plenty of time to set up. Pan bolts toque is 7.5 ft/pds. Hook battery back up. Turn on the key (don't start yet) and see if the oil level monitor is working. Once it shows normal or top of operating line you know your oil level sender is working. It's your call on how long you wait to start the car up. I left my engine covers with rear lid open and let it run checking for any oil leaks or vacuum line leaks. Main thing because this is such a tight area to work in from the top of the motor take your time by taking a break now and then to stretch your legs. Thus using a step ladder like I did.

Below removing access to covers to motor.




Below one of many images taken as I worked on motor so I had a reference to fall back on.


Below a close up of clamping on resonance tubes, total of 8 each, 2 per side so would re install correctly.


Below is MAF unit. I only had to loosen the fwd leading clamps nearest the air filter. I also had to remove two (2) lines that can be pulled off and snap back into place from the oil separator. If not you can't pull the MAF tube aft or away from the motor.


Below is where I separated the oil fill tube from the plastic collar it has that snaps on/off by rolling it until it clears it slots then detaches/attaches. Then pull on the tube and it will separate at the (between sections) showing that o-ring. You can then be ready to go fwd to remove the two (2) 6m bolts from the fill tube line that is bolted to the crankcase. Keep in mind these bolts are only torqued at 7.5 ft/pd. So little effort is needed to remove. Just tight area to work in. Once removed put a clean lent free cloth into block hole. I cleaned this area off prior to removing the bolts with a shot of carb/throttle aerosol spray.


Below is the oil level sender unit accessible once I moved the fwd part of the oil fill tube back out of the way (green o-ring). Use a 19mm crows foot opened wrench on it with a 3/8" drive. Remove the electrical connection then remove by pulling up inboard and out. Re installing is the same slow process slightly flexing the plastic sender unit until it goes into the hole and may require moving around until it finds the blocks hole then tread it after you have confirmed it is in the sump by doing a visual from under the car
where pan will be re installed.


Below is the oil level sender. I hope you never have to work on. But you can know by following these steps above and being careful to safety.


Below is the fwd resonance tube and what is attached to it as well as the after MAF tube so make sure they are hooked up when putting back together.