Just bought a Boxster - 2000 base

[Rupesy]

So just bought one of these the other day and am pretty excited. 111K. I don't know much about the car there than my brother bought one new around this year. I don't have any history either, but overall seems pretty strong from what I could gather. I also have a '79 928. I do all my own work on all my cars so nothing really scares me. Looking forward to meeting everyone and getting started with a few items if I can't get figured out in the next few days. Please let me know of any good internet links that would be helpful for some DIY. I don't have the manuals so I will probably look into getting those as well one of these days.

[BER]

Rupesy,

Nice looking Boxster...congrats!

You might consider Wayne Dempsey's book, "101 Projects for your Boxster". It is sold here by our host. The Bentley manual is also a good reference for DIYers', but it is a bit more pricey than Wayne's book.

Have fun. BER

[Rupesy]

Thanks for letting me know about those.

1. First problem was a hunting idle, however, got that taken care of with a good cleaning of the throttle body and also noticed 50% of the screen before the MAF was blocked with leaves. Nice steady idle now.
2. Horn beeps once when locking with the key in the door, beeps twice if I hold it in the lock position. From what I read, the single beep means something is open. Well I have noticed that the passenger door does not lock no matter what I do (key FOB or manual locking). I read quite a bit on the subject and it looks like I might need to change out the door lock solenoid. I'm not too worried about the alarm at the moment, just would like to lock the doors. Does it seem reasonable that the passenger door is just a solenoid replacement?
3. I know there is a central locking system problem. The button on the center console doesn't lock or unlock the doors. The red light doesn't come on. When I press the key FOB, I can hear the doors lock for a second and then unlock, then 2 beeps. This looks a lot more complicated based on what I read. I'll settle for a locking passenger door if that is easy enough.
4. Radio needs a passcode. I've already ordered the keys to remove it so I can get the serial number. I was planning on getting this working before replacing the door solenoid. Thought I read somewhere you could also get a beep if the radio code isn't entered.
5. The rear air foil indicator on the dashboard stays lit even though I cycle it up and down. Seems to work fine. Any idea why that would stay on?
6. Window goes up and down when opening and closing the door, however seems a little slow. I've had to train myself to take and extra 1/2 second. It doesn't really bother me. My newer BMW is very quick. Is that just the nature of the beast or is it something that is showing signs that it needs to be replaced.
7. Needs a set of brake pads all around and probably an oil change.

Other than that everything else seems to be OK for now.

[Rupesy]

Forgot to mention that when I take the key out of the ignition, it continues to ding like either the key is in the ignition or a door light is on. If I close the door and wait a few seconds and then reopen the door, it does not chime anymore. Also looks like the digital portion of the dash stays lit for a little while after closing the door as well. Not sure if that is normal. The ignition switch seems a little tempermental so I imagine this is related to something going wrong there.

[Vipergrün]

I hope you did your due diligence on some of the 'potential' engine issues with the Boxster. You should be good with the IMS bearing since it's a 2000, they had a low failure rate. Look into the Air/Oil separator, coolant system, water pump. Drive the snot out of it and have fun!

[tonythetarga]

Originally Posted by Rupesy

Also looks like the digital portion of the dash stays lit for a little while after closing the door as well. Not sure if that is normal.

That's normal

[Scnell Gelb]

"You should be good with the IMS bearing since it's a 2000, they had a low failure rate."
I have this 'vintage'.
Depends if you have double row(good) or single row(ify). Even Porsche can't tell you from the VIN of this year which you have.Lots of threads on this issue. Just call Pelican Parts and ask.
Yours may have been replaced/upgraded (great!). You may not know until you remove the IMSB flange.
There are many other "M 96 Modes of Failure" to investigate/fret about :-).

[Rupesy]

4. bought the keys to remove the stereo and got the code via the serial number so that's taken care of.
5. rear air foil light was only coming on until I got up to about 5 mph and then goes out which looks like is normal according to the owners manual

8. Looks like I will need to replace the ignition switch as well. When I went to order it looks like there is switch available for the original locking assembly and also for an newer/upgraded one. How do I know which ignition switch I need to order? Is there an easy way to tell. I have no history on the car.

[Rupesy]

8. Replaced the ignition switch which was pretty easy. I actually pulled it out and read the part number before ordering. This took care of the issue of it still thinking the key was in the ignition after I had removed it. Interior lights and radio on/off with ignition returned to normal.
9. Hear a bunch of grinding on hard right and left turns at higher speeds. I've read that this is most likely due to the front engine mount. Anyone else have experience with this as the solution?
10. Hear a knocking/rattle noise every time I hit a seam in the pavement at slow speeds. I've read that this is most likely the control arm that looks like a tuning fork. Anyone else have experience with this as the solution?

[Rupesy]

An update:

8. Ignition switch - although it worked for a couple days, the problem would return once in a while and the key would not go back in, when I finally got it back in and took it out, it would think the key was still in the ignition again, however, this time I could mess with it until it started to work right. After some reading I found that some people used graphite or silicone spray to get the tumble to loosen up which was part of the problem. I used graphite and worked the key for a while and now everything works without a hitch. So the fix was both the ignition switch and lubricating the tumbler.

9. Grinding on hard turns - after some reading found the most common is the front motor mount. Other symptoms were banging during shifting which I noticed as well. Here is a pic of how it looked when I took it out. Previous owner was driving it this way for a long time! Anyway, installed the new one and the difference is AMAZING!

Up on jacks


Completely broken:


From rubbing:



10. Rattling - I confirmed this to be the track arm today. This price of those parts had me going back for another solution. I think I found one that my buy me some more time. When I pulled the boots off, I noticed the ball was really loose and flopped all over the place. I looked at how they assembled it and it looked like one side was pressed. I used a socket below the arm for support and one on the top to hammer and tighten up the ball and socket. I hit it until it was tough to move around which is how they usually are when you buy them. I can tell you that it solved the problem! No more rattles. I have no idea how long this will last, but I will report back after some time has passed.



11. Convertible top needs to go - got a black one instead and will get that on soon.

[chamilun]

please post when you figure out the locking issues. My 99 996 had issues, and I never got around
to sorting them

congrats on purchase

[Rupesy]

Just replaced the convertible top. Not too bad, but did take me 9 hours!

[DWBOX2000]

Wow, top looks great. Besides the time, was if difficult?

That's a great color by the way.

David

[Rupesy]

Thanks! Not too difficult, just tedious, I followed a step by step with pictures I pulled off the internet and there are instructions on pelican, not every little detail was covered, but those were not difficult to figure out, I knew black would look much better on this car because my Z4 has the same base color and black top.

[litespeedp]

Rupesy,

I have a 2000 car as well and I use RainX on the outside AND inside my side windows every few weeks to minimize the drag on our 15 year old window motors.Windows are a little quicker and it gives the motor a break!
Robert

[ghtaboma]

Did you just replace the center rubber part of the motor mount, or the whole thing?. Any hints on how to get that mount off. Thanks.

[Rupesy]

I just replaced the whole thing. I think I paid about $150 for the standard one. I believe there are other options for more money. You are only buying the half that has the bushing mounted in it (from my picture). I do believe you can just buy the bushing and press a new one in if you have the equipment or know someone. One of the most important details is to support the engine with a jack before you start to take the mount off. Otherwise the engine will drop and may seriously injure you. Anyway, you need a jack under there to drop the engine a little while working to get it out. I found a couple of very descriptive posts and only really took me about 1 hour. There is a sequence to get the bolts out and in. Be patient. You do not have to disconnect the radiator hoses, but you will need to squish them around a little. What a difference!

[Rupesy]

Well looks like I will be replacing a window regulator now on the passenger side!

[Duezzer]

Before you change the window regulator check this out

Window Regulator Repair Sleeve | EPS

Have you figured out the locking system - button on my dash does not do anything either

[SCUDERIA928]

As you stated, you don't have any history on the car. First thing I would do is flush all the fluids from the car. start using engine oil with ZINC. On my Porsches I use Liqui Molly with the zinc additive. At one time someone told me that the DRIVEN oil was the best. So DON"t USE IT!! I used it once on my engine and it blew the engine.
I have a 97 Boxster with a 3.8L a 99 with a 2.7L. My 79 928 I sold recently.