Hi Nick, Looking for some direction. Had my 2011 BMW 328i xDrive Sedan in the shop all week for an AC issue. Pressure relief valve is blowing refrigerent due to high pressure while car is idle. Over pressure is due to fan not cumming on when system reaches the pressure threshold to do so- been told that is about 240. Fan has been tested good- pressure switch has been replaced. Computer reads a static 130 after a momentary reading of 20. With test gauges connected you can watch the pressure rise past 130 till it gets so high the relief valve opens up yet the logic reading continues to stay at 130 which does not trigger the fan to engage. If you disconnect the High Pressure switch it codes for the switch. We know it is not a bad fan or bad pressure switch- It seems to be program or logic related as to how the switch is being read- again it stays at a static 130 no matter what. Any Ideas?
My wife, has a 95 320i 180,000kms, she came home the other day and the key was jammed in the ignition, it would not turn the car off, so i pulled a fuse then disconnected the battery, i have replaced the ignition switch with one out of my old 96 323i works fine, but when you get to where the key turns the motor over nothing, its like the battery is not connected or a wire off, please help.
Hi Nick. my 1997 e36 318i M44 or 43 (Australia)when I rev the engine and hit the kick down switch the engine wont idle and stalls. It has a new TPS. Wait for a bit with the engine running and it goes back to normal. It runs sweet if you don't rev it too hard and touch the kick down switch. Where do I start looking for the problem. Thanks DARRYL KELLY
Hi Nick, I keep blowing the C3 fuse. I thought the immobilzer was the problem so I had it repaired or replaced at SOS diagnostics, but the C3 fuse blows as soon as you insert it. I must have a short somewhere, so if you have the answer I'd appreciate it. I hope the box was repaired correctly or maybe it was fine to begin with, $495.00 down the drain.
After rebuilding my Midlands transmission on my 2004 Cooper, I began having charging system problems. Replaced the tensioner, belt, and alternator, ran for a few miles, then wouldn't start. The guy @ O'Reilly used a portable tester & said the battery & alternator were bad. Replaced the alternator again (under warrantee), battery and the water pump while I was in there anyway, and after driving only 10 miles, battery and alternator both checked bad again on the tester. Where do I go from here?
I noticed in the "101 Projects Discussion Forum:BMW 3 Series" section that all of the answered posts are by guest users and that none of the registered users posts have ever been answered. Are you guys not looking at registered user posts? I can't figure out how to post as a guest.
Hello Nick. I am a new member. e30 1986 325e. Have renewed both fuel pumps, and 3 x relays.
Still no flow. Car has spark and is turning over. Forums on the net suggest this is a common problem with my car. Any suggestions, sensors etc. Thanks
I have a 95 325is that had a S50 swap (with wiring harness and DME) performed but there doesn't seem to be an electrical connector from the harness or vacuum line from ??? to connect to the fuel pressure regulator/ return valve located under the driver seat on the bottom of the car. I bypassed the regulator with the hopes that the S50 has the regulator built into the fuel rail as I've "heard" and the engine will start after VERY long cranking but idles high and will abruptly stall. Check engine light at times but it's OBD1 so....
Any ideas? I'm kind of at a loss and don't have the $ to pay a tech straight time to figure it out as it's not my daily driver. ANY help will be appreciated more than an email can properly convey!
Hello Nick, I had read that there was a 101 projects book coming out for the mini, I really found the 101 projects book for my Boxster helpful, and want to get its companion for my wife's mini. I don't find it anywhere, is it out yet? If not, when might it come out?