tharbert
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Last Activity: Yesterday 07:56 AM
About Me
- About tharbert
- Biography
- Retired AF
- Location
- So. Illinois
- Interests
- Cycling
- Occupation
- Computer Support & Admin
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Signature
- 72 911T 2.4 MFI
06 Grand Touring Nissan 350Z
04 Escape XLT
04 Kaw KLR-650
10' Madone 5.2
- 72 911T 2.4 MFI
Blog
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Posted in Uncategorized
I'm tearing into the front suspension pan now. I started removing stone guard and assessing what needs to be done. I noticed a little "cake" around one of the A arm mounts on the suspension pan:
That, along with a couple pin holes next to the tow hook leads me to believe the pan is gone. Yup:
Belly of the pan = swiss cheese under the stone guard. My guess it's...
That, along with a couple pin holes next to the tow hook leads me to believe the pan is gone. Yup:
Belly of the pan = swiss cheese under the stone guard. My guess it's...
Posted in Uncategorized
OK, there simply isn't much more I can take off the body! The suspension? Out! Engine? Out! Glass? Out! Steering? Out! Car is now on my rotisserie.
The only things on the chassis are ducting and wiring. Some of the ducting comes off when I start cleaning up the rear axle area.
So, these are the things I noticed during dismantling. Matt and I had to cut one of the tie rods...
The only things on the chassis are ducting and wiring. Some of the ducting comes off when I start cleaning up the rear axle area.
So, these are the things I noticed during dismantling. Matt and I had to cut one of the tie rods...
Posted in Uncategorized
Success! The front and rear octagons are now mounted to the car. And, I have the longitudinals mounted. I ended up drilling two holes per longitudinal mounting point. This gave me a little wriggle room as, once bolted up, the octagon wasn't quite true.
The front bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch) measured 28 17/32". I drilled the holes on the front cross member and it bolted up perfectly.
...
The front bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch) measured 28 17/32". I drilled the holes on the front cross member and it bolted up perfectly.
...
Posted in Uncategorized
This past spring semester, I had a chance to take Chem180, beer and brewing. To condense the class into a sentence, it taught me everything I needed to know to go out and brew an all-grain batch of beer right out the chute…and I got an A.
My first batch was an American Pale Ale. It turned out a little bitter as the American styles normally do. And, it had a distinct off-taste but otherwise was totally drinkable. I had a small party with about 12 people and floated my 5 gallon...
My first batch was an American Pale Ale. It turned out a little bitter as the American styles normally do. And, it had a distinct off-taste but otherwise was totally drinkable. I had a small party with about 12 people and floated my 5 gallon...
Posted in Uncategorized
I literally burnt through my 22 gallon, 1.3 hp direct drive Kobalt (Lowes) compressor a few months ago. Some of the things I used with it made the pump run constantly hence it was probably abused way beyond its design limits. I was using an air chisel to take up some flagstones on my front walk this Fall and after a few hours, smoke started curling from the motor and it died. I wasn’t too broke up about this. Other than the fact that it was undersized for my needs, it had the annoying habit...
Recent Comments
Last question - I have my front piece completed. The rear octagon is completed but I need figure out the support dimensions for the rear, because of the way my tub is stored it would be a big PIA to try and build the support on the car.
I was wondering if you could post the lengths for your rear support pieces. You mention in your first blog entry, "The front suspension bolts appeared to be 14” from the ground while the lowest and highest rear torsion tube cover bolt holes sit at about 19" and 23""
I am wondering if those measurements are correct. On my car it appears that the top bolt of the rear plate is 5 inches higher than the front support, the bottom bolt is only about an inch higher than the front support point.
Of course the cars could be different because mine's a few year later but that is a much bigger difference than I would expect. I can't seem to find an answer in the factory manuals either.
I was wondering if you could post the lengths for your rear support pieces. You mention in your first blog entry, "The front suspension bolts appeared to be 14” from the ground while the lowest and highest rear torsion tube cover bolt holes sit at about 19" and 23""
I am wondering if those measurements are correct. On my car it appears that the top bolt of the rear plate is 5 inches higher than the front support, the bottom bolt is only about an inch higher than the front support point.
Of course the cars could be different because mine's a few year later but that is a much bigger difference than I would expect. I can't seem to find an answer in the factory manuals either.
Awesome thanks again. I'll probably start construction in a couple weeks. Post some pics when I'm done.
Sitting on the base of the octagon, it's 67" tall, width: 77".
One other question: What is the height of the octagon pieces? I calculate about 69 inches plus the height of castors but my geometry is rusty. Trying to figure out if I can wheel it in and out of my garage door.
You're welcome!
I read through all the threads I could find about bracing the body for sheet metal work, rotisseries, etc. and went through Fishcop's thread several times. I came to the conclusion (as did Fishcop) that since this approach uses the suspension pickup points, the tub is designed to bear weight there and won't flex any more than it would sitting on its tires. If I end up replacing the left rocker, a component of the frame, I plan to put in a few vertical and horizontal braces but I won't go crazy. I'll also keep the tub horizontal and not move it till the sides are re-secured. I may include a few 1/4" rods to keep the tub true while I tear into it. In any event, the rotisserie holds the tub level left/right and front/back, almost as if it were sitting on a bench. It shouldn't supply any horizontal or vertical torsion to the frame at all.
Now, those rotisseries that bolt to the bumper mounts are a different animal. Think sway backed horse? If I had gone that route, you'd see my tub braced.
Having built this thing, I know this probably took a little more labor to weld up the frame and assemble the horizontal bars. In the end, I'm pleased with the result and look forward to the day I won't need it anymore.
I read through all the threads I could find about bracing the body for sheet metal work, rotisseries, etc. and went through Fishcop's thread several times. I came to the conclusion (as did Fishcop) that since this approach uses the suspension pickup points, the tub is designed to bear weight there and won't flex any more than it would sitting on its tires. If I end up replacing the left rocker, a component of the frame, I plan to put in a few vertical and horizontal braces but I won't go crazy. I'll also keep the tub horizontal and not move it till the sides are re-secured. I may include a few 1/4" rods to keep the tub true while I tear into it. In any event, the rotisserie holds the tub level left/right and front/back, almost as if it were sitting on a bench. It shouldn't supply any horizontal or vertical torsion to the frame at all.
Now, those rotisseries that bolt to the bumper mounts are a different animal. Think sway backed horse? If I had gone that route, you'd see my tub braced.
Having built this thing, I know this probably took a little more labor to weld up the frame and assemble the horizontal bars. In the end, I'm pleased with the result and look forward to the day I won't need it anymore.
