Absolutely agree!

Did you measure the distance between the screws on the ceiling boards?
Perfectly laid out.

Marv, :D

Thanks, astrochex and Skillet83, very much appreciated

911 Rod, screws hole centres were modelled on CAD, CNC precision drilled and laser scanned to check position ;) joking!

Mid-week update....

Not Stonehenge in my garage but Mrs Ahab sorting through some chunky stones, sizes range from 10"/250mm to 16"/400mm tall, saved the best stone for last and after a little trimming/cleaning these will be used to finish off the hallway opening

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1636579745.jpg

Very much work in progress but more 'ye old oak fakery'. I'm trying to create the illusion of a 16th century 'cruck' oak roof truss to make the new build top floor feel like it's actually part of the original old house.

I'm using 2-3" thick slices of reclaimed oak from what must have been a large and very old roof truss. All bought as a $40 Ebay bargain :cool:

Both timbers were a lot longer than required so the horizontal timber is just an offcut from one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1636579942.jpg

I really enjoy searching, finding and re-purposing old bits of architectural salvage and try my best not to over egg our period correct pudding by using too much of it or in too many places

Boring update....

3 days of chopping using my trusty 9" grinder with the diamond blade, horrible dusty work but thankfully no legs were hurt :)

All this stone is just for the hallway opening through the external wall of the old part of the house :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1638317559.jpg

Good news, all 15 windows arrived, I've started painting them and then it will be onto a bit of 'hot rodding' of the frames to make them look a closer match to the existing windows :cool:

In other news I've got a thread related dilemma which I'm struggling with :confused:

I either tuff it out, working in the cold, full time on my man cave through the winter :( or accept a warm, WFH desk job work offer which only leaves weekends/evenings for man cave stuff :(

More man cave progress would be great but more $'s and ticking a hyper car off my to do list would also be great

1st world problem but I'm at a loss of what to do :confused:

Looks great, Captain. Whatever you decide, I’m sure it will work out great.

I would take the job.

Your updates are never boring Captain.

Based on your summary description of your options, I would lean to the hypercar option. Warmth, $, and checking off a bucket list item is a nice trifecta. Good luck on whatever you decide.

:D when there was snow on the ground I was 100% going for the desk job but today was much warmer so I was dead set on carrying on with my building fun

If it was the summer it would be no contest, man cave all the way :cool:

Need to decide this week so lets see what the weather brings ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1638319137.jpg

Rain, sun, cold, warm, dry, wet, how am I meant to make a decision with such unsettled weather :(

Warm? I don’t see anything even remotely close to warm in those numbers.

At 25°, you’re on your way there but I’d need to see at least 30 to feel all warm and fuzzy.

As a faithful reader of this amazing post, I vote you take the car job.

The house will still be there for you.

Besides, I don't want this thread to end too soon ;)

Best,

T9

You are so used to doing manual work that your body may have trouble adjusting to an office job. Having said that you get to work on your house evenings and weekends.

Probably it all comes down to money and health. What does Mrs. A think? In the end of course it is your decision.

Won't this kind of interrupt our updates on your project?
Think about your audience!
;)

He could give us updates on his other job. Those are equally interesting.

^^^^^^^^^^^^

What Javadog saidhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Nice on the dual walls for sound insulating purposes.

The foam board is much more efficient than the more common mineral wool or fiberglass insulation. I would have thought that mineral wool would better attenuate sound, but I'm not certain on that. Around here, the only foamboard insulation that the big box stores have is 1". I can't even order thicker from HD or Lowes. I think I'd have to go to specialty building place, and presumably, the cost would be considerable.
Do you need quoins or some other reinforcement for the vertical portions of the opening that you've created to help support the lintels or is the wall adequate?

Usually, when trying to build a sound wall, you first decouple the studs from the rest of the structure with some sort of a foam. I think fiberglass will generally outperform mineral wool and foam for sound transmission, check out the different densities available and look at their sound transmission coefficients. I’d probably loosely hang a thick sheet of mass loaded vinyl on the inside of the wall facing the noise source. If I were nuts, I might hang a thin sheet of lead, instead. I would seal the edges and any cracks, gaps or holes with a flexible butyl sealant. And, since density is your friend, I’d hang two sheets of the thickest sheet rock available on both sides of the wall.

I'd use resilient channel to decouple sheet rock from framing. But I think the Cap'n has already framed a double wall that isolates one side of that wall from the other. So resilient channel might be overkill. Some Green Glue on the stud faces wouldn't hurt though. I'm sure there's a similar product in the UK.

The acoustic pros I listen to don’t tend to think that the green glue does anything useful…

Captian...Take (try) the job...you can allways quit...chances not taken...

Your house has been there for hundreds of years already, what’s a few more? Take the hyper car off the list, hope it’s with Gordon Murray:eek:

The secret to suppressing sound is layers so using 1" in multiple layers would be even better than a solid thicker piece. The second part of the method is to actually use different thicknesses and density. And as mentioned already, subtract as many direct attachments from one room to the other.

In the case of sound attenuating glass and doing it with a triple glazed window, 3 different thicknesses are used and the space, or air gap, between the outer 2 and the center pane is also different. There is also a benefit to placing sound absorbing materials between the panes around the perimeter so that any sound entering the gap is mitigated as much as possible before synchronous waves can move the next pane. Placing the glass panes at slightly non parallel angles can help.

I only explain glass because that was my business. Sound 'proof' walls are much easier to deal with. Somewhere in the wall system there should be some structure that is not vertical or parallel to the house framing.

It would be interesting to test what a plywood sandwich filled with sand would do. Or two sheets of foam as a sandwich filled with perlite or similar. As I've had to tell folks in high noise areas, like the airport or a highway with tractor trailer rigs and Harley's, those low pitched sounds are really vibrating the whole house if not the dirt under it.

Lots of weight is what overcomes sound the best. Captain should have no problems with his house exterior walls. If only he could live without windows and doors. An insulated slate or tile roof should deflect a lot of overhead noise, mainly because of the irregular surface (and weight).

Sound proofing also requires absolute sealing from air movement. Next best thing to a vacuum.

Thanks for all the advice but I've ignored it and listened to billybek :cool:

He was right, how could I have ever considered letting you guys down by not keeping the updates coming :rolleyes:

Man cave project wins, I'm years behind finishing the house and man cave, my 'finished project' match score is embarrassingly shocking :(

1 for my finished projects (1 kit car built in m 20's) vs 54 for other peoples car projects :eek:

Got a big insulation job on the original house which will keep me warm, going to have a rest over Christmas and then jump on that straight after

Thanks for all the comments on the garage dividing wall, the twin stud wall was for the noise. Also plan to add two separate layers of plasterboard to the garage ceiling which I hope will help stop most noise getting through

This guy has a ton of videos on YouTube about acoustics. He does acoustical consulting work as well, you might check out a few of his videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TvNbptI5KCQ

Interesting stuff. I went through a handful of videos. He seems very knowledgeable and is very good about not really giving anything away so that he can charge.

Most of what I see in his videos is probably very high end, not surprising since you would want to showcase the cool stuff. To do sound management really well probably involves a lot of knowledge and know how and is science based.

Wow, one of his walls that he showed was built on 8" studs and was nearly a foot thick because there was nearly 2" of surface on both sides of the wall. Another was just an inner surface of a wall and was >6" without the studs and outside wall surface. That's probably great for studios or other things, but not practical for the avg room/home.

You can actually submit information to him in the way of room dimensions, photographs and intended usage and he will respond with a free series of suggestions on what you should do. Most of his videos revolve around him describing typical solutions for treating existing rooms for sound recording or sound reproduction. In those instances, he makes money selling plans and materials for making your own room treatment devices such as diffusers and bass absorbers. Of course, he will also build such things for you, if that’s what you want. He also gets involved in more serious design work for recording studios and other things that are more of a clean sheet of paper.

There’s a lot of bad information and bad products out there for controlling sound. He seems to know what he’s talking about and I think he probably gets results, if you’re serious about finding a solution to a particular problem.

Most of his videos are concerned with absorbing unwanted reflections, pressures, etc., although there are a few that will give you some clues as to how to reduce the sound transmission between two spaces. Low frequencies are especially difficult to control, which is where you start seeing the larger thicknesses and volumes.

Excellent! Enjoy the holidays and keep the updates coming!

IDK what the actual requirements were - but I had an office with nearly 3" layers of rock/butyl/rock and so on. 2-1/2" thick oak doors with many seals. If the HVAC shut off, the silence was deafening. Strange place, and one where they took my speakerphone away because it was too close to the wall. A wall with 20feet of dirt over it and hundreds of miles beyond it.

Awesome! I can change that "Unregistered User" handle to "Pelican Influencer!" ;)
I have been pretty busy at the homestead the last while too. My projects belong in the upfixin thread and I will get around to throwing some photos up when I get a chance.
Looking forward to more updates on the progress of your project.

Thanks Bill

The humungous amount of work we've taken on got a little over whelming towards the end of last year which dented motivation and progress :( so a break from building was overdue

Over Christmas we were lucky to dodge COVID restrictions, even a French border lockdown by mere hours, correctly filled out countless forms and spent a fortune on PCR tests :mad:

Travelling isn't what it used to be but all the COVID hoop jumping allowed us 2 weeks away so we wafted in luxury a 1000 miles across Europe for some fresh mountain air at our other house which we haven't been too for over 2 years :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644278188.jpg

The much needed R and R has restored my mojo so we've been back at it again and made some progress! :)

2022 won't be the completion year of this build but it will be 'My Year of Decluttering', hoping to cull off a couple of unfinished projects this week

Updates and pics to follow......

Congrats on the R&R, Captain!

Spectacular pic, looks like a gorgeous area.

Do I recall correctly, Captain Ahab, that you are retiring? If so, then your stress will fall as your free time rises.

Every mancave needs a caveman :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644357149.jpg

Thanks, Paul

Superman, no plans to retire, quite the opposite really...

For the last 3yrs in between man cave building I've been helping Honda win their 1st F1 championship in 30yrs but at the end of this month my work with Honda F1 ends

Only plans I have is going back to work full time later this year, have no idea where yet

:cool: but what goes in there, beer, beef jerky, hot dogs??

^^^ A nice thick Rib-Eye steak. :)
It's an infra-red propane heater on top.
(takes about 5 minutes for a steak)

Time for an update,

Today's topic is how to turn a window into a door in a 2ft thick stone wall without the roof falling down. Hold my beer and read this :D

The window is located on the gable end of the original house and a door way opening was needed to gain access to the new part of the build

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644534969.JPG

1st easy job was to remove all the stone from under the window, pour a concrete base, build stone up on the sides of the opening to join the inner/outer stone walls together and then remove the old window

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644534771.jpg

As the height of the new door way would be higher than the top of the window more wall was needed to be removed which would cause the collapse of the the new build roof structure. Not an ideal situation to have happen, so I held the roof up with 3 temporary steel tube jack supports that sat on the 1st floor steel floor joist centre beams.

Apologies for the camera shake but I was kind of crapping myself a bit at this stage :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644535096.jpg

As the original internal wall wasn't under as much load as the external wall the lightweight concrete thermal block work was cut back to fit a 4" thick x 12" wide reclaimed oak lintel

The original external wall held up one end of the 8" steel ridge beam that supports the new roof which is many, many tons of weight so a more heafty approach for this side was required.

I went OTT and fitted a 8" steel column as the lintel to support the roof ridge beam. Could have used a much smaller steel section but it was a local, $30 Ebay bargain so too good to pass up

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644535699.jpg

Then I spent a day whittling with my circular saw another 4" thick x 12" wide reclaimed oak lintel so it was notched out to hide the new steel lintel. Finally the last bit of stone/blockwork was finished which will be plastered over.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644536126.jpg

Relieved to say the new roof didn't move, is still standing and should be good for the next 100yrs

Mrs Ahab has been busy too smashing a larger hole through a 2ft thick stone wall using only her strength and a few hand tools. The end result is far more impressive than this door opening, easily her finest work yet so worthy of it's own update which will follow shortly :cool:

This is just fun. Thank you, Captain and Mrs Ahab.

Outstanding! Glad you've had some rest and got your mojo back.

You said "hold my beer" so I was hoping for explosions! I figured "this guy is smart, instead of regular old dynamite, he'll use shape charges!" ;) :D

Still, impressive work, and managed to do it without collapsing the house!

Looks great! I don't think I would be able to cover the stonework with plaster. It adds so much texture and interest to that wall.

Another fantastic chapter. Thank you