Thanks, Cab...that's what I will do!

Brief update. Today I received some items I will use to effect a temporary fix, until I have time to do the entire system using the pre-fab line kit.

I got the coil of NiCu brake line including fittings, a flare tool, and a pipe cutter. I already had a pipe cutter but couldn't find it until today after the new one arrived, of course.

After some further examination, it looks like I won't have to take off the front wheel - just roll the truck up on my ramps to give me some extra clearance underneath (yes, I will use jack stands and I will be careful).

My intention is to leave the faulty line in place except for where it attaches at the master cylinder and the ABS - and run a whole new line next to the old one plumbing it in at both ends.

Might not look pretty but hopefully will at least give me back full use of the brakes.

It looks like this line is the one that goes to both sides of the back brakes, according to the schematic I'm using. The braking system is broken up into 3 circuits. One each to the front and one to the back, which goes into a tee.

Interesting that the corroded brake lines were an issue a few years back and GM avoided a recall over them. The article also states GM switched to the coated - plastic brake lines - the ones that Fred mentioned in his post - about 10 years ago, because of the corrosion problem they were having, which was mostly in the rust belt where roads were salted in the winter.

Here's the article:
https://www.freep.com/story/money/2015/04/08/general-motors-safety-brake-corroded/25460269/

A few pics....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536525121.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536525121.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536525121.JPG

I plan to this job in the morning when it not as hot.

Will keep you posted.

Thanks again for your interest and input!

I went ahead and did the first flare as a test run. Will take the burrs off tomorrow but it wasn't very hard to do at all, in case anyone's interested.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536525588.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536525588.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536525588.JPG

That Ni cop line is really nice to work with. It bends easy, and flares beautifully , I would go about that repair the same way you are . Leave the old lines alone. Just touching/bumping them may cause them to leak in other spots. I usually find the leaks right where the lines pass through the plastic holders.
I would not even be concerned about those burrs. Good luck, hope they bleed right up for you

Thanks, Fred......having your endorsement means a lot to me!

Hope Florence doesn't mess things up too much for your trip to the Outer Banks.

Be safe!

SmileWavy

Well fortunately, everything went perfect this morning. The whole thing took less than 1 hour. Very straight forward.

I left the old lines in place - just pulled the two ends aside far enough to sneak the new line in there.

This NiCop stuff is amazing! So easy to bend and work with.

I still have to bleed the brakes but for now the leak is gone and the truck stops when I push the brake pedal so that's making progress.

Thanks again for all the input - you guys are the greatest!

A few pics......

The ABS unit - the bad line is at the lower right corner - easy to get to.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536597927.JPG

After replacement - you can see the old line I pulled out and just left there hanging....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536597927.JPG

Putting the flare on the upper part of the new line.......
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536597927.JPG

New line attached to the MC and the old one left pulled aside....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536598370.JPG

Also, in looking around while underneath, it looks like the integrity of the old lines isn't too bad, so that will buy me some time to do the rest of the truck after it cools down a bit.

I LOVE it when a plan comes together! Nice work, Barry, and thanks for taking the time to illustrate the process.

Thanks, Mike....I got real lucky it worked out so well.

This forum is really empowering! :p

Yeah, pretty much that's all their is to it. You buy the Motive only to save some time making one.

I think youre a bit crazy to drop the tank or pull the box. They dont have to go in the factory locations. Heck on the front lines my brother doesnt even mess with going under the radiator he runs it over the firewall. It cant rust up there :)

Heh.....yeah, I thought about this today after I finished up.

Taking the box off isn't really that big a deal though (especially with an impact wrench) and I would really like to use the original brackets if at all possible plus I wouldn't mind doing a few other things at the time, like a new fuel pump and cleaning up some of the debris, dirt, gunk, and corrosion.

Plus keep in mind - the set of lines I have coming are already pre-shaped with fittings and are ready to go right into the original factory positions.

Dropping the fuel tank has never been something I'd do with another option available, anyway.

Today worked out fine as a temporary repair.

Turns out I didn't even have to bleed the brakes. Got in her this morning and brake pedal was firm - with pedal up nice and high too.

Maybe the air in the new line made it's way upward and into the MC overnight all by itself..ha ha.

Nice to have full braking again.

Here we go again......second one went. Headed out now to replace. Second time is the charm, right?

It's funny, after you posted this originally my brother and I did both his 3500 and his Avalanche. Had the lines blow a day apart. We used the "factory" kit and it SUCKED. His trucks took up a bay in my shop for at least a week. I told him to just buy the nickel copper alloy line and just run it. The worst part when we did the whole thing was bleeding that damn valve that sits under the driver mounted to the frame.
Warning! The line that crosses under the radiator from the left to right side is a JOY.

Come on, it was not that bad............ biggest challenge was connecting the quick connects at the last minute, before you push the tank back in position.

Replacing the fuel lines hidden by the tank was a bigger pia. I also replaces the break line that runs down that same spot inside the frame rail.

The job did suck........ but not worse than many others.

Well I can now attest to the fact that the second time is not always the charm.

What a PITA!

Biggest issue was getting to the line fitting where it attaches to the distribution hub. The one i was replacing was in the top row right in the middle. I ended up taking off the new one I just put in to get to this one. Getting those line fittings lined up so they will thread back in is a major pain.

In fact so much so I ended up cross threading the one I removed to get access. It remains to be seen if it leaks.

If that wasn't bad enough all my brake fluid leaked out too because I wasn't diligent enough with plugging the line ends I had detached.

I filled the MC back up and will see if, like last time, gravity takes it where it needs to go. This time I think I will have to pay the fiddler and do some bleeding.

The icing on the cake was when I backed it off my ramps - I had no brakes - so the truck rolled across the street and into my neighbor's side yard - which was sloped upward luckily. Then it rolled back up into my driveway and crashed into a plastic table and some other misc stuff I had just in front of the garage door opening. Luckily after that little joy ride nothing was damaged.

I'm more concerned about the cross threaded line fitting than anything else. I may have to get my mechanics help with re-chasing the threads or worse case scenario replacing the whole block. Fun fun.....

Headed to the shower now to try and get the brake fluid out of my hair......

Honestly, I think you should bite the bullet and replace the lines with the stainless ones you have. It’s going to suck yes but the angles will be all correct and you won’t have to monkey around and potentially cross thread and wreck the female threads.

If you continue to make your own - are you double flaring your ends? Please say yes.

I’ve done this lots both ways (with home made lines and with reproduction lines). The repro lines are good if you can wiggle them into place without too much Tourette’s. Also put electrical tape over the ends while wiggling them into position to keep crap out of them.

Replace them all, then bleed so you only have to bleed once. Also if you use a power bleeder (or not) make sure you periodically check to make sure you don’t pump air into your 1/2 bleed system (less of a problem with a motive bleeder).

You can. Also make a bleeder from a cheap weed sprayer and a master cylinder cap and a hose barb...

Cross threading how far in? Did you back it off and engage properly or reef it in all the way?

Draining reservoir should not impact ABS box. Conventional bleeding needed, yes, but not the need for a scanner that cycles the solenoids. Even then, it can suck the chaod to clear air.

Take a break.

All is not lost yet buddy. If you find yourself in a jam and cannot bleed, feel free to pm me, or call/text me 724 355 9296. You can probably save that valve block if you have not run the line in all the way yet .
I've got a trick for that too. I've made every mistake you just did so many times I cannot even count . It happens, fighting those lines in the valve block is a pia. When I replace them all I do them in the order so that I am starting with the inner most upper line, and work my way out .
Best of luck! Glad no one was hurt or nothing was damaged too badly .
A guy I worked with , did the same thing and ran one off the drive on alignment rack. He put a pickup truck , right through a bock wall, and right into our lunchroom . Good thing it was not lunch time .

Thanks Billy. No not double flaring. Is that a bad thing? :p

I may end up doing just what you suggested - I do have the entire line replacement in SS, complete with fittings attached. Would lift off the bed to do so.

I have some work to do this week so will focus on that first. A friend of mine will lend me his truck, fortunately.

I do have a motive bleeder in working condition.

Good tip about taping the ends! SmileWavy