We are hijacking the thread but do this and apply the stuff as a secondary barrier.

One gallon is enough to cover a truck but two gallons will drown it.

I like the drowning effect.

It is not permanent and never dries. Do overs on high abrasion areas annually but worth it.

Oh yeah.. It's not like my Ford that had a line to the back a line to the front and a crossover for the passenger side front and back. That block is a good pic of each individual line plus I think a feed from the MC and a return IIRC. BRUTAL.

Aside from the cluster f**k of myriad lines diving under the left frame behind front wheel, along the outer frame rail and bending at 90 degree angles into the mid section to mate up with the ABS box, it ain't that bad.

Here's a video I found that shows some info on where the lines go.......

<iframe width="1172" height="659" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fUAnYxwq3ps" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I wish I would have remembered this thread when my brother and I did both of his trucks. We mapped the lines to the block. I wasn't under the truck but I was helping feed the pre-bent lines from above and don't recall it being too bad except for the front line that crosses over to the passenger side. That one was a bear. The hard part was getting each into their respective clips. I'm assuming you have the driver side inner fender removed?

Getting to this a bit late, and didn't read all four pages. But it looks like one of the photos show a single flare, which is a no-no. What happens is the flare can split when pressure is applied to it. All fitting need the strength of a double flare. When doing the Unimogs I make up a new lines using the copper/Nichol alloy line. Need 75' of line and a ton of fittings to make it all work like new! I use a hydraulic flare tool which makes doing all the flaring soooo much easier!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1551967117.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1551967117.jpg

Bob,

This is funny!

"Aside from the cluster f**k of myriad lines diving under the left frame behind front wheel, along the outer frame rail and bending at 90 degree angles into the mid section to mate up with the ABS box, it ain't that bad."

Thanks for your advice!

Robert

Von is right about that flare. It does look like a flare rather than a double flare. I noticed your flare kit is a double flare set but it looks like you might be using the wrong head for the tool?

I never tried to make a double flare but probably could if I wanted.

Right now going to Plan B.......

I had some errands to do on Friday so thought while I was in the neighborhood I would drop by my mechanic's place and see if he had time to help me, just in case. He said no worries he could this week and could come pick up my truck and take it to his shop with his car hauler.

I told him I would let him know and am now of the opinion I will go ahead and let him.

I removed the cross-threaded fitting and I don't have enough confidence in my abilities to re-tap the hole correctly. I gave it a half-hearted try tonight and just didn't get it done. Very cramped area and my tap foo isn't exactly top notch.

Also, the transmission lever is not moving out of Park the way it should so he can fix that as well. Hopefully nothing serious.

I have the entire pre-fab SS brake line kit he can use if he wants - I'll leave it to his discretion.

Ordinarily, if I had to use a different shop/mechanic, I might continue to work on it myself. But I really like my mechanic (Ivan) - he's helped me with both my 914 and 356 and is a good guy. So aside from the money part - it's like letting a good friend help with the repair.

Will post again...thanks for all the input!

Here's a couple pics of the cross threaded fitting before I removed it and the buggered hole....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552357406.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552357406.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552357406.JPG

I have no idea if it’s feasible (or advisable) but could you route the brake lines to bypass the ABS? Seems like it would be much easier, but.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552397362.jpg
It happens, Glad you've got a good guy in your corner to fix you up . Should be able to clean up those threads, and get a fitting to seat again .

Yes sir - and my brother in Virginia who is a machinist and metal fabricator by trade sent me a reply and said I need a different type of tap - one called a bottom tap - that doesn't have the taper, since the hole is so shallow I'm working with. I'm off to try and fetch one of those locally - and may be able to repair the threads myself.

Will go through my tool boxes first then beat the bushes.

Here's what the bottom tap looks like.......

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-zbaq...223390.gif?c=2

Baz, I'm not sure that bottom tap is going to work on your problem. You may have to grind all the lead-in threads off the tap to get it to go deep enough yet not mess up the seating flange of the block.
If you do grind it, you have to be very careful when starting the tap since it'll be sharp edges you're trying to screw into the block.
I'd also get a small block of aluminum or hard wood and put a hole in it that the tap just clears. Use the block to keep the tap square to the hole when starting the tap. It doesn't look like you have much 'original' thread left at the lead-in of the thread. Get the junction block as smooth as you can (I see some burrs around the hole) so the tap block will sit squarely on it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552437072.JPG

I think all the surrounding surface can be used to steady the tap block.

Thanks, Scott. I ended up cutting the end off my plug tap and using it. The thing is, with that hub installed and me on my back under a jacked up truck, it just wasn't the ideal scenario to get the hole re-threaded properly. I tried and indeed the fitting went in better but still at a slight angle - which led to fluid leakage - thus I failed again and now have given up doing this myself. My mechanic, Ivan will pick the truck up tomorrow and take it to his shop where hopefully he can get the repair done properly.

I don't really care at this point. I gave it as much effort as I could with my limited resources here.

Also, just to cover my bases, I found a new hub on eBay and just bought it. Will be here Monday. Around $80 total so not too bad, considering how important my brake system is. We may end up waiting and just using that when it comes. I will discuss with Ivan tomorrow.

Pics of the modified tap......

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552438582.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552438582.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552438582.JPG

OK, just trying to help.
With the way things (cars) rust back there (east) I'm surprised I don't see more car haulers full of west coast used cars heading back east. They could pass as 'snow' cars no problem.

You can. My friend, Duane, owns his own service shop and on his personal trucks he always bypasses the ABS. I don't think it's a good idea and even ponied up the $$ to replace my ABS unit.

Oh, by the way, I wouldn't recommend Duane if you want you ABS system repaired!

Robert

I know Scott and very much appreciate it - along with everyone else's advice and input. SmileWavy

Have you tried drinking heavily? I find that when it get in a situation like this that it helps. :D

I don't drink though . Should I start? ;)

Actually I'm at peace with the whole situation at this point. Biggest regret is not doing my homework - and being wrong with which line to replace at the hub. If not for that first mistake - the repair would have been completed as good as the first time.

Live and learn, right?

Ivan and his son came today so I can rest assure it's in good hands and will be repaired properly. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552494959.JPG