OEM parts?

[look 171]

I know OEM parts are a must on some items, how about something simple like idler pulleys and belt tensioners? My diesel truck squeal during start up, so I picked up all those parts and a new belt yesterday. I got it done today but it kick my butt. What a PITA that was. I looked at some of the none OEM parts this evening, such as Dorman, only to discovered they are half the price. I wonder if the quality is as good? I pulled the power steering pump too because as I turn the wheel, it was a bit hard at some point. Its all good now. Anyone know anything about Saginaw or Cardone quality? My oem pump was a little over 200 bucks, twice as much as none OEM. I like to think or hope they are better quality at twice the price or am I getting ripped off here?

[DanielDudley]

There are different tiers of quality for sure. Even so, water pumps and power steering pumps are not rocket science. When I needed a new throttle body assembly for my Sierra, I bought a Hitachi unit, and it has been very good to me for 1/3 the cost. I wouldn't buy URO relays or parts for my 911, but the Feal sensors I bought instead of Bosch have been great.

My beater truck now has 250,000 miles on it. I'm not going to put 600+ dollar axles on it when I can get an axle with the bearing and seal for 130. Those have been fine for the last 10,000 miles. With a cost difference of almost 1200 dollars, it was worth the gamble, since my labor is free, and it is a mornings work.

Some things, like Chinese knockoff alternators are a crap shoot. When the Autozone one died in six months, I took it back and got a better one. None of these items are hard to swap, and online forums can point the way to the better quality/savings. The Napa unit has been fine.

I still often give local vendors a chance for my business, but if they have to order it and mark it up, I will order it myself. Obviously, online forums can steer you away from painful junk.

[jcommin]

It depends. Critical things, I prefer the OEM. Daniel, is correct, there are different grades of aftermarket parts - different quality and price points.

I work for a global tier 1 supplier for the automotive industry. We make OEM parts for all the major manufacturers. We make aftermarket parts too. Some are equal to or better than the OE stuff. We also import parts from China but they must meet our specifications. We see allot of knock offs and copy cats parts. We take action when we can.

[cabmandone]

I have used a lot of Gates belt kits that include tensioner and idlers without any problems.

[asphaltgambler]

My experience is that auto parts price and quality (if you call it that) vary widely. When ever I have not chosen OE or OEM parts for the driveline the part always came up short. Now lights, body, trim if they are CAPA certiifed - they are fine but way cheaper then OE or OEM

[GH85Carrera]

For me it depends on how much of a pain the R&R of the part is to do. My El Camino wore out yet another water pump. I used a brand new water pump, and since the old one was still under warranty, the replacement was another new pump for free. Stuff that the do for a small block with eleventy zillion small blocks on the planet. Of course the entire engine was a brand new, not rebuilt 350 that I bought for $1,700 delivered to my door.

As far as an alternator, I have used a lot of different ones. Most of them from a FLAPS are junk. I finally had a local guy build me one from top quality parts. I can change the alternator in 15 minutes if I take my time.

For the 911, I am very leery of non OEM level of quality. ER suspension parts are fine, but for most things, I prefer OEM.

[speeder]

Dorman idler pulleys for domestic applications are of good quality, in my experience. You have to have the ability to look at a part and evaluate it or have someone you can ask who knows, that's pretty much the bottom line.

The place where I buy most of my auto and truck parts will tell me honestly whether this brand or that is junk, even if they offer it. They will tell me honestly how many they've sold in the last 5 years and how many have come back, (it's right there on their computer screen in front of them).

I buy a LOT of auto parts. I used to buy a lot of Porsche parts from Pelican when I had an air-cooled 911 many years ago, they did not sell cheap aftermarket anything in those days. It was all Porsche dealer parts or actual original parts, (as opposed to OEM, which means something entirely different). I could type a whole page on auto parts; the industry and it's relationship to globalism and the decline of manufacturing in the 1st world, etc., etc...

It's a subject near and dear to me. To make a long story short, most replacement parts are not what they used to be and are not made where they used to be. Most Bosch parts are made in the 3rd world or Turkey. 20 years ago, they were almost exclusively made in Germany. You need to access the best parts you can for the best price. The good news is that the internet has made the auto parts business an absolute cut-throat, price competitive industry where I buy the best parts available today for pennies over cost in most instances.

I generally do not buy parts from Autozone, (NAPA is a lot better), but AZ's business model is appealing because of the warranty. What they do is sell absolute crap parts that were made in someone's bathtub in Tijuana but they warranty them for life. There are AZ stores everywhere in the U.S., so when that crap alternator or PS pump takes a dump in the middle of Nebraska, you simply turn it in for another one at the nearest AZ.

They know that their parts are garbage and will fail ~20% of the time, they don't care. It's built into the business model. If I'm rebuilding alternators for $8.00 a piece including shipping and can sell 2 million of them @ $79 each, wtf do I care if I have to give you another one @ $8.00 once in a while? It's not like I'm giving the $79 back.

So to summarize, lifetime warrantees are great but they do not correlate to quality, sometimes just the opposite. Things that are attached to the front of an engine like idler pulleys and alternators are easy to replace and therefore commonly sold to DIY car owners, so if you have to replace them every year or two, big deal.

[look 171]

I know you do lots with these trucks, Dennis and I was hoping you would respond. The trick is knowing which ones are the good aftermarket vs bad. I was on line and found the same parts made by different companies that varied greatly in price. 25 years ago, I was forced to repair my car, and know the major companies that actually made good aftermarket products. Now, there are companies that I have never heard of making the very same parts. They could have been just re-badged garbage from some factory in China or India. I have no issue putting in a good after market parts like Moog's suspension products. Its tight in front of that truck, so I rather not tear into it anytime soon if a pulley fails. Hell, I bet the AC Delco stuff is made from the very same factories that made the same pulley that cost 50% cheaper. I sure don't know that.

[speeder]

You always have to weigh quality vs. price, how much labor to change, etc.. I generally use the best parts I can buy but if the price difference is ridiculous, (and it sometimes is), I might use an inferior part on my own car if it seems ok in quality.

It's important to understand what brand names and terms like, "OEM" mean. If a company once made door lock buttons for the 1986 Porsche 924S, they can call themselves a "Porsche OEM supplier" forever while selling clutch kits made out of pot metal in Khakistan. There is now even a global parts company selling Chinese crap that calls themselves, "OEM." I schit you not. That is their brand name and it's all over parts catalogues, (probably including Pelican), confusing unsophisticated shoppers.

We are living in the age of Trump University.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by speeder

You always have to weigh quality vs. price, how much labor to change, etc.. I generally use the best parts I can buy but if the price difference is ridiculous, (and it sometimes is), I might use an inferior part on my own car if it seems ok in quality.

It's important to understand what brand names and terms like, "OEM" mean. If a company once made door lock buttons for the 1986 Porsche 924S, they can call themselves a "Porsche OEM supplier" forever while selling clutch kits made out of pot metal in Khakistan. There is now even a global parts company selling Chinese crap that calls themselves, "OEM." I schit you not. That is their brand name and it's all over parts catalogues, (probably including Pelican), confusing unsophisticated shoppers.

We are living in the age of Trump University.

At times, I am not sure parts from AC Delco is any better. I have been doing some reading about the steering gear box since my truck has a bit of an issue. Power steering pump fixed that. Even ones (maybe rebuilt?) bought from the dealers aren't going the miles like the original ones that came on the truck. From what I read, they last 50-70k miles and the originals seem to last well over 150k.

[speeder]

For steering gear boxes, these guys are supposed to be the best, better than dealer replacement units. I'm about to order one for my F-250, I'll post a review here.

https://redheadsteeringgears.com

[look 171]

Cool, thanks