JB Weld, Gorilla, Loctite & Flex Glue TEST
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4xX7VecgzA

Yes I have always liked JB weld.....Epoxy for quick repairs

Testing was well executed but would like to see how vibration effects each. JB Weld fracures easily with only slight vibration.

I use Loctite's Hysol EA E-40HT for nearly everything. LOCTITE EA E-40HT

Vibration, temperature, solvent and chemical resistant with extremely strong bonds.

Surface prep is everything in epoxies.

Great video, thanks for sharing.

I use JB Weld a fair bit, so good to see this.

On my T34, I had some decomposition of the engine case around the oil sump,due to the engine sitting with water in the oil. I cleaned it up really well and glooped in some JB-weld, then sanded it down once it cured. It's been several years and it's still holding up well.

Marine Tex..It was years ago, and I was poor, and trying to get a 911 running again

what I like about JB Weld is it bonds to Mg very well. Every fan and housing I Cerakote is frosted like a cake with JB Weld and then sanded smooth for a perfect finish.

I can't see the link right now but I assume that is the Project Farm YouTube channel. You guys should check out his other videos, he is creative and does fun videos testing all kinds of mechanical/electrical/engine stuff.

I just watched one recently where he tested 3D printed cylinder heads on a mower engine.

For smoothing imperfections/pits?

I have to do some study on Cerakote.

Just rambling. I do like JB Weld and it does a wonderful job if you set up the bond site properly. Clean and enhance mechanical adhesion if possible. I do like several hours set up for the Quik but works fine for a wimpy repair in a much shorter time window.

I'll watch the vid now. LOL.

Exactly Bob. This fan and housing used to be horribly pitted. Frosted and then about 3 hours of sanding. Cerakote goes on in plating level thickness. Just need a good gun with a .8 tip (I use a Sata 4400) and an oven. Far superior to powder in every way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546733881.JPG


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546734096.JPG

When I built my last engine for my RX7 we did an extremely aggressive street port on it. We had to break into a water jacket in order to get the shape we wanted on the port and get the timing right.

If you do not know rotary engines it is sort of like a 2 stroke engine, you can change the port timing which is akin to an aggressive cam on a piston car.

We needed to seal back up the water jacket. I refused to believe JB Weld would hold so I purchased 2 different kinds of epoxy's one cost me over $100 for a quart.

We tried to create a scenario like it would experience inside the engine, we boiled it in water, we heated it up in a water antifreeze compound we also threw in some gasoline and oil.

The only epoxy that held strong was the JB Weld.

I still refused to believe it so I consulted two different engine builders who are renowned in the rotary world. Both said the same... JB Weld.

So we used it, that was almost 20 K miles algo and 10 years ago the engine still runs perfectly, furthermore it was an engine initially designed to handle the abuse and heat of 255HP tuned to make 550HP.

I knew before I started watching that video what the result was going to be.

Not to change subjects, but do you take apart the fan when coating it?

It looks like new parts and rivets.

Nice job.

Wow..awesome Jim

Thanks. Fans and housings are fun.

Yes, I drill out the old solid rivets and plate the hub and associated hardware, refinish the fan and then rivet the hub back in place with a 4X gun.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546789727.jpg

You're bada55!

I use JBweld a fair bit. It works great to smooth out corroded metal before powdercoating.

Anyone else use JB Weld for "non traditional uses" ? Last 2 times I used it was to bed the receiver and first few inches of barrel on super accurate 10/22 builds... .

Should you need to, Kiwi neutral shoe polish makes a good release agent....

Thanks for sharing - he did a pretty good set of "real world" tests. His other videos are really entertaining and informative too.

Thanks Steve! One of the best parts of what I do is all the toys I get to buy, and make, to do what I want. Took four, 10 hour days to figure out how to duplicate the factory rivets and then make the jig and the set to do it. So much fun!

Pretty cool dude to have around.