Anyone ever replace their hard brakelines on a Silverado before?

[Baz]

My truck is a 2002 Silverado 1500 2WD extended cab w/8' bed w/217K miles.

Recently had one of my hard brake lines spring a leak. It squirts brake fluid out in a small stream when the brake pedal is depressed. I can't (yet) tell which line it is, except it is just over the frame member above the driver side front brake caliper.

Not surprising this happened, given my truck sits outside in a coastal (corrosive) environment.

So, I am thinking I should replace them all at one time, given I want to keep the truck for a while, and once one springs a leak, chances are others are not far behind.

I already ordered a complete SS hard line kit from Dorman. The question is - do I do the work myself or is this something I should take to my mechanic.

I looked at a couple YT vids and didn't see anything too difficult - just a tedious job, more or less.

To make access easier, one of the videos suggest dropping the fuel tank, but I'm thinking I could remove my truck bed instead, something I have done before to replace the fuel pump.

In fact, if I do this I will probably put a new fuel pump in, while I'm "in there".

Here's a couple vids I looked at. I think the guy who did the first video did a really good job explaining everything. Kudos to him! The second one (by Dorman) is for a little later model truck so may not exactly apply.

What do you guys think?

I really love my mechanic - he's really conscientious and is great at his job and I wouldn't mind giving him the work, to be honest, but sometimes there are advantages to do stuff yourself too, although in some cases it's more like torture...ha ha.

[Brian 162]

I just had the same repair done on my 06 Tahoe. It's a common problem with these vehicles. The factory lines are crap.
I let my mechanic replace the lines with the stainless steel kit upgrade. He billed me 5 hours.

[stomachmonkey]

I've dropped a Tahoe fuel tank.

Knowing now what I learned then, If taking the body off instead was an option I would have done it.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Brian 162

I just had the same repair done on my 06 Tahoe. It's a common problem with these vehicles. The factory lines are crap.
I let my mechanic replace the lines with the stainless steel kit upgrade. He billed me 5 hours.

Thanks for the input, Brian. Good to know!

[Baz]

Originally Posted by stomachmonkey

I've dropped a Tahoe fuel tank.

Knowing now what I learned then, If taking the body off instead was an option I would have done it.

I'm lucky mine's a pickup....lifting the bed is fairly easy once you know the routine. I've done it 3 times already!

That fuel tank stuff looks like a PITA!

[Zeke]

They must sell a work around kit so you don't have to R & R the tank.

[VincentVega]

Don't have to pull the tank. Skip the pre bent stuff and make your own as you go. I tried pre bent on mine and it's next to impossible without bending the chit out of them.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Zeke

They must sell a work around kit so you don't have to R & R the tank.

In the first video I posted, he just pushed the lines across the top of the tank, but I'm not sure that's the preferred method...lol.

I have no problem lifting my bed off the frame instead. It's only eight bolts very easy to access from below. I also believe it would be easier to do the work with the bed off vs. just dropping the fuel tank.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

Don't have to pull the tank. Skip the pre bent stuff and make your own as you go. I tried pre bent on mine and it's next to impossible without bending the chit out of them.

Interesting. Why didn't the pre-bent ones work for you, specifically? Did you take your bed off of the frame first?

[Kraftwerk]

Sorry I can't help or advise. I am always tempted to do everything myself.. If it comes to fuel or dropping the tank it makes the job so much worse... I just don't like working with gasoline dripping on my head.
I like when I used to see P.U trucks w/o the bed on driving around... you hardly ever see that anymore...

[Dansvan]

All the ones I"ve had to do were rusted through right in front of the left rear tire, on top of the frame by the tank. We dont have alot of corrosion issues up here (Ak) but sediment just sits in that spot.

[fastfredracing]

Hundreds of times . I always buy the lines from GM, they are coated , pre bent, and under 80 bucks.
Its not hard, just tedious , and dirty. Bleeding them will probably be the hardest part. Some of them bleed right up, and others can take me hours .
If you were closer, Id already be halfway done for you buddy ! You can do it , just allot yourself the weekend .

[cabmandone]

Not on a Chevy but on a Ford F350. Line rusted behind the tank. I bought a roll of nickel copper line. The nickel copper line is easy to work with and I ran one solid line from the front to the back without removing the fuel tank on my truck. Why they make fuel lines stainless but not what makes the car stop is beyond me.

Originally Posted by Baz

In the first video I posted, he just pushed the lines across the top of the tank, but I'm not sure that's the preferred method...lol.

I have no problem lifting my bed off the frame instead. It's only eight bolts very easy to access from below. I also believe it would be easier to do the work with the bed off vs. just dropping the fuel tank.

I like that idea but you might want to start hitting those 8 bolts with penetrating oil because if your fuel lines are corroded, you can almost bet so are those bolts. I ended up having to grind the heads on my bed bolts when I replaced the bed on my F350.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Brake-Line-CN-316/dp/B00651OAVS

Use this stuff !
iT IS LEGAL, malleable, friendly and will never rot out again !

Thanks! I actually did order a roll of it which will arrive this weekend so I can get started on a temporary repair until the full kit arrives a week from today. Also a tool to make the flared ends.

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

Hundreds of times . I always buy the lines from GM, they are coated , pre bent, and under 80 bucks.
Its not hard, just tedious , and dirty. Bleeding them will probably be the hardest part. Some of them bleed right up, and others can take me hours .
If you were closer, Id already be halfway done for you buddy ! You can do it , just allot yourself the weekend .

Thanks Fred! I would let you have the job in a heartbeat, were we a bit closer. Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'll try to live up to your expectations!

Originally Posted by cabmando

Not on a Chevy but on a Ford F350. Line rusted behind the tank. I bought a roll of nickel copper line. The nickel copper line is easy to work with and I ran one solid line from the front to the back without removing the fuel tank on my truck. Why they make fuel lines stainless but not what makes the car stop is beyond me.

I like that idea but you might want to start hitting those 8 bolts with penetrating oil because if your fuel lines are corroded, you can almost bet so are those bolts. I ended up having to grind the heads on my bed bolts when I replaced the bed on my F350.

Hey Cab.....thanks for your input! Good idea about the bed bolts. They are probably OK because it wasn't more than 2 years ago last time I loosened them to replace the fuel pump.

==========

I've identified the faulty line - it's the one coming out of the front of the M/C and the hole is right where it makes a turn about 18" downstream. Hopefully (as mentioned above) I can effect a repair on just that line and buy a little time before doing the whole monte. The kit isn't getting here for another week anyway.

When I do the job, I want to devote a whole weekend so I can take my time and get everything cleaned off with my pressure washer while the bed is off. I might even do a little body work at this time - will play by ear.

Thanks again for the input, guys - it was very helpful!

[hcoles]

I need to check my 06 Tahoe. A video shows it is a bit of a job to replace some of these lines.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Get a Motive pressure bleeder if you don't have one already. They are awesome tools. You'll be at it for a long time trying to bleed by the pedal if you replace everything.

[Arizona_928]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Not on a Chevy but on a Ford F350. Line rusted behind the tank. I bought a roll of nickel copper line. The nickel copper line is easy to work with and I ran one solid line from the front to the back without removing the fuel tank on my truck. Why they make fuel lines stainless but not what makes the car stop is beyond me.



I like that idea but you might want to start hitting those 8 bolts with penetrating oil because if your fuel lines are corroded, you can almost bet so are those bolts. I ended up having to grind the heads on my bed bolts when I replaced the bed on my F350.

That's good knowing you did the job right! Thank you!

The nickel copper lines are the ones you want to buy. You'll need a flare tool and fittings if you go that route as they come in rolls and not prebent like the ones you're planning on using.

I've replaced a complete set of lines on an old w300. It's not hard work, just a little more involved then prebent. My toys stay in Arizona so I don't worry about corrosion factor, but if it's your first time tackling something like this the prebent stainless steel lines will be the easiest and quickest option.

No one is going to fault you for using SS, it's your truck at the end of the day and hopefully the new lines will last just as long as the old ones did.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy

Get a Motive pressure bleeder if you don't have one already. They are awesome tools. You'll be at it for a long time trying to bleed by the pedal if you replace everything.

I have a Motive bleeder but I'm afraid to look at the lines - I'm not relishing digging into that sort of project.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy

Get a Motive pressure bleeder if you don't have one already. They are awesome tools. You'll be at it for a long time trying to bleed by the pedal if you replace everything.

Thanks, Matt. I have one but the cap doesn't match up with the one on my truck so will have to do a retrofit somehow. I saved the cap off my old MC so that helps.

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

That's good knowing you did the job right! Thank you!

The nickel copper lines are the ones you want to buy. You'll need a flare tool and fittings if you go that route as they come in rolls and not prebent like the ones you're planning on using.

I've replaced a complete set of lines on an old w300. It's not hard work, just a little more involved then prebent. My toys stay in Arizona so I don't worry about corrosion factor, but if it's your first time tackling something like this the prebent stainless steel lines will be the easiest and quickest option.

No one is going to fault you for using SS, it's your truck at the end of the day and hopefully the new lines will last just as long as the old ones did.

Thanks, AZ. I know you're right about the NiCU lines, but the SS ones already have all the lengths cut plus fittings and flares so that will hopefully save some time. I'm even wondering if a coating of Cold Zinc Galv. on them after install will give them a longer life. Or some of that rubberized undercoating. (?)

Originally Posted by hcoles

I have a Motive bleeder but I'm afraid to look at the lines - I'm not relishing digging into that sort of project.

You may not have an issue, Henry, if you're not in a corrosive environment. Mine lasted 16 years so you probably still have life in them for a few more years, at least.

[cabmandone]

For the retrofit to Motive pressure bleeder, I used an old cap for brake fluid reservoir, made a thick gasket for inside the cap, drilled the cap and put a barb fitting in that connected to the line. But I also made my own pressure bleeder using a pump sprayer...