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I was able to lay down the first coat of the first color on my friend's supercub yesterday. He'd done all the covering work with his ia's supervision. We're doing a 3 color job glacier white on top and a dark green on the bottom with the traditional supercub spear in gold.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733072697.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733072697.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733072697.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733072697.jpg |
Trying to convert these flanges, from screw in studs, to press in ARP studs.
I only need to increase the size a couple hundredths and my new drill bits don’t seem to be cutting, because it’s using so much of the outside edge? Would it be better to use a reamer? The knurled section is .510; the threaded section is .468; what size drill bit or reamer would you recommend? My drill bit was .498 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733089037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733089037.jpg |
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I would have expected the drill bit to work, and give you a hole very close to 0.500". Maybe it's a crap drill bit?
If you have a 0.500 reamer that should work. Or buy a 1/2" carbide drill bit. The carbide bits tend to chip though, I'm not sure the interrupted cut is good for it. |
It was a DeWalt drill bit. I probably need to slow the speed down some and not press so hard. It seemed like it was working, until the smoke came out…
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Thanks Bill.
Rocket, I like reamers.... a lot especially when everything is centered and locked down. However, if your bit size is correct it should do fine, just slow it down and use a good cutting oil. Oh and don't release the magic smoke... ya can't ever get it back into the bit. |
^^^ After some reading online, I don’t think I can ream it from .468 to .5 Not in one go any way. Maybe a tapered reamer?
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Normally I would say that 0.468 is too small to ream, but's not a solid hole, it's threaded. Just buy a good bit, slow the rpm, lubricate and don't overload the bit. https://www.amazon.com/HLOFIZI-Cobalt-Drill-Titanium-Stainless/dp/B0D3DVDXHN/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=1% 2F2%22%2Bdrill%2Bbit&sbo=9ZOMT9Jm0JH%2Ft%2BWi68iDS A%3D%3D&sr=1-1-ac07dfd7-5f37-4797-bcf7-0f4905c82761-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0a WM |
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Bits ordered!
I have about six 1/2” bits in the last one semi worked. I got it through, but all of the bits are inly good for wood or soft metals now. I knocked the stud in with a brass hammer. It wasn’t too difficult, so I’m thinking I may do a small weld on the back, to keep them from spinning… Since the back of the flange has a slight curve to it, I ground the area around the hole flat. Going forward, I will only make the flat spot just big enough for the head of the stud. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733197389.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733197389.jpg |
Just a couple more to go.
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Stopped at Lowe’s and picked up another 1/2” bit. Slowed the rpm’s and used lots of oil. It went through like a hot knife through butter.🤪
One hole got off just a tad, when I checked the studs for square. I had to massage the hole just a bit to square it up. I think I’ll bolt it to a wheel and tack weld the studs to the hub. It will keep everything in place. This was a test run to see how it worked. I ordered another rear hub and two new front hubs. When I do maintenance of the 330. I’ll install the new parts. Thanks everyone! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733272186.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733272186.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733272186.jpg |
The secret to life is to slow down and use lube liberally.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733280709.jpg
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Are those studs 8740 chrome moly? I would not be welding those without talking with the manufacturer. Some chrome moly metals will stress crack with welding. |
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Edit… a quick look at the ARP website, and it seems like all of the wheel studs are 8740 chrome moly. So what would I need to do? Edit 2: I would only weld maybe 25% of the bolt to the flange. Not a full 360. |
I found this on their website, about the hole size. The 1/2” drill bit is too big.
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You said above the knurl is 0.510". The hole can be 0.006" - 0.016" interference. You should have about 0.010".... The effort required to press the studs in should give you an idea of the interference. |
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Maybe the Loctite is a good idea. Thanks |
A930Rocket, get yourself a .500 HSS reamer for the other hubs, you need to spin it at about 100rpm and consistent feed rate and cutting oil on it. Reaming from .468 to .500 wont be a problem. The holes you drilled likely ended up oversize a little from the drill chattering, if you really want to drill you can try and and grind the cutting edge of the bit flat and see if that helps. A reamer would be best though.
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