Yeah they’re going to take a little longer. I did one section and I had to do some of it by hand.

Because it has been so dry here in western Nova Scotia, the usual pastures provided for the equines have been depleted, so the wife asked me to recomission the pasture above the pond. Hoo boy! I had disconnected the electric fence in that area this spring when it was so wet. Of course the grass grew well while there was moisture, but now I have to get the grass knocked down from close to a half mile of fence. Step one was to mow as close as I could with the tractor and bush cutter. Next step will be several hours with the line trimmer. Should take about four or five tanks of gas. My back is aching just thinking about it.

I'd figure out a way to mount the string trimmer to the tractor.

There are a couple of sections where the tractor can't go because of natural springs keeping the ground soft year around. I must admit I have given a lot of thought to a larger, more powerful line trimmer, powered by the tractor and mounted on the 3 pt. hitch. Tomorrow it is supposed to be cooler, so I will just get 'er done.

I installed a mechanical oil gauge with a digital read out on my 2014 F150. I’ve been having problems about once every week or so, where I would get a low oil pressure light and the engine turns off. Yesterday, it did it again on 526, in afternoon traffic.


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Actually, no, but a varmint unknown chomped my fuel line. I should be happy because when you see a puddle of fuel under your fuel tank in the driveway it's hard not to imagine seeing yourself doing the drop-the-tank chore in the immediate future.
Fortunately, just a fuel line is a relatively easy repair. Glad I didn't have to do this out on a roadtrip somewhere.

I've been under and on top of the engine bay of my '06 Jag XJ6 R and R the alternator which is low and tight WRT location. Some say remove a radiator hose (nope) or the front sway bar (nope) or just lift out the electric fans assembly (yep) to get a wrench in there. Actually by the time you get the front belt to the a/c off and loosen the double nutted tensioner to the alt including the harness, almost all my metric sockets and wrenches were on the ground. 8, 10, 13, 15 and 17mm all needed.

Due to abbreviated work periods to save what I have left, I've been going out there in the mornings for 20-30 minute sets. Crawling is tough at 80.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rm43-tvc-64-oz-76505-1350321?cid=Google-Shopping&BU=TSCO&adtype=pla&campaignid=20387647901 &device=c&product_channel=local&product_id=1350321 &store_code=1938&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20382 437754

RM43 64 oz. Total Vegetation Control Weed Preventer Concentrate with Glyphosate and Imazapyr is ideal for fence rows, gravel paths, sidewalks, driveways, parking areas and around farm buildings and barns -- anywhere you want to spray once and be done for up to 1 year. The concentrated formula of glyphosate and imazapyr is effective against most noxious weeds, grasses, vines, brush and trees. The herbicide is designed for use on non-crop areas as a spot treatment for brush, vines and weeds or on bare ground for total vegetation control. Do not spray this weed killer over the root systems of desirable plants.

RM43 weed preventer treats 17,297 sq. ft.

• This weed killer concentrate kills weeds and prevents weeds for up to 1 year
• Ideal herbicide for fence rows, gravel paths, sidewalks, driveways, parking areas and around farm buildings and barns
• Glyphosate and imazapyr formula for effective use against most noxious weeds, grasses, vines, brush and trees
• Apply this weed prevention product to locations only where no vegetation is desired
• This vegetation killer concentrate can be used for total vegetation control (bare ground) or spot control of brush, vines and weeds
• Do not spray this vegetation killer concentrate over the root systems of desirable plants
  - Includes 64 oz. of herbicide
  - Use hand-operated spray equipment such as backpack sprayers, pump-up sprayers or sprinkling cans, or ATV/tractor-mounted sprayers to apply this weed killer

Apply with a 4 gal. backpack sprayer - hand pump or Ryobi - or a 15/25 12v gallon spot sprayer.

SmileWavy

Sorry Brother. I have used Roundup many years ago, but the Missus wants no chemicals on the property. Therefore it is mechanical weed control.
I bought a new pack of 0.095 line for the trimmer the other week and loaded with it this morning. What crap! The damned stuff is undersized and won't stay in the anchor holes in the bobbin. Never had that problem before.
Oh well, I got to take the rest of the morning off. Monday morning I'll get some better stuff.

Sorry to hear this, Big Les......dang. That really sucks.

Because it would make things SO MUCH easier for you.....:(

If things were supposed to be easy, horses and donkeys would have passed from this earth over a century ago.:D
Also one's body wouldn't ache after several hours of weed wacking.
I really can't complain. I hadn't had to maintain that fence until now.
When it's done, I won't have to touch it again this year.
Then I can take on the project of recomissioning the 12 foot aluminum skiff I hauled out of the river this spring.

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I reported it to the RCMP . They had it on their website for three months. No one claimed it, so now it's mine in all it's dented, leaking glory. The oarlocks and oars are still with it. You pick up stuff in your neighborhood, I pick up stuff in mine. ;)

I restored a Shakespeare Mantis reel (red one) using a combination of parts from the red one and the silver one and made a nice reel with smooth action. I also carefully removed the nylon line brake from the Shakespeare parts reel and have installed it in my Zebco 33 Classic!!! One of these days I will go fishing!!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ec9db73fc6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0967861746.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...139f40f9d8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a659938a54.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4acdb504ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...150ee806e1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9a24ffc63e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e2eca0fd47.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4f753df234.jpg

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DR makes exactly what you are looking for. Pricy new but they pop up used pretty frequently. The call it a fence trimmer.

https://www.drpower.com/Power-Equipment/Trimmer-Mowers/Tow-Behind-Trimmer-Mowers/DR-3-Point-Hitch-Trimmer-Mower/p/TT130003PN?gsa=true&ctm_id=TT130003PN&src=AW1CA86X E4263309&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22480888736&g braid=0AAAAAD_wqmSpz5DombpzvD65DASTMOhIK&gclid=Cjw KCAjwv5zEBhBwEiwAOg2YKLP8PKlwTn5GnUKx3HKzkd-OTvHnxwguM2JWVFJ0KJwuBF6eDAfV1RoCMEoQAvD_BwE

Yes, I have certainly thought of such a rig. You couldn't build one for that price. Hmmm. I have the drive unit from a bush cutter ......
Food for thought.
In the meantime, I got a line this morning which works. Husqvarna 0.105 "professional". I took the bobbin with me and tried the available lines until I got one which fit properly. When I got home I got another 300 yards done on a tank of gas. There's only about another 150 yards to go, but it is where the tractor couldn't go, so I'll be cutting a path as I go.
Follow up: I managed to get the tractor and bush cutter into the soft area from the other side for a ways so only had to cut a path through about 30 yards. I managed to get the remaining sections done before it got too hot this morning.

A set of Bose X 10 aviation headsets. Parts are available and repairing them is so much less than a new pair.

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Converting my '66 mustang from 4 to 5 speed. The stock 5 speed gearbox has a really tall 0.63 5th. Big gap between 5th and 1.0 4th. Found out that shorter 0.8 5th was available. A diagram of the gearbox showed 5th cantilevered outside the main case. Should be a simple matter to swap, right? Wrong.

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Always wanted an awning that i could roll out to extend my roof farther in sun, snow rain or wind. So last week I found one in a construction dumpster. I put it behind the beam so its nicely concealed. Normally the wind out part is the end you pull out but I mounted the winder solid and pull out the flappy end. I may just leave it and drape it over whatever im working on. But I have an idea of how i can make legs. Also pulling off stuck wheels on my mg parts car. I managaed to free one of them with this pulling method some heat and air hammering. But the other side was desperate. Even after making the hub nearly molten it wouldnt come off. It moved 1/2" and stopped. I ended up bending the hell out of it so I cut it off and had to mince the hub into 3 pieces to free it from the splines. I have a spare so I can live with that. I want to put the wires on my bugeye so i need the hubs mainly. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1753915290.JPG
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Excellent! I can appreciate a useful application of found materials.

What you see in this image is an example of CAD, good old cardboard aided design. The challenge is to create a simple pully block which can be hooked over a 1 x 1" cross member of a hay elevator while straddling the chain trough. The cardboard will serve as a template which should allow me to cut a piece of steel and bend it appropriately. The circles denote the position of the holes for the pully axle. The pully was turned from a scrap piece of 2" maple left over from a couple of other projects. Note it is still 8 sided at the circumference.

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I already have a pully hanging from a beam . In the past I have jury rigged a rope for getting the hay elevator down from its storage rack under the rafters in one part of the barn and lifting it back again a week or so later when the hay has been put in.

I think id use a sold anchor point on each side with sleeved od pipes set in cement... then build 2 telescoped leggs that can be raised or lowered to suit your needs. You'll be able to remove the legs and make sure to make caps for the holes in the ground to keep them debris free when unused.

Several fix-its today...
Composite repair on the rv3
Stringer repair on the old fg runabout.
Boot cowling, and window fitment on the 12.

The rv cowl is held on with hinges and wires this repair/mod will allow for the hinge line to be hidden under the cowling extension.

The boot cowling is also the firewall so we need to get it properly fit so the new glass doesn't look off... I've designed the layout of the firewall to have minimal holes in order to look cleaner. This comes with the added bennie of fewer holes for ingress of nasty fwf gasses.

We're stuck on the boat until the carb kit comes in so I got back on stringer repair. That's epoxy, its good because epoxy is completely waterproof. Once i fixture the hull is can scrarf the stringers fore. The original stringers were single thickness 3/4 ply wnd were not tabbed outboard of their placement.... ummm yah. The interior vertical web of shot on glass and a piece of ply were all the engine mount was bolted to, by the time I got to it the stringers were as structural as balsa and the lags holding the motor mount blocks to the vertical web of glass (and balsa) were also rotted.
The repairs in the bilge are epoxy and 1708 glass. I really like the stuff, it wets out nicely and is hell for stout. The tabbing of the front deck bulkhead will be with polyester resin. Ill also be rolling on gray gelcoat everywhere inside the hull above the bilge.