Woodworkers, circular saw blade recommendations please?

[scottmandue]

I inherited my dad's old table saw and I have a power miter saw I would like upgrade the blades on.

Thinking two blades for each (one rough one fine).

Shopping at Home Depot the have a huge selection so I am a little baffled.

Of course I will measure before buying but pretty sure the table saw is 7 1/4" and Miter 10".

This is just for hobby work so don't need pro grade stuff.

TIA

[Danimal16]

Leitz, German. For the table saw do not get a thin kerf blade, too darn flexible.

Leitz is pricey but you will not find a better blade. I have had mine for over 25 years. Rip and Cross Cut for hardwood. These can be refurbished if you chip a tooth.

[David]

Forrest.

https://www.forrestblades.com/

I've used Forrest and I've given them as gifts to other woodworkers who would not take money for work they did for me. Everyone I know who has used one never goes back to cheaper blades.

I should premise this by saying this is for cabinet making where you want minimal finish sanding not cutting 2x4's

[MikeSid]

I can't imagine changing the blades on either a miter saw or table saw very frequently. So I typically just use a high tooth count blade on both saws. Stuff that you can rough cut doesn't need to be rough so the only thing you're wasting is cuts on a more expensive blade. For me, that cost is insignificant compared to the time and effort involved in swapping out a blade on anything other than a skill saw.
just my $.02

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Danimal16

Leitz, German. For the table saw do not get a thin kerf blade, too darn flexible.

Leitz is pricey but you will not find a better blade. I have had mine for over 25 years. Rip and Cross Cut for hardwood. These can be refurbished if you chip a tooth.

This. Its what we run in our shop, but that's for industrial use so I really don't think there's a need for that kind of expense.

Forrest blades are very goo also.

[VINMAN]

Really depends on what you plan on using them for. I use mostly Freud, on all my shop saws. Thin kerfs, I really only use on my radial arm saw. Buy a good crosscut blade and a good rip blade, and you should be set.

Diablos have never failed on my field saws ( portable table saw, chop saw..). They get very heavy use.

[look 171]

Scott, how big is the table saw and what size is the motor? An under power saw with a regular kerf blade is a dangerous tool. I run thin kerf blade with bladec stabilizers do pretty well.

I suggest a typical Freud blade from HD is fine. If your table saw is 10", then I suggest getting a combo 50 tooth blade. Going thin kerf will be a little easier on your saw.

Is it a sliding mitersaw or just a typical miter saw? 60 tooth cut off bladeis what you need. If its a sliding compound saw, make sure you purchase their neg. hook blade, also 60 tooth. neg hook prevent the blade from "Climbing" hurting yourself. For a rougher and faster cut, you can also try their https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/80822562?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Saw+Blades+-+PLA_shii7M4hA___164110844766_c_S&mkwid=shii7M4hA|dc&pcrid=164110844766&rd=k&product_id=80822562&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9OXT1KK34QIVYRh9Ch0O9g8XEAQYAiAB EgJAovD_BwE that's a good blade, I think its a lot better then their Diablo, HD jobs.

For quick run to HD, those are fine, but we try and use their blade on our jobs. Its a industrial blade and the run out is very good on them unlike the Freud blades. God know how much my guys spend on those Diablo saw blades. Oops, we need a new blade, now. Instead of waiting to get a new one at the shop, during lunch, go and get one from HD.

[look 171]

Sorry, here's link for the blade we really like

[seafeye]

I hate that different wood requires different blades. But that’s just the future I guess. I like the forest blades. Although expensive if you cut salvage wood and hit a nail.
Also I’ve used this guys tools for years. A great instructor too. Many ways to skin a cat... his is just one!

https://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/sommerfeld-tools-table-saw-blades-and-accessories

[Scott Douglas]

My brother bought a Ridgid miter saw to replace his aging Mikita for building his shop at his new place.
I bought him a set of the Avanti blades for it from HD.
I've used it more than he has as cutting wood fell to me in the team effort.
Great saw and perfect blades for our use, which has entailed framing the walls and cutting joists mostly. It has handled the old, salvaged 2x6's and the new stuff too. It's been fun to use and has really helped with the build.

We mounted it on a rolling steel table he picked up somewhere and it's paid off big time.

I should add, I'm about as far from a wood worker as you can get, but I do like using a nice sharp saw.

[Jeff Higgins]

You want the special safety blade, like these guys are using:

[Bill Douglas]

Irwin make perfectly adequate saw blades, and are cheap as chips.

I assume they are available in the US

[cabmandone]

Freud is a good brand. I bought a Tomax blade for aluminum on Amazon and was EXTREMELY impressed with the quality for the price.

[look 171]

Here you go Scott. Sorry, I ahve lost my mine today

https://www.amazon.com/TENRYU-10In-40CT-Table-Sa/dp/B000FXY38M/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=tenryu+saw+blades&qid=1554412628&s=gateway&sr=8-9

[scottmandue]

Okay looks like I got some homework.
I will look at the saws and note blade size & HP.

I wish I had bought a sliding miter saw... but didn't... took a quick look at HD's website to get some prices on sliders (slippery slope).

I also was hoping I was getting my dad's old Craftsman table saw... it is a common HD table saw

[Indescikov]

You can not go wrong with Forrest. Expensive but can be re-sharpened multiple time by the original manufacturer.... located in the USA! They can also replace individual teeth quite reasonably.
Woodworker II... a good combination blade, cross cut or rip.
I cut lots of hardwoods, they last forever provided you don't cut nails.

[dad911]

I doubt the table saw is 7-1/4". I don't bother with multiple blades per saw, you use them for what they do. 'Rip' blade for the table saw, maybe a 60 tooth for the miter. Diablo at Home depot are ok, as are named brands above.

When you are nuts like me, the oldest miter saw is for cutting aluminum channel, I have a 'cheap' saw for cutting studs/framing, and a good saw for cabinetry......

[Zeke]

The only table saw I've seen that uses a 7 1/4 blade is actually an 8" TS. 7 1/4 blades are cheap and for general rough use are very good. I favor the Diablo in this instance. In fact, running a slightly smaller blade than the max capacity on a TS isn't such a bad idea. Won't work on a miter saw.

From what I know about you, Scott, you don't need a Forrest or any blade costing more than 50 bucks. DeWalt makes good blades, IDK who they get them from. And I use a Diablo with stabilizers like Jeff on my Unisaw for general cutting. I have a half dozen blades to choose from for the Unisaw and 90% of the time I'm just using a Diablo. I use a 8 incher on it too sometimes because it is more stable and the rim speed is a little less meaning slightly less feed rate to keep the IPS in the sweet spot.

Forget 2" oak and other hardwoods until you step up to the big league. Many years ago and way before disposable thin kerf blades, I was cutting a lot of oak on a Delta 1HP 10" contractors saw. The older versions of those made for really good shop saws short of owning a Poweramatic or something in that class. You go there and you might as well shoot for a min of 5HP on 240v.

Back to the Delta and oak: I had a very nice Forrest equivalent 1/8" kerf blade. A saw sharpening service would come by and take care of it. Still have that blade and honest to God that thing makes more sawdust than anything I have. You don't need to go there as an 1/8th blade takes some power to get through the work. So, it has to be in top, top condition all the time. You can buy 5 Diablo's and still be ahead of that game.

When you get to spending 8 hours a day in the shop constantly using your TS, come back and we will reconsider. Meanwhile, don't buy anything from HF or off the net that promises to be something it ain't.

[LWJ]

Diablos are a killer value. Are they perfect? No. Darn close. Are they garbage? Not at all.

I would start with a medium fine tooth table saw blade and see what you think. I suspect you will be pleased.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by scottmandue

Okay looks like I got some homework.
I will look at the saws and note blade size & HP.

I wish I had bought a sliding miter saw... but didn't... took a quick look at HD's website to get some prices on sliders (slippery slope).

I also was hoping I was getting my dad's old Craftsman table saw... it is a common HD table saw

I bet your table saw is a 10" contractor saw. It has a motor hanging out the back. If they are older, they are actually good saws for general use. I had one like that when I started. A good fence and a new belt makes the saw not the blade.

I will confuse you more. There are Triple Chip Grind, for cutting plastic and melamine and other easily chipped materials. Alternate Top Bevel blades are for crosscutting to prevent splintering. Then the combination tooth. That's the general purpose 50 tooth blade I was talking about (for 10" saw). There are specific blade for ripping but in a pinch or even on the job site, a combo blade is hard to beat.

Tell me what are you looking to do with this? I am sure I have some new 10' blades that I am not using or already sharpened in my shop somewhere. I will look for a couple of rough cutting combo blades for you if you are just looking to chop up 2x4 or general plywood. You can have them. I know I have a couple of plywood high speed steel blade I purchased long age that was only used once for this job. you are welcome to those also.