Edumucate Me On Sump Pumps

[legion]

House #1 didn't have a sump pump. I paid a plumber to dig a sump and install one.

House #2 had one. I paid a plumber to replace it and install a battery backup.

House #3 didn't have one and didn't need one.

House #4 has two sump pumps (both in the same sump--a primary mounted low and a backup mounted high) and a battery backup. I've been in the house 4 year and think it's time to change the primary pump. It doesn't seem too complicated to change one

I see individual pumps range anywhere from $50 - $250. They range from 1/3 - 1 hp. Some are plastic. Some are cast iron. Some are stainless steel.

What do I need to consider when selecting a sump pump?

[id10t]

head height, pipe diameter, etc. sensor switch or what to turn on/off when there is (in)sufficient water to require pumping.

[Icemaster]

How high (more important) and how far you need to pump the water out of the house. GPM or flow rate. Don't forget to check out the action on the check valve.

They're easy to replace, typically 10 minutes, tops, with a 5/16" or 1/4" nut driver. Loosen the connection, pop it loose, un-thread the male IPT connector frmo the old pump and reverse for install. There may be a union somewhere in-line as well that may make it easier to remove/replace.

Why do you think it's time to replace it?

[legion]

Conventional wisdom around here is that a sump pump should be replaced every 7 years. Mine are at least 4 years old and I have no idea when they were last replaced. Oh, and I have a finished basement.

Pumps have to lift the water about 8 feet.

Should I just pull the existing pump and get one with similar specs?

[Icemaster]

Originally Posted by legion

Should I just pull the existing pump and get one with similar specs?

That's what I've done unless there's a compelling reason to do something different.

Edit - The only time I changed spec was when a pump was having a hard time keeping up with the flow. They're not designed to run for long periods of time, but IIRC they're not supposed to short cycle either. I found a good table online (damned if I can remember where) that reflected the ideal range for operating life cycle, lift/head pressure etc. A google search should get you most of what you need.

Sump that was installed when we built the addition has a Zoller in it, had an issue with it burning out when a float got stuck open, Zoller replaced at no cost after it had been in for 7 years. Probably still had a good 7 left, last I checked they were around $180 on Amazon.

[nota]

bronze or cast iron american made

bronze ones are hard to find
the one I had has a motor that is eazy to replace 3 ft above the pump
so the el motor is never near the water

I use them to drain my koi pond/pool

if subject to real flooding have two just in case

[Seahawk]

I rely on two sump pumps to keep my finished basement dry...a basement in this area (and the house is very near the water) is stupid but I didn't build the joint.

They are both the highest HP the plumber recommended and have the protected float, similar to the picture below.

One has a battery back-up and I also have two spares and a constant pumping bilge-style unit at the ready.

I am so goofy about this because we flooded twice before we put the better sump drains and pumps in. Fingers crossed, no water in 20 years.

Easy to change. The old pumps become back-ups.

[cstreit]

Zohler makes good ones. We live on a high water table area so they are mandatory. I replace mine every 3 years. Take the old one out as an emergency version, put in a new one. Replace battery backup one just as often. Expensive, but a flooded basement is more so. Pretty easy job.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

this sounds like a really crappy subject.

I have often thought of the sump pump in my basement, and that if I pulled the lid off the well, I'd puke my brains out, as it deals with the downstairs toilet water.

If I ran it with clean water (say through the shower) for an extended period of time, could I reduce the s#$$y'ness of the situation?

I'd much rather deal with all the snakes from an Indiana Jones movie than a sump well full of s#$%.

[legion]

Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951

this sounds like a really crappy subject.

I have often thought of the sump pump in my basement, and that if I pulled the lid off the well, I'd puke my brains out, as it deals with the downstairs toilet water.

If I ran it with clean water (say through the shower) for an extended period of time, could I reduce the s#$$y'ness of the situation?

I'd much rather deal with all the snakes from an Indiana Jones movie than a sump well full of s#$%.

Well for me, the sump is just full or rain water. It is not a sewage pump.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951

this sounds like a really crappy subject.

I have often thought of the sump pump in my basement, and that if I pulled the lid off the well, I'd puke my brains out, as it deals with the downstairs toilet water.

If I ran it with clean water (say through the shower) for an extended period of time, could I reduce the s#$$y'ness of the situation?

I'd much rather deal with all the snakes from an Indiana Jones movie than a sump well full of s#$%.

Originally Posted by legion

Well for me, the sump is just full or rain water. It is not a sewage pump.

That just sounds wrong to me.

But if you have to service that mess, run chlorine down through the toilet a few times pausing for awhile between flushes. Then pour some Lysol down the thing before opening.

Watch out for the sewer snake!

[fxeditor]

It's kind of hard to go wrong with a Zoeller M-267!

[cabmandone]

Another vote for Zoeller. They make an excellent pump. Make sure you test the backup. My dad has a setup like yours and the backup goes bad before the one in the pit that is submersed in water. I think the bearings seize up on it. At least twice his primary failed and his secondary didn't work even though it hand been used.

[dad911]

Reduce the load as much as possibe. Make sure grade pitches away from house, gutters not clogged, leaders piped/extended away from house.....