Suburban Conundrum
 

Looking for some sage Pelican wisdom here... I own a Chevrolet Suburban, purchased new in March 2001. The truck has been well cared for w/ 150k miles. The last few years, the "Burban" has not seen a lot of use, driven only occasionally. Last week, I fired it up for a trip to the hardware store. Pressed the brake pedal and it went straight to the floor-board. Brake fluid spewed out from one of the brake line couplings. Once the drama was over, I crawled underneath and discovered rust had perforated the line - once under pressure, the line blew. Subsequent to this, I've learned this is a common problem on Suburbans, Tahoe, and Chevy pick-ups of that period. GMC's are prone as well. Repair estimates from local shops range from $2k - $4.5K. Two shops I talked to stated flat out - they don't replace brake lines of this era. On-line, replacement lines run $200.00 or so. Google research and YouTube "how to" vids show it is doable for the DIY types, but a real pain in the a**, especially w/o a lift. Half of me says "pay the man" and be done with it. The other half says "I can do this". The third half of me, says to call a wrecker and haul it off...

So, all that to ask the Pelican brain trust - does anyone have any experience dealing with this issue? Any insight on level of difficulty or useful input on how to tackle the problem would be much appreciated!

We have a 2004 Ford Excursion diesel (so the same size), and had this same problem last week. My son is a mechanic, so I went to Advanced Auto, and bought 2 quarts of brake fluid, and 2 straight sections of bendable steel brake line. These lines come pre-flared with fittings already on them in any length up to 6' long. The bill was $39, and it took him, and I (to help pump the brakes) a little over an hour to install, and bleed all 4 corners using his auto bleeder.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w87030?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiurM0Lbh4wIVh 56zCh1fJAHWEAQYAyABEgJIR_D_BwE

You stated you don't drive the burb very often so there is no rush to repair , I bring that up as a positive . You don't have to rush to get it done tomorrow . GM made so many of these vehicles and as you stated they were prone to rust issues with the lines . Because of that there must be a bunch of vendors that make/sell replacement pre-bent lines . Search the web , find a vendor you are comfortable with and buy them . Take one off at a time and replace . When done do a brake bleed and your done . I would recommend at the same time " while you're in there " to replace the soft flex lines and maybe the pads . I am making the assumption that you are a DIYer and not afraid of doing the work .

"Better get back to the country, look around and find you a home" - OMDD

I've been standin' on the rock... :)

Rusty , messy pain in the arse but I do them all the time . Apparently , I am not charging enough either .:confused:
You will probably end up replacing a few calipers, and sometimes getting them to bleed is harder than the line replacement .
You can pull it off in a days time if you stay on it .
No way I would junk the truck over brake lines. If the rest of it is nice, Id go at it .

If you bought the galvanized line get it off your truck. I did the same as you and within 4 years the line rusted through again. Mine was in the most common area on the F350 for rusted out line... behind the fuel tank. I was pulling an 8000 lb skid loader when the lines went.. yeah that didn't end well. I replaced all of my brake lines with nickel copper alloy lines.

To the OP, you might consider the line I mentioned above. My brother bought the line set for his 3500 and it was a PITA but his had the ABS valve. If yours has the ABS valve I'd recommend paying someone to do the job.

I went through this with my beloved 98 K1500. I bought a couple coils of copper-nickel line and bent and flared them myself.

There are a couple of tricky spots by the gas tank and around the engine/front suspension. otherwise I didn't think it was so bad.

Fred is correct regarding calipers and bleeding. Replace the soft lines while you are doing it.

i work for a Caddy store.
we do them all the time on Escalades and GMC/Chevy.
some model years have a full OEM line set available from GM, check your VIN with your local dealer.
and yes, those estimates are way high.....

While I agree fixing the brake lines seems a reasonable project, what is the gain of keeping it around? It's nearly 20 years old and driven minimally, likely only enough to ward off issues like this. Would you trust it for a 500 mile drive at the spur of the moment? Has it really been displaced by a newer family vehicle? You certainly shouldn't sell it in an unsafe condition, but if today its brakes, next its radiators and transmissions? Maybe its a gentle way of getting you to move on from it and free up some driveway space ;)

My daily driver is a 1986 El Camino with 365,000 miles. I would drive it anywhere. When my wife and I go anywhere, 98% of the time we go in the Elky. It was paid for over 25 years ago. We have a 2017 Macan for when we have company.

If you like the Suburban, fix the lines and keep on driving it. It is likely at the bottom of the depreciation scale and cheap it insure. Cheap transportation.

We have a 2000 Durango with 192k miles (and is still all original, Glen put a fancy fuel injected motor in his to replace the carbed one he had, cheater!) and we use it for stuff like towing, taking the dogs to the lake, and it is our daughters daily driver. We have space for it and it was paid for a long time ago. Would I drive it cross country, probably not since we have other vehicles that are better suited, but I am sure it could.

Would I spend $5k in repairs, no but a grand or two wtihout a doubt. Though here in the upper midwest it has a fender that was replaced after meeting a deer at speed and the fender is rusting while all the OEM stuff is in good shape.

To the OP, I would do the lines. To do them yourself or pay someone is up to you, I don't know how much free time or disposable income you have. I have neither but would pay to have it done if it were mine.

My neighbor is a long life GM tech and he does these all the time on the side. He gets the replacements pre-bent from GM (that now have a coating) removes the body bolts, jacks up the body and with 2 floor jacks plus some sections of 4"x4" wood - cuts and removes old lines the slips the new ones in long ways above the bumper.

Says it takes him about a day, he charges $1K labor.

Fancy??? A $1,700 GM crate engine and a home brewed throttle body FI system adapted from a 6 cylinder El Camino. I even got 30 bucks for my old 305 V8 that wore out after 300,000 miles.

See, fancy! ;)

I had all the lines replaced on my Tahoe. It came in a kit, pre-cut lines made from stainless steel. My mechanic did it, I think I paid around $1000

I did lines on a van for someone with straight line from the parts store. I have a bender and it is not that hard. I also did not try to duplicate the factory routing. I just ran the lines down the the path of least resistance. Why run them along the fuel tank so they can rust out sooner ? I was also working free so I could do it my way. :D:D Anyway you can do it faster and easier if you do not worry about every little clip and bend the factory uses.

How in the hell is the bill $4000 ?
I had a brake line replaced for $100

Gambler, PM sent. Thanks, Sam

That sounds like crazy money, I’d at least get some other estimates. Definitely sounds like a truck worth fixing, even if you just fix it and sell it.

SamC. I sent you a PM