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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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first time laying tile
starting my tile backsplash tonight I think.
never done tile. I laid the tile (mosaic) out on the counter on a short section and precut for the outlet and length and height. I hope this was not too big of a mistake, although I already have to go back and recut it. (yes keep cutting and its still too short). what happened was when I started to do the other wall I found the gap between the counter and wall was too big so I put hardiboard on the back wall and that shortened the other wall by 1/4 inch, no big deal. I have some of the other wall laid out also. one outlet box was close to the corner so I cut for that one, the other outlet was too far away to precut. I practiced on a spare sheet of sheet rock. good thing, it was suggested to use a 1/4 by 1/4 trowel, that turned out to be too big and the mud was coming up between the small tiles. so I worked my way down to a very small "V" notched trowel that seems to be good,. also got to practice how much thin set to put on.
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Couple of pointers, if you don't already know. As you found out already, when doing walls that are adjacent, it's important to make sure the surfaces are level (to the counter top) and vertical to each other where they meet in the corner. You may have to make some pre-setting adjustments to square the corner and be certain the counter top is level.
Also, plan ahead on how you are going to cut the tile to fit the lengths. Can you fit a whole tile row at each end, or do you have to make a narrower row somewhere in the field to get the pattern to fit in the length? Sounds like you are using small tiles on a netting, so the trimming for fit may not be that difficult, just be aware.
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Join Date: Apr 2002
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I don't mind the tile part...have done a few small areas for myself.
I HATE the final step though.... GRRRRout ![]() |
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HAAAA.
that's why I have always avoided doing tile......... oh I know things aren't square. the counters are level and the cabinets are level. (mostly) that is the distance from the counter to the bottom of the cabinets is within 1/8 of an inch. surprising since I put the cabinets in. its mosaic. so I don't think I need to worry about the ends being "centered" or even.. its on 12inch sheets with small rectangle tiles on it. I will take a pic when I get home. I have one end that will be exposed, the other end butts up to a cabinet so I can put molding over that end, but the end that is exposed, I am not sure how to finish it and not have exposed cuts. this is glass tile and I hate to leave a sharp cut edge exposed. I have looked for rounded edge pieces like you see in a bathroom but I have not seen any.
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I see you
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 29,919
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HA! I actually don't mind grouting. TEHO. Cutting always gets me though.
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You use Schluter as per the included link. https://www.flooranddecor.com/schluter-installation-materials/schluter-jolly-brushed-nickel-anodized-aluminum-1-2in.-pvc-8-ft.-2-1-2-in.-tile-edging-trim-100183011.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw8ZHsBRA6EiwA7hw_sc935 DEJ7zEF3Sru-0EiD46rREVCmBSXoavpy2cDjdWwSDLpYmBqExoC798QAvD_BwE
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Location: Los Angeles
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What's the substrate, plaster, drywall, backer board? Fill low spot with thinnest, screed with a straight edge. let dry and start. Those low spots should be filled unless you butter the back to compensate for the valley
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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,397
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A friend told me that with tile flooring if you don't immediatley fix a misalignment, it gets much, much worse. That's what rugs are for, he tells me.
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Quote:
It drives me nuts when tile goes around a corner and they don't match the pattern, watch for that. Where you start is important. I usually center the pattern at the range, then work out from there. As Iceman said, we use Schluter trim alot. If it's glass tile like a brick/subway tile, you can flip the cut pieces around so the smooth side is out.
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Quote:
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I used that metal edging on my back splash. It was hard to cut the 45s until I bought a blade for my miter saw.
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They actually sell corners, but they are crazy expensive.
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The corners are probably cheaper than that blade I bought.
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I usually use a (cordless)sawzall with a fine blade, or an oscillating tool, whichever is handy.
You can cut aluminum on a miter saw with any fine blade, just go slow. Also a good idea to back it up with scrap wood.
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Here is my layout for cutting for cutting outlets
It worked pretty good I precut for my last wall which was long and it worked perfectly. I get stressed when working with something like thinset and workable time before it dries. ![]()
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It went well for my first attempt.
As usual I had a good plan. To use my laser level. But forgot. I did about 1/4 Friday night and we were very happy but as I kept looking At it the lines looked a little crooked which then I remembered the laser level. Next day I set up the level. It really didn’t it not help. The lines really aren’t bad and I am not sure they could be any straighter. I thought a dark grout would help. We opted for a lighter grout
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold Last edited by T77911S; 09-23-2019 at 03:20 AM.. |
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I had a hard time with the grout at first
I had it too thick. I thinned it out and it was easier. don't know if I had it too thin. good thing my wife was there to clean up behind me because it was a mess.
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Quote:
on the other wall I had the sheet with the staggered ends. I used the pieces I cut off to match the tile from the adjoining wall
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I am considering doing the kitchen floor but I know my floor is uneven.
I remember when I have some vinyl put down years ago the installers just poured a bucket of self leveling stuff on the floor and just let it dry. I have looked for the same stuff but the stuff I see says you have to trowel out. another option is to paint my concrete floor for now. I need to get the 930 engine rebuilt and I am spending too much time on the house.
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