Servicing ZF 8HP70D 8 speed Auto Trans (Ram Ecodiesel)

[aigel]

What's the wisdom on the board regarding servicing a "service free" ZF auto trans in my 2015 Ecodiesel? I am over 60k miles of driving, practically no towing but a lot of it with a popup camper. These same transmissions are installed in a lot of vehicles worldwide, so you may have an opinion coming from another brand or car.

Upside is fresh fluid is good, right? It should help extend transmission life.

Downside is that it needs a new pan (integrated filter) $$$, I will need to pick the proper fluid (I would only install factory fill $$$) and that it is a PITA to fill to the right level, also bearing some risk of over or under-filling and causing damage / voiding warranty.

My current plan is to drive the truck at least to 100k / 7 years until the extended warranty expires. I am tracking at under 14k miles per year. Maybe go to 10 years 140k, but then sell. I think in 6 years there is more time to camp and fiddle with an older truck. I want back into an OLD diesel and a larger camper, thinking 3/4 or 1 ton truck from the late 90s.

I am inclined to drive it to 140k without servicing. Are you saying I shouldn't?

G

[908/930]

I would do it if you can, it should hit 140k no prob without a change but overall last longer with a couple of oil changes, at least I think so, the clutch plates are carbon (not sure about the 8HP70d) but getting rid of some of those particles should slow down wearing bushings out.

I have done oil fill on a 6hp19 after changing solenoids not sure if it is same procedure but need to fill and seal transmission within specified temp range, easy to do on a lift but harder on the ground.

[dewolf]

It's only the manufacturers that claim 'filled for life'. I'm sure the ZF manual says different.

The service information provided to technicians by ZF Friedrichshafen clearly states that transmission fluid changes are recommended “every 80,000 to 120,000 km or after eight years at the latest

[asphaltgambler]

^^^^correct^^^ lifetime fluid basically means the life of the first ownership typically trades it by 80k.

[peppy]

I have the ZF6HP In my 335d and I have changed mine twice. It is a pain in the ass to do, but I do it every 50k miles. I also changed the mechatronics seals and adapter gromet. That really made it shift better.

[Arizona_928]

Lifetime fluid.... I love it because dealers(service advisors ) will argue with you about changing the fluid. Why change fluid when you can up sell a new Bruce Jenner!?

[billybek]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

Why change fluid when you can up sell a new Bruce Jenner!?

No dipstick?

[aigel]

Originally Posted by billybek

No dipstick?

Haha - indeed. That's what is turning me off. I like a dipstick. I don't like to guess fluid level after the change.

I'll leave it alone for now. I have a couple three years to 100k, before then definitely not going to happen. It also looks like the aftermarket has these pans now and they are getting cheaper.

G

[Arizona_928]

Originally Posted by billybek

No dipstick?

nope, and nope

[techman1]

Overheard a discussion between a retired service tech and a friend on this subject. The service tech suggested a radical method to get the dealership to do the service. Go under the vehicle, damage the pan, carefully. Worked best on plastic pans. Then call AAA for a tow to the dealer. Yep a resulting $500 bill for a fluid change, maybe more. Not what I would opt for.

[aigel]

Last thing I would do is have the dealer work on my transmission. That's recipe for disaster. In the beginning when I had the truck it needed oil that was hard to find and I sent my wife to the dealer. They looked up the truck and promptly gave her the wrong oil. Luckily now they recomend Rotella and I can just go to Walmart.

Maybe it is the area I live in where anyone with a technical brain can do a lot better than working at a dealership? But I am scared of the dealer.

G

[Bigtoe32067]

Flush the trans through the cooler lines until clean fluid comes through and leave the filter alone.
That’s what we used to do with Ford and Jaguar sealed for life transmissions.
Tony

[VincentVega]

Pan/filter is ~$150, seems a lot cheaper than a new trans.

[Walter_Middie]

I changed the fluid in my ZF6HP28. I found a company that sold a replaceable filter and separate pan. Mine (Range Rover) required lifting the engine to get the pan out - or cutting it and using the replaceable filter and new pan - I chose the later. However, there is this way:

Tools needed:

10mm socket

8mm deep socket

10mm ratchet wrench

8mm ratchet wrench

8mm hex bit

10mm hex bit

Flat head screw driver

Instant read thermometer

10mm impact driver (OPTIONAL but makes taking off and installing plastic covers much faster)



Parts needed:

12 quarts of ATF - Shell M13754 - Pentosin ATF1 - Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF

8 quart catch container

10 ft of hose (5/8” inside diameter, ¾” outside diameter)

Funnel
Fluid pump

#10 hose clamp



Preparation:
You’ll need a make your own fill tube to fill the transmission as quickly as the transmission pumps fluid out into your catch container. The fill hole on the side of the transmission is 17mm in diameter. I chose to use a ¾” outside diameter vinyl hose (20mm) with an inside diameter of 5/8”. I made mine 4.5 feet long. The hose makes a tight interference fit with the fill hole and is inserted about 1” into the fill hole. It makes a good seal and there’s minimal fluid leak. It leaked approximately 2 ounces of fluid in the course of putting 10 quarts through it. Wrap the tube with a few layers of aluminum foil as it will be in contact with the exhaust pipes. I didn’t think it needed the aluminum foil because the engine was cold and it would only be on for less than a minute. I wrapped it to be safe and I’m glad I did. The exhaust pipe gets hot very fast! It would have melted my fill tube if it wasn’t wrapped. 

You’ll also need a catch container that can hold at least 8 quarts. I found one at Walmart for $6. Look for one that is slim and tall as you’ll be using it to measure the amount of fluid coming out. I also purchased a quart sized measuring cup at Walmart for $1. I marked my container for 7 quarts using water and a Sharpie. The reason the catch container is marked is so I know in real-time how much fluid is coming out and if my fill is keeping up. If my fill was not keeping up, I would need to shut off the engine to allow my fill could catch up. I was able to fill 6 quarts while 7 came out so I didn’t need to shut off the engine. I was a little behind but not by much.

The same hose that I used to make my fill tube fit perfectly on the transmission cooler port. I used about 5 ft and connected it to the transmission cooler with a #10 hose clamp. 

Procedure: 


Step 1: Level the vehicle with ramps or jack stands. I use ramps and the slope of my driveway to get it leveled. I also put jack stands underneath for added safety. Let it sit overnight. 



Step 2: Remove plastic cover underneath the engine. There are (6) 10mm screws.



Step 3: Remove front trim piece that covers the front tow hook. On the bottom of the trim piece, you’ll see (4) flat head screws. Give each one a quarter turn. Pull the piece forward to remove.



Step 4: Remove plastic cover under radiator. There are (20) 10mm screws in total. Remove (4) 10mm screws that face towards the front of the vehicle. You’ll need the 10mm ratchet wrench for this. You’ll have to search for the screws as they are wedged between two plastic pieces. Then remove (16) 10mm screws that face towards the ground.



Step 5: Remove heat shield. There are (3) 10mm screws that hold it to the bracket.



Step 6: Remove heat shield bracket. There are (4) 8mm screws that hold the bracket to the transmission. One of the screws is blocked by the transmission shift cable. You’ll need to move the cable out of the way by removing (2) 8mm screws. Use the 8mm deep socket on these screws and make sure to replace these two screws once you get the bracket screw out. Use the 8mm ratcheting wrench to remove the (3) remaining screws.



Step 7: Break open the transmission fill plug with 8mm hex bit. Do not remove yet, we are just making sure we can get it off before we drain the fluid. It’s on the passenger side of the transmission. Towards the rear, about 1” above the pan.



Step 8: Remove transmission drain plug with 10mm hex bit. As you turn counter-clockwise to loosen, you’ll hear a clicking noise that you’ve never heard before and you’ll think something is wrong. Don’t worry and just keep turning counter-clock wise. As the screw comes out, the clicking noise and resistance associated with it will diminish. I drained 5.25 quarts by letting it sit overnight for 15 hours.



Step 9: Pull transmission return line from the transmission cooler. For my 2010, it was the driver side hose. It’s a quick disconnect fitting. Push the hose in, push the plastic in, pull back. Let the fluid drain out of the cooler and hose. About a quarter quart came out of mine. The cooler port is 14mm diameter with a raised rib that is 18mm (both measured with a caliper). I used a 5/8” inner diameter hose with an outside diameter of ¾” with a #10 hose clamp. Run this hose to a catch container.



Step 10: Connect your pre-made fill tube to the transmission fill hole. Have a helper pour 3 quarts of ATF into the transmission. This brings the fluid level up the fill plug. This is as much as you can put in without starting the engine. You should be underneath the car watching the fill tube and making sure it’s not leaking.



Step 11: You have about 1 minute to complete this step. We’ll be turning on the engine and filling the transmission while the transmission pumps out the oil fluid into our catch container. Open 7 quarts of ATF and have it ready. Have your helper start pouring transmission fluid while you start the engine. After the engine is started, you’ll want to quickly check to make sure your fill tube is not leaking and that all of the fluid being pour is going into the transmission. You’re helper should be pouring transmission fluid as quickly as he can. Since we drained 5.25 quarts out already, there’s should only be about 5 quarts left in the torque converter. When your catch container reaches 6 quarts, shut off the engine. 



Step 12: Reconnect the transmission hose. Remove your fill tube.



Step 13: Now we need to get the transmission fluid to the correct level. The correct level is when the transmission fluid trickles out of the fill hole between 104-122 degrees Fahrenheit. Estimate how much fluid came out and plan on putting that much in minus ½ quart after you start the engine. The minus ½ quart is so fluid doesn’t trickle out before 104 degrees. Turn on your engine. Shift to “P” and “R” a few time while pausing for 3 seconds in each gear. Pump fluid in until you are ½ short of what came out. It took my transmission 20 minutes to reach 104 degrees. Insert your instant read thermometer into the fill hole. You’ll want to tip in down so it’s submerged in the transmission fluid to get the most accurate reading. If you don’t tip it down, it’s taking the air temp inside the transmission and I found it to be a few degrees lower. So having the transmission fluid close to the correct level serves two purposes. First if you have too much, it will start trickling out before 104 degrees. Second, it lets you take more accurate readings with the thermometer. When the transmission fluid temperature reaches 104, pump in your ATF until it trickles out and install the fill plug. You’re done!
There’s a few ways to check the temperature of the transmission. Land Rover hooks the vehicle up to their computer that reads the transmission temperature. Many people use an IR heat gun and take the pan temperature. I decided to use a temperature probe as I felt this was the most accurate means that I had available. I tested the IR heat gun method and found it inaccurate. I had my thermometer inside and while I was waiting, I checked the pan with an IR heat gun. I found the pan heats up much faster than the internal fluid. I think it absorbs a lot of heat from the transmission housing. The housing temperature got to the high 100’s very quickly. However, when the fluid temperature got to 104 on my thermometer, the pan was right around the same temperature. 



Step 14: Take it for a test drive and install the bracket, heat shield and plastic covers.