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UnRegistered User
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Quote:
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Bill K. "I started out with nothin and I still got most of it left...." 83 911 SC Guards Red (now gone) And I sold a bunch of parts I hadn't installed yet. |
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You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
Posts: 39,831
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Per housing inspector's instruction, I've used the 'approved' 3M foam and caulk around pipe-to-wall penetrations.
Both of those are colored red. That was the only fire-rated brand available in box stores here. Regardless, it doesn't belong there.
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Meanwhile other things are still happening. |
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Cars & Coffee Killer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: State of Failure
Posts: 32,246
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A few things...
I called the city code enforcement office and they told me that the neutral bar in residential construction is grounded to the ground bar. At the time my house was built it was considered okay to intermix ground and neutral. Ground and neutral must be separated in all subpanels. I called a few electricians and unless my power is out or something is sparking, they won't be able to come out for a few months. (Being "essential" they are very busy with a variety of projects as they are one of the few things we are allowed to spend money on.) That said, even though I don't have the wiring into the main panel finalized, I can still wire things out from the subpanel. It just won't be active for awhile. To recap, this is the motor I want to run a 30-amp circuit to: 1) What gauge wire should I run from the 30 amp breaker to the compressor? 2) I should be running two hots from the 30 amp breaker, correct? (Using a double-throw breaker.) 3) What socket and pigtail should I use for the compressor? The one mentioned earlier in the thread is for a 20 amp circuit. I'd think I'd want one with four prongs, correct?
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Some Porsches long ago...then a wankle... 5 liters of VVT fury now -Chris "There is freedom in risk, just as there is oppression in security." Last edited by legion; 05-03-2020 at 05:15 PM.. |
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