More Dodge Ram Fun

[Brando]

It's been a while since my last post about it - and now I'm starting to feel like AZ Porsche Kid...

At 202k in July I did a complete coolant system flush, new thermostat (160º), and coolant temperature sender. Totally fixed my overheating issues. Used the truck to tow a 2800# camper trailer up from Orange County to Redwoods National Park. Truck did great, no overheating, no issues at all.

Fast forward a few months, truck hasn't been driven that much. Putting around town on Sundays (I only really use it to haul or drive my daughter around), I see the temp creep above the 1/3rd mark on rare occasion. Ok... Pull the radiator cap to check fluid level and coolant is low. "Where the hell is my coolant going?"

I drive it out to AZ and back. Top it off, it's fine for another month (last weekend). Temps slowly creep up again, pull the cap, down ½ gallon. I start it up and lots of white smoke. I order a block tester kit and... Fluid goes from dark blue to bright yellow. Crap.

After checking around and seeing what the average turn-around time is for getting heads cleaned, rebuilt... I decided to buy replacement heads and do a complete top-end gasket job. This will net the shortest down-time when it comes to swapping everything over. Wife wasn't too excited about the cost, but $980 for all the parts + shipping wasn't a bad deal. Plus I'll get $350 back on the core charge. Now I just need a sitter for a couple days when the weather clears.

Meanwhile, I keep telling my wife "Every used vehicle is a $10,000 vehicle..." If this thing lasts another 200k miles with a fresh top-end I'll be happy.

[asphaltgambler]

Hopefully the whomever rebuilds the head - you're getting a good one. Also, I fair amount of both gas and diesel experience. A 160 thermostat is too cold. You should be running a 180 - running a cooler unit actually does not give the coolant enough time in the radiator to exchange the heat. Further a thermostat's temp rating is when it's fully open. It starts to open at a lower temp.

You are losing thermal efficiency. While doing the top end, install the proper rating T-stat.

[berettafan]

if you can get a Ram to last 400k miles you won't just be happy, you'll be famous.

[fastfredracing]

While you have the heads off, make sure to loosen the top bell housing bolts, so that is is easier to remove the trans when it fails next month .

[gsxrken]

I’ve had my 2011 5.7 Hemi crew cab since new and had bought the lifetime warranty for about $2k at that time. Over the years I’ve had a few issues addressed under it for just the $100 deductible.
This year, at 70k mikes, that warranty has paid for itself. I’m sure in the next 10 or so years that I intend to keep it I’ll be WAY ahead.

[gogriz91]

Hemi or otherwise, I've found routine maintenance makes a lot of things last a long time.

[Brando]

Thanks guys. Maybe I should have phrased it differently: "If this truck lasts another 15 years, I'll be happy."

In my opinion, the issues I am fighting are related to a lack of routine maintenance.

[Brando]

Time for an update... It's been a long journey but it's back together. Tomorrow I light it off and hopefully I don't find another issue. Pictures + video to come.

[masraum]

Fingers crossed! Good Luck!

[mattdavis11]

They sure don't make them like they used to. The 4x4 Ram Charger in my signature, now sold, had only a few issues. Ignition module ($30), alternator ($50) in 24 years of ownership. I never even had to do a brake job in the 100K miles I put on it. I had to let it go 2 weeks ago. The buyer was a happy camper.

[unclebilly]

I reached out to the mods to see if they would start a off topic sub forum for Chrysler vehicle issues... I guess they are concerned with data and bandwidth limitations...

Anyway, best of luck with your Ram. My 03 2500 diesel cost me $30,000 in 2.5 years of ownership and sat parked for 1 of those 2.5 years... it was clean and well maintained but made out of broken...

[Arizona_928]

Yup ^^ wish I used that advice way back when. But I wanted a new truck, and have the $$ to spend.

I just dropped a 1,300$ south bend clutch in mine with under 50,000 miles. So don't feel too bad. It took two days with help from the mechanics at the auto hobby shop taking my sweet ass time.

There's a reason why the Rams are called shipping crates. Bc the only good thing in them is the diesel engines.

[Brando]

That's a whole lot of truck you posted there afterburn. Pretty sure I can't park those in my condo complex, nor fit a car-seat in the back when towing the tent-trailer for family trips.

I'll tell ya what, a 2500 series diesel is sounding pretty nice about now. Maybe if this truck poops the bed that will be my next step. I am a fan of the RAM series with Cummins diesels.

[Arizona_928]

Oh boy coming to the dark side....
After one looks up used prices, that 4x4 dt466 is a hell of a deal.

My ram is a stupid cost per mile. I'm prolly gonna go with a jap mini truck over the summer. If you're not towing heavy, no point running a diesel. It's also a double edge sword. Some equipment I use is 16,000 lbs, plus trailer I'm prolly at or above weight.


That said I get 10+ mpg towing 10k lbs. Empty I've been averaging high 17 mpg. Deleted and no smoke tune.

[Brando]

I lit the fuse today - started it up and ran it after the new heads were installed. It still blew a bunch of white smoke until it warmed up - likely burning off what was still in the exhaust system. After about 15 miles of varying loads and driving conditions it runs better than before. When getting home from AZ last November, it was idling really rough and would chug clouds of smoke out the back even when warm. I'll start it up again tomorrow morning after a full cool-down and see how it behaves.

I still have a "P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input" MIL code, it's idling around 800-820 so I think the coolant temp sensor may be broken (connector just spun round and round). The engine may think it's still in warm-up mode, but the dash gauge was reading about 180-185º.



What a journey. I swear if this thing was still not working right after this - I was already looking at newer trucks with full-size front and rear cabs.

[Arizona_928]

might be two coolant sensors. One for the ECM, and other for the dash.
Pop in a new one from rock auto and see how it behaves. How did the head gaskets look? Obvious failure? I don't dare say cracked block...

[Brando]

For sure what I am going to do. It's raining today (plus I'm sick again) so I may take care of it after work tomorrow when the truck cools down.

Other than smelling rich and idling high - it's running great!!! Now I can move on to steering & suspension... Needs a new steering rack since the driver's side seal is leaking, all the bushings/ball joints are original and I want softer shocks. Plus I need to smog it this month... Oy.

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

might be two coolant sensors. One for the ECM, and other for the dash.
Pop in a new one from rock auto and see how it behaves. How did the head gaskets look? Obvious failure? I don't dare say cracked block...

[RWebb]

this thread could be a Ford commercial...

[Arizona_928]

Originally Posted by RWebb

this thread could be a Ford commercial...

LOL

Local kid with a 6.0 ford with 120,000 miles just dropped 5 grand on a hpop and injectors.

I hit all the known defects on my ram. Emissions-removed. Weak clutch from factory. Added the extra cat filter.
Across the board you're gonna have these issues. That's why I ordered my truck with no extra electronics to fail.....

[speeder]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

LOL

You dont know your big three well- all of them come with congenital birth defects
The ford V8 diesel is an absolute POS.
The heads have to be removed and all sorts of weird issues addressed beside just the studs.
The Duramax and injectors and aluminum heads......
BTDT

As i have said-get a Mid-range

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

The 6.0 - all need bulletproofing they call it .
For starters pull the cab off!

How to Bulletproof a Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel

You are entitled to your opinion but I disagree. Of course, I've only owned half a dozen Ford V-8 diesels and rebuilt a couple...make that three.

All of the ones I've rebuilt were 7.3 engines. I had a 2005 6.0 F-250 that was hands-down the best of all of them, wish I still had it. The 6.0 engines had issues but they got better in '05-'07, I guess they addressed some of the problems. The key thing w those is that they must be absolutely, 100% bone stock and maintained religiously, (which I do w all of my diesels).

I'm not trying to blame owners for all of the problems w various diesels but something about diesel PU trucks attracts the dumbest of the dumb and a LOT of problems are self-inflicted. Guys who are willing to sacrifice all durability in order to squeeze a few more HP out of an already perfectly strong engine, usually w a "tune" and a K&N type air filter that lets dirt and mosquitos into the combustion chamber. Bigger injectors, more boost, more fuel, more heat...wtf could possibly go wrong??

Stock 6.0 engines are not the strongest but they are ok if kept stock. I don't even agree that they need stronger head studs in that case, the whole "bullet-proofing" BS is just another marketing appeal for the less than educated owners. If you don't believe me, just go on any PU diesel forum. Holy schit.

The 6.4 Power Stroke was the real fail engine that killed the partnership between International and Ford, they have a major failure rate bone stock that is through the roof. Forum member OWP has one that is OK, though, apparently.