Sorry about that Bob. Here's a link that probably explains this better than I ever can:

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transformer/current-transformer.html

And then - there was light! Good old Maxwell. (EE from GaTech!)

do you drive a ramblin' wreck?

Thank you!

I'm heading to the freight once I get my shoes on to get that clampy thing and then I'm going to practice what you are telling me.

Check minimum measurable current range when looking at meters. Ideally find something that can measure mA with the clamp.

Be careful when measuring current draw (amps) if you forget about the meter and switch on something bigger (headlamps, fuel pump, fans) you may fry the meter!

I'm a Helluva an engineer!

I have seen the results of an inexperienced apprentices and inexpensive meters!

Better quality meters are fully fused. You might be able to blow the fuse but typically you won't blow up the meter.

I know it is overkill for most here, but I would seriously look for used Fluke meters online or at a pawn shop.

I have still have my old Fluke 23 that I use as my home meter. Great, tough little meter for troubleshooting. Water resistant, not proof!

Found a little video with this meter. Note, both the milliamp and 10 amp are fully fused.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_vXiKd1Zb2E" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Porsche owners all have deep pockets, right? Just order this and you're set.

https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/dmm/combo-kits/ac-dc-deluxe-automotive-digital-multimeter-combo-kit-1000v-885akit.htm

You need to get two. One for in the car, and one for in the garage. Maybe three, just in case your BIL/neighbor wants to borrow one.

That is why I always recommend the clamp-on meters. Can't fry it.

Many people don't understand how to connect an ammeter properly.

(Older apprentice here. And will be until I know it all. Which will be never.
I learn from my mistakes, and must be genius by now because I've made them twice at least.)

While you are at the store buy the tube fuses as well.

To the meter AFAIK:
1) The volt setting resists everything outside trying to enter.
It looks at voltage PRESSURE from afar.
There are tall walls of high impedance/resistance/ohms built into that circuit. It is almost always safe to use it on 12V.

2). The amp setting lets actual current flow through the meter.
The fuse is the weak link, as intended.
The circuitry can handle only a small amount. The setting is important. Start with the highest and work down.

As mentioned above, the inductive clamp-on probe may not be the most accurate but is a safe tool to use.

3). The ohm setting actually creates a small current within the meter, to see how well it flows and returns to the meter.
It measures the resistance.
It cannot ever be used with live circuits because it's circuits are very sensitive and shyt will instantly pop inside.
All external power sources must be disconnected first.

I bought it. Still in plastic but I like the fact that it should be much faster for a draw test on the main battery cables.

Multimeter should be here soon.
So, I can take a fuse out and gap that with the multimeter to see what the amp draw is through that circuit, right?

Yes

Is that showing a 4.3 milliamp draw?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588742653.jpg