![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 4,703
|
Advice on New Roof - e.g. Metal vs Asphalf Shingle
My shake roof is about 25 years old and the shakes are crumbling and the ridge pieces are coming off. Having the fumigation people stomping around up there last week during a tenting probably didn't help. I think I'm ready for a new roof. Any info. on materials (including gutters, gutter guard, ridge vent, etc.) will be appreciated. Also what should be on a bid or on a contract?
My roof is about 32 squares and there is a section with a very low slope - I'm going up there to check today and measure all the slopes. I can attach a diagram if that helps anyone. Thanks. -Henry
__________________
Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,700
|
Get estimates from several places, but you already knew that.....I would recommend trying a Lowes and a Home Depot contractor since the company stands behind them. We used a HD contractor and they did a great job. I also called 4 or 5 other companies but no one answered their phone, not even their cell?
|
||
![]() |
|
Brew Master
|
You could look into the metal shingle that looks like an asphalt shingle (Decra) nice stuff and maintains a traditional shingle appearance. On standing seam metal I believe there might still be some credits for going with the lighter colors with the reflective paint. Gutter guard is nice but it can cause problems in cold climates because the snow freezes over the opening and causes ice icicles. I like ridge vent over other vents since it's at the highest point where heat naturally ends up being. To me you can never get too much ventilation in a roof.
|
||
![]() |
|
Detached Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: southern California
Posts: 26,964
|
Neighbor has a metal roof that looks just like terra cotta tile in our HOA, it weights 10% of that of the terra cotta. Don't know where Saratoga, CA is but in shake and rattle and roll country that is something to consider.
__________________
Hugh |
||
![]() |
|
Non Compos Mentis
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Off the grid- Almost
Posts: 10,598
|
Quote:
A few years back we had a new furnace/heat pump installed. The helper made some comment thinking they were doing the job through Sears. No way! I called direct! Helper says they give Sears and Home Depot the same price they give me, and Sears adds 100%. They double it. And people sign the contract because they trust Sears. We also replaced our shake roof. Considered standing-seam metal, but the roof of my house is pretty cut up, full hip style with lots of hips and valleys, which means there is terrible waste trimming triangles off the metal sheets. Ends up being prohibitively expensive. We went with a 50-year architectural asphalt laminate. Couldn't be happier. Looks great, and we have lots of kindling, as we still have a pile of cedar shakes. Gutter guards cause rot. they may keep your gutters cleaner, but the crud that stays out of the gutter backs up on top and holds moisture against the wood part of the eaves under the roofing material. An inspector friend says he has yet to see a house with gutter guards that has not suffered damage. Disclaimer- This is the soggy Seattle area. YMMV. |
||
![]() |
|
You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
Posts: 39,910
|
The most vulnerable area of almost every roof is the last 3 feet to the gutters.
If ever there was any need for serious epoxy spray-on bed liner, top and bottom, wrapping around to the next drip point... Last edited by john70t; 11-30-2016 at 05:54 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,274
|
Cedar shakes burn like they have been soaked in gas.
You may want to think twice about going with shake again. Especially if you live in a high fire area. We replaced our roof with asphalt shingles. They work okay however, I think they are heavier. If I could it all over I would go with the metal shake looking shingles. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Also in rainy seattle.
We got our roof replaced with metal about 15 years ago. We got lots of quotes and went with the company we felt best about (one of the few that emphasized the complete lack of ventilation and to expect extra rot repair.) Tons of things went wrong for them during the install, including one storm that blew their tarps away leaking water into some rooms. They took care of everything including drywall replace and weeks of painting. Also when there were unexpected problems they found other excellent contractors to do the work (replacing a skylight that they broke.) So gotta say that a big company worked really well for us. Since the install the roof has been perfect, absolutely trouble free. From watching them work I think the key to metal roof is the guys that do the bending, everything needs to be sensibly overlapped so water just flows downhill. We lucked out. Knowing what I know now I'd try to arrange to go see a different roof done by the same crew. Done right its art. One thing about metal, you absolutely cannot walk on it when its even a little wet. Pretty amazingly slick. As part of our quote we had the roofers leave their D-Rings installed along the crest of the roof so now I have something to clip into when I go out to clean the roof and gutters. I was worried that metal would be loud in the rain. It is louder than the asphalt we had before but we find the sound really relaxing. |
||
![]() |
|
You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
Posts: 39,910
|
Quote:
-It holds up to deck foot traffic. -It blocks heat penetration. -It holds winter sunshine heat longer. So why isn't there a clear, water-based, matte finish, ceramic coating for all rooftops everywhere? |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: OK
Posts: 12,730
|
__________________
76' 911s Signature Edition |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Seattle
Posts: 8,943
|
I have a low pitch roof in Seattle and went with standing seam metal. It wasn't the least expensive option but its been trouble free. I had traditional gutters added at the time instead of a really old trough style gutter.
One thing we had to consider after was that a lot more water was shed from the roof than before. So there was some additional drainage to manage.
__________________
1982 911 Targa, 3.0L ROW with Webers |
||
![]() |
|
Non Compos Mentis
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Off the grid- Almost
Posts: 10,598
|
|||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 4,703
|
Thanks for the comments. So far I've had two roof companies come to get info. for a bid. So far no bids received, I'll call to bug them. I learned a lot talking with the roof bidders. Here are a few decisions/tips so far:
- I'll probably go with composite - there is a lifetime version that is very thick - the roof should start with two rows of starter before the first real row of shingles - if the pitch is less than 2/12 there are some special treatments that should be applied (I have this situation in one spot) - should have continuous ridge venting on areas with vaulted ceiling (this is a current issue) - they both suggested steel seamless gutters with "baked-on" paint - not sure what that is. There is material that has an AL/galv. layer under the paint - this sounds like what I want - save money don't replace the downspouts - one guy recommended gutterglove for a system to keep leaves out of the gutters - one guy said my roof can last another 3-5 years with new ridges - the quality of my original shakes were very good - standing seam metal might be 2x compared to composite (we'll see what the quotes are) - I wanted some brackets installed for future solar - no problem just need to locate where they go - both would install all new flashing including the fireplace - add "eyebrow" roof vents along the ridges not over vaulted ceiling
__________________
Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
||
![]() |
|
Brew Master
|
Don't call to bug them. You shouldn't have to beg to spend your money with them. If they don't care enough to give you a timely quote why would you think they'll care enough to do a proper job on your roof. Just my .02
|
||
![]() |
|
You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
Posts: 39,910
|
^what cabmando said.
A roof is a long-term decision. A huge expense. Reject the high pressure sales-persons who want a signature now. Last edited by john70t; 12-07-2016 at 04:19 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 4,703
|
Well - I got one estimate $26,000 for about 31-32 squares that's about $800 per square.
Included: gutters and downspouts ($1,365) replace two existing curb mounted sky lights ( don't know how much was allowed for these) composite Owens Corning Woodcrest Owens Corning Woodmore is an additional $900 The company is out of town (40 miles away) so maybe they are not very interested. The quote looked hastily put together on some sort of software that creates a PandaDoc that got emailed to me.
__________________
Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,910
|
Some very good advice posted. Being in the construction business I have dealt with most roofing materials. They all have their positives and negatives. So do your research on the various materials. You need to educate yourself before speaking to a contractor. A contractor may not necessarily steer you toward what is best for you but what is best (profitable) for them. Go to a few roofing supply houses and speak to a sales person about the various roofing options. While at the supply house ask for a few roofing contractor recommendations.
The one thing I will caution you on is a metal roof. A new metal roof is not the same as an old metal roof. A "real" metal roof was a heavy gauge galvanized steel that with stood impact, wind and deterioration. Many old metal roofs would last 50, 60 years and more. A new metal roof is a thin gauge aluminum with a sprayed on color coat. It is highly susceptible to impact damage. It dents an punctures very easily. So if you have trees around that could drop a branch and puncture the metal or you are subject to hail use caution. In addition the coating will fail from UV deterioration in a few years and expose the aluminum to UV and the elements. To me a new metal roof is more decorative and disposable. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
|
My house is a 1800 square foot , tri level.
A fairly simple roof. A couple years back, the old roofs (2 coats ,plus a bit of ply wood) were stripped off, and new " 30 year" composite applied.....that new , arceticitual stuff is nice. $ 7K. Your price estimate is tough to swallow.
__________________
JPIII Early Boxster |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Dog-faced pony soldier
|
How long do you plan to be in the house?
Metal is almost always a better way to go but will have a longer payback period. |
||
![]() |
|
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cutler bay
Posts: 15,141
|
I built a cat 5 proof roof something not needed in cal myself but very needed in s fla
contractors will not even bid the way I wanted they do minimum code ONLY they claim 120 mph wind loads but evidence shows less for current code I BUILT to a 200mph goal with 3 layers of plywood base screwed not nailed plus glue then plastic peel and stick over plastic base topped by 2 layers of metal sheets lapped at the peaks with extra long screws into the beams not just the deck and bent down on the edge screwed to the facia of 2x6s so not flapping lastly added 1/2" SS CABLE 22K w LOAD to the foundation slab just to be sure over done maybe but cat 5 proof |
||
![]() |
|