You are right and it would be a better coating, regardless if the primer works alone. It’s all about just sealing the metal, of course. I’ll hit it w some flat black after the 48 hour cure is done for the primer. Funny recoat directions on that one, it’s either within 1 hour or after 48.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601152590.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601152590.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601152590.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601152590.jpg

You want a proper 2K epoxy primer so you never have to worry about rust again.

SprayMax 3680033, 2K Epoxy Rust-Cure Primer

The red button you see in the pic on amazon punctures a seal inside the can and activates the catalyst.

Depends on how much you need. More likely than not there is rust under paint that you can't see but that rabbit hole is really deep. A couple of cans may be enough for spot clean up or you can always go duplicolor or eastwood and a Harbor Freight gun if you need to shoot a lot.

+1.

Now that I see that you've got that much area to paint, I'll second the recommendation for a 2 part paint, as you've got enough area to burn up the whole can.

Gloss black might last longer than flat black.

I'd probably hit that area with some phosphoric acid before painting.

Yeah, that box needs much better surface prep and then proper primer. Ideally you would media blast it with aluminum oxide, clean and prime. But JRs suggesion of a phosphoric etch would also work. Just make sure the surface has been converted before priming.

If you aren't thrilled with duplicolor or eastwood products, you could go to a paint shop and get the PPG fleet line primer. It will be very high quality and not too expensive.

As the photo in post 181 shows, I’ve already coated it w red oxide. Not sure what you guys mean by a large area, it’s a battery tray. I’m grateful for the expert advice but in this case, I know that at least 999 out of 1000 owners would never pull all the batteries out and even touch it, I’m just a little anal about surface rust. In the climate I live in, I could have left it alone and it would probably never rust any more and it definitely will not now.

Professional paint guns and epoxy primers are not going to happen for the battery tray.

That epoxy primer is interesting but as I stated above, I’ve had great luck w Rustoleum rusty metal primer, (red oxide). It’s meant to be sprayed right over rust but I always grind the rust off first as much as possible. Rattle can some Rustoleum regular paint over it and it’s good to go.

This is NOT the technique I would use on an old Porsche tub or something really important but for surface rust under vehicles, it’s great.

That just because of the time it takes for the solvents or carriers for the paints solids to disperse.. recoat within the 1-48 window and you may see coating issues, blisters, delamination..

I’m enjoying this thread.

Thanks, Denis.

I'm glad you like it, thanks for taking interest. I'll try to keep it fresh w photos...we like photos around here. :)

Me too.

Thanks for the info on that rattle can epoxy primer, Shaun. I ordered a can of it.

I use the Rustoleum rusty metal primer Denis mentions and it does work well on certain applications. I almost always start with Ospho as part of my prep. Steel wool and Scotch Brite pads also help with prep.

Keep the pics coming, Denis! :p