Originally Posted by javadog (Post 11037435)

That's weird. What's the explanation for that?

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 11037329)

Here are a couple of my tire date codes to show you what to look for... A 2007 tire and a 2012 tire.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600894362.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600894362.jpg

Originally Posted by javadog (Post 11037457)

Focus, man, focus.

Originally Posted by Zeke (Post 11037333)

When it come to tires you have to consider that is your only connection to the road. Not being facetious. I realize the GM motorcoach was ahead of it's time in many ways and the fact that it uses air bags is great. But, they were engineered in the 70's and we know a lot more now. Someone with a shock absorber (damper, if you prefer) like Paragon Products can dial in the shock rate based on the existing parameters.

So you're nearly perfect WRT the ride and handling. However, to complete the package you wouldn't want to use poor tire design. In the world of street use pick ups Michelin is recognized as the best riding tire you can buy. It's a truck tire designed for trucks know as an LT.

The state of the art Michelins may be hard to come by in a 16.5" wheel. If the year of the GMMC was one of the years they shipped with non-radial tire rims, they must ube replaced. A great upgrade would be the Alcoa AL rim in a more standard size.

Not any tire will work given that the tire pressures used on a GMMC will be around 60 psi front and a little less in the rear, but they must be adjusted on each trip for the overall load at each axle. So 4 people with their siht and a full tank of fuel requires upping the pressures. People who constantly tow or overload the GMMC should buy E rated tires and use 80 lbs. That is not going to give you the limo ride.

The first thing to do is get the #'s off the rims and determine if they are the 2 year only radial tire style rims. Otherwise any tire dealer should refuse to mount radials and you're stuck with bias-ply steel belted tires.

Originally Posted by javadog (Post 11037483)

I see some flash around the number area, which isn't unusual and I think I can read the number 3411 but the photo is too blurry to see much of anything.

Tires are toast, so it doesn't matter.

Originally Posted by tevake (Post 11037718)

I gave you my suggestion on the tires a while ago. First the front tires, then the inner tries on the rear axel, then the outer rear tires last. The inner rear tires are pretty hard to check out while on the vehicle.

So how is the engine working in the coach and transmission and the other running gear, are they doing well? You could drain each to see how the oils are doing.

I had to take the drive shafts out to get them all gone thru. That was a major improvement in the comfort underway. The center strut Bering was done for. And the u joints were Pretty bad to.
Getting that system sorted out was so good in the feel on the road.

I think the rear hubs are not easy to find. So check your bearings on the wheels in the rear axel.
They did rear drum brakes till the mid 80s I think. Are the ones on your coach still original?

You sure do seem to be going thru it pretty well, well done!

Cheers Richard

Originally Posted by javadog (Post 11041203)

Red oxide primer isn’t going to be enough to prevent further rust, primer is almost useless in that regard. You need to lay down some decent paint on top of it.

Originally Posted by speeder (Post 11037879)

Since I've got some smart guys on this thread, I have a question about chassis grease.