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Too big to fail
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Looking for metal chop-saw recommendations
I've had a Ridgid CM1450 abrasive metal chop saw for about 13 years, and it finally bit the dust. It was great - I used the hell out of it, but it's time for a replacement. I was using it on everything from 1x1/8" to 4" x .250 tubing and even 2" thick steel rods.
I've been trying to do some research online, but I don't really trust random reviews that seem to be exercises in keyword spamming with convenient affiliate links. I'm also willing to consider a "cold" saw too - I've watched a couple of youtube videos and was impressed. So I'm looking for suggestions.
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Bland
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The cold cut saw is great until somebody tries to cut hardened steel. Instantly dull.
I bought one at work and it was great and the blade would last until someone would periodically try to cut something hardened. I have a hitachi chop saw at home and I hate it. It works but is a POS.
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06 Cayenne Turbo S and 11 Cayenne S 77 911S Wide Body GT2 WCMA race car 86 930 Slantnose - featured in Mar-Apr 2016 Classic Porsche Sold: 76 930, 90 C4 Targa, 87 944, 06 Cayenne Turbo, 73 911 ChumpCar endurance racer - featured in May-June & July-Aug 2016 Classic Porsche Last edited by unclebilly; 05-08-2020 at 07:57 AM.. |
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Too big to fail
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would last until someone would periodically try to cut something hardened.
Define "hardened" - tool steel? Titanium? Adamantium?
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 21,037
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Do you prefer the chop saw? I like metal band saws, both the portaband and I have a Jet horizontal.
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The truth is that while those on the left - particularly the far left - claim to be tolerant and welcoming of diversity, in reality many are quite intolerant of anyone not embracing their radical views. - Charlie Kirk |
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Too big to fail
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I don't have a preference - I've never actually used a horizontal band saw, but I don't have a lot of space to work with, so the chop saw might work better for me.
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 522
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I have one of these and it has worked great for steel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOLV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also purchased an Aluminum blade for it, which works great as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YF1ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Too big to fail
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How about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Evolution-S380CPS-Carbide-Tipped-Accurate-Powerful/dp/B083Y5W9YS/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=evolution+dry+saw&qid=1588879469&sr=8-8 Quote:
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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I guess if you need to cut a lot of metal get a good saw
but I just use a common skill 7 1/4 hand saw with an abrasive blade or a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off blade with good results |
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Registered
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I have the Evolution cold saw, and it is awesome.
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Too big to fail
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Thanks for the help - I ordered the Evolution S380
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Bland
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So the blades are good up to about 40RC. This covers all mild steel and carbon steel to about 145,000 ksi yield strength.
An abrasive chop saw will cut hardened steel whereas a cold cut saw will not. We made 1000s of cut with ours cutting coiled tubing and structural steel and it always was awesome until some dingus decided to cut a nitrided or carburizing piece in it. If you need to cut hardened studs, you still need an abrasive saw.
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Too big to fail
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Quote:
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Bland
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Sorry I didn’t see you earlier reply sooner. The cold cut saw is awesome and you will love it as long as you don’t try to cut anything hard with it. In our R&D shop, lots of people had access to it for cutting lots of different stuff hence the issues we had.
These also cut super clean so there isn’t a big mess to deal with after making a few cuts. A blade lasts a long time too (basically until somebody does something dumb). They are also very fast for cutting hollow sections.
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06 Cayenne Turbo S and 11 Cayenne S 77 911S Wide Body GT2 WCMA race car 86 930 Slantnose - featured in Mar-Apr 2016 Classic Porsche Sold: 76 930, 90 C4 Targa, 87 944, 06 Cayenne Turbo, 73 911 ChumpCar endurance racer - featured in May-June & July-Aug 2016 Classic Porsche |
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Too big to fail
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Ok, I bought the Evolution S380, I've done a couple of projects with it, and here are my observations. First, plain cuts with a fresh blade are like a hot knife through butter - it's amazing! However, cutting small stock and angles are not quite as sweet. I was trying to cut some 8mmx1mm tubing and it didn't seem to like it at all - the edges came out ragged. Same for trying to cut a 60° angle - it didn't work well and buggered up the blade. Once your blade is worn or damaged, all bets are off. In this regard, I think the abrasive saw is better - it tolerates clumsy cuts and a wider variety of materials, and the blade is never actually dull. I think for a home hobbyist, the abrasive saw is a better choice - it's more forgiving and versatile. For a production shop in skilled hands, the cold saw is better. The other issue with the cold saw is while it doesn't throw sparks, it does throw hot, sharp chips, which are just as bad or worse.
Here's an example of one of the first and one of the last cuts with this saw. I've already had to replace the blade, and these suckers are not cheap. I bought an off-brand blade that seems to work well, and it was still $90 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Brew Master
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Aren't those blades rated for certain thickness of steel? I thought for some reason when I was looking at them that they were. I've generally used abrasive wheels and light pressure on the saw for my cuts. I have a specialty blade for aluminum and one for thin metal (up to 1/8")
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Nick Last edited by cabmandone; 06-21-2020 at 05:25 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2015
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I think you would find a small horizontal band saw is very effective and really doesnt take up as much space as you would think. Especially if you are in the ranks of setting up a dedicated space with side tables with something like a cold saw. Im a furniture maker and space is always at a premium and the band saw can be rolled any where out of the way. Another benefit of a saw is set the cut turn it on walk away and stay busy on something else like the next step.
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Join Date: Jul 2001
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Interesting the teeth are chipped not worn. Is it possible the material is harder than the blade's rating?
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The truth is that while those on the left - particularly the far left - claim to be tolerant and welcoming of diversity, in reality many are quite intolerant of anyone not embracing their radical views. - Charlie Kirk |
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Too big to fail
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Everything was mild steel. Things started going south when I was cutting the small stock - I suspect the problem arose because the material was smaller than the blade interval.
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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That makes sense.
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The truth is that while those on the left - particularly the far left - claim to be tolerant and welcoming of diversity, in reality many are quite intolerant of anyone not embracing their radical views. - Charlie Kirk |
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