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It's amazing stuff - I use it in manufacturing production equipment. I have also used it repair the riveted part on my ash tray that goes in my 944.
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Added to cart. Thanks Shaun!
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try devcon that stuff is amazing
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Another epoxy that I HIGHLY recommend is Loctite's Hysol E-40HT. High temp, oil and gas resistant, truly structural. I called Loctite after buying a new steering rack for my 01 Tundra. The hydraulic threaded female on the rack was stripped out. Inside the box was a letter from the remanufacturer telling you to be careful, the threads easily strip and they won't take it back if they are. Of course someone did strip them and then returned it to Autozone and they sold it to me. Instead of trying to return it, I called Loctite and that's what they recommended. That was 4 years ago and rack is doing just fine. I use it on 928 intake cracks (cast magnesium) and never had a call back. Have used it in other situations, it's a true structural epoxy.
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All epoxies can be removed by heat. I don't agree with JWW's statement that it stays somewhat flexible but the term is subjective.
Yes, there are other products that mimic JB and most, if not all contain metal shavings as part of the 2-part composite. Original JB takes at LEAST overnight to get hard enough to machine. You can subject the part to low heat after the initial cure period, 2-3 hours at room temp. Locktite brought out a fast metal epoxy repair and then JB brought out theirs, in that order IIRC. Then there's soldering on cast metal parts such as a carburetor body with zinc. An oversold product in that class is Muggy Weld. I buy my stuff at the LWS and it's not cheap. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/elEAA...e21/s-l640.jpg Look at the 5th item in the list. It's tricky to use but you can actually do it with a good propane bottle torch with a pencil flame. MAPP gas is better but they don't sell that siht anymore. There are substitutes that burn slightly hotter than propane, like 130º hotter and that doesn't make much difference, so stick with propane. It's much cheaper. Here's a video about the stuff. Nevermind that he destroyed the seal of the Welch plug at the end of the bore. I guess he now can solder that up. |
Zeke, I've had success with Blue Demon aluminium brazing rods https://www.globalweldingsupplies.co.nz/product-page.php?sku=WDABD32 the trick was to get the aluminum very hot, but well short of melting, with a Map-pro torch then lightly dragging the alloy rod over it.
I did lots of testing on scrap aluminum. |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592862355.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592862355.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592862843.jpg |
Marine-Tex is kind of a wonder epoxy similar to JB Weld.
Not sure of its availability in inland areas, but... I've used it (and JB) for some crafty fixes, that saved me time and money.. Marine-Tex |
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I worked with small pneumatic peens, repairing aluminum castings, when I was in college. Great little tools. |
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Marine Tex = JB Weld X 10..........Both are good.....
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I cure JB weld in the oven at low heat overnight.
It cures rock hard. Without heat, it cures kinda flexy and softer. JB Weld. Don't leave home without it. |
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Traditional JB Weld had 5020 psi of tensile strength. Marine-Tex, 4,000 psi. There may be other factors that are better one vs the other but they are in the same ball park. |
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There are several spots on the case where an original bonding/sealing agent was placed. These are the places where a factory dowel pin or plug has been inserted into the case. JB Weld is an excellent heavy-duty epoxy that can be used to replace the dabs of factory epoxy that help seal some of these areas of the case and chain housings. https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/wizards/Parts_Wizard.cgi?command=step3&wizard_root=911_eng ine_rebuild |
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