Converting 220v Range Outlet to 110v

[HarryD]

Hi,

I am replacing my aged electric range in the kitchen with a new gas range.

The electric range has a dedicated 40 amp 220v circuit. Looking inside the electrical panel, I see 2 black wires (one from each pole of the dual 40 amp breaker) and a bare neutral (ground?).

The new range will require a 15 amp 110v service.

How do I wire this up to create a 15 amp outlet? It will remain a dedicated service.

Thanks in advance!

[Jolly Amaranto]

I would first pull the 40 amp breakers and replace them with one 15 amp. Ring out the two black wires and tape the ends of just one with white tape at both ends as far as you can. This will be your neutral. The bare wire is ground. Wire a new outlet as normal and attach the remaining black wire to the 15 amp breaker and the "new" white wire to the ground buss at the circuit pannel.

[Brian 162]

The big box stores sell an adapter. One side plugs into the existing 220 outlet. The other side is 110 volts. That would be the easiest.
I would install a 15 amp breaker though.

[ben parrish]

See Jolly’s post above..that’s how. Now, the challenge will be getting the 8awg wire into a 20 or 15 amp receptacle. You will need to use 12 gauge pigtails wired to the #8 with wire nuts and then attach the 12 to the outlet.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by ben parrish

See Jolly’s post above..that’s how. Now, the challenge will be getting the 8awg wire into a 20 or 15 amp receptacle. You will need to use 12 gauge pigtails wired to the #8 with wire nuts and then attach the 12 to the outlet.

Thinking I'll crimp a 8 gauge ring terminal on the wire and out it under the screw on the receptacle.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Brian 162

The big box stores sell an adapter. One side plugs into the existing 220 outlet. The other side is 110 volts. That would be the easiest.
I would install a 15 amp breaker though.

Looked for one but could not find one for the three wire 40 amp service. If you know where to find one, please show me.

[Cajundaddy]

Do you have to use that circuit or could you simply plug the range into another outlet and leave the 220 outlet alone? When we remodeled my kitchen we had plenty of 110v outlets on that wall so the 220 circuit stayed put.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Cajundaddy

Do you have to use that circuit or could you simply plug the range into another outlet and leave the 220 outlet alone? When we remodeled my kitchen we had plenty of 110v outlets on that wall so the 220 circuit stayed put.

While not absolutely required, most of my outlets are in use and fishing a wire through the studs will not be a fun task. I think the hidden outlet for the appliance is the way to go.

[Cajundaddy]

If so, the above modification advice is good. I would use a 20A 110v breaker and 20A outlet because the #8 wire size is massive overkill. You will probably need to use terminal ends or wire nuts to downsize to #12 wire at the outlet. There are 220v> 110v step down transformers but I can't recommend it for this application.

[dad911]

You are allowed by code to oversize the wire, so the #8 is ok if you can work with it.

You will need a ground, neutral (white) and Power (black) If you re-purpose one of the hot legs as a neutral, you really should wrap it with white tape in both boxes to identify it in the future.

You can use a 15 amp breaker per original post.

Now having said that, If you are running a gas line, why not just run a 14/2 for the power? Is there basement below?

[abisel]

• remove the existing 40 amp dual circuit breaker.
• disconnect the wires from the circuit breaker.
• disconnect the wires from the old 220v receptacle.
• take one of the black wires and wrap it with white tape on both ends. You will need to ring it out to know which black wire is which. Connect this "new" white wire to the "neutral" buss in the power panel where other white wires are connected.
• replace the existing 220v receptacle at the range with a 15 amp 110v receptacle
• connect the existing black wire to the bronze screw of the new 15 amp 110v receptacle
• connect the "new" white taped wire to the chrome screw of the new 15 amp 110v receptacle.
• connect the existing bare wire to the green screw on the new 15 amp 110v receptacle.
• insert a new 15 amp 110v circuit breaker (switch in OFF position) into one of the slots in the power panel.
• connect the existing black wire to the new 15 amp 110v circuit breaker.
• turn on the "new" circuit breaker.
• No sparks? The breaker didn't trip? So far so good.
• With a volt meter, measure the voltage at the "new" 110v receptacle. The side of the receptacle with the bronze screw measured to the chrome screw should be 110v.
• Measure from the bronze screw to the ground green screw should also be 110v.
• Measure from the chrome screw to the ground green screw should be zero volts.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by abisel

• remove the existing 40 amp dual circuit breaker.
• disconnect the wires from the circuit breaker.
• disconnect the wires from the old 220v receptacle.
• take one of the black wires and wrap it with white tape on both ends. You will need to ring it out to know which black wire is which. Connect this "new" white wire to the "neutral" buss in the power panel where other white wires are connected.
• replace the existing 220v receptacle at the range with a 15 amp 110v receptacle
• connect the existing black wire to the bronze screw of the new 15 amp 110v receptacle
• connect the "new" white taped wire to the chrome screw of the new 15 amp 110v receptacle.
• connect the existing bare wire to the green screw on the new 15 amp 110v receptacle.
• insert a new 15 amp 110v circuit breaker (switch in OFF position) into one of the slots in the power panel.
• connect the existing black wire to the new 15 amp 110v circuit breaker.
• turn on the "new" circuit breaker.
• No sparks? The breaker didn't trip? So far so good.
• With a volt meter, measure the voltage at the "new" 110v receptacle. The side of the receptacle with the bronze screw measured to the chrome screw should be 110v.
• Measure from the bronze screw to the ground green screw should also be 110v.
• Measure from the chrome screw to the ground green screw should be zero volts.

Thanks. This is what I am planning.

One question the #8 wires are huge. How do I pig tail the receptacle leads to #12's so I can attach them? Wire nuts or is there some type of premade adapter?

[abisel]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Thanks. This is what I am planning.

One question the #8 wires are huge. How do I pig tail the receptacle leads to #12's so I can attach them? Wire nuts or is there some type of premade adapter?

Wire nuts that accept one #12 and one #8. And a short length (4 inches or so) of #12 wire. And use the appropriate colored wire too.

Also, depending on what 220 volt receptacle was used, you may have to install a "new" receptacle box into the wall for the wires and 110v receptacle. Get one that is big enough to hold all the wires, pigtails, wire nuts. Get the "retrofit" style box with ears that fold open when the screws are tightened.

BUT, a previous question was if there is a basement below the kitchen and does the existing 220v wiring run in the floor joist to the power panel? If so, you could run a new length of 12/2+ground wiring from the power panel to the range. And then just leave the existing 220v wiring or pull it out all together.

OR, if the existing 220v wiring is under the floor, you could make the conversion to 110v wiring under the floor within a junction box. Then only 110v wiring up to the range.

Show us pictures of the existing set-up behind the range. And any pictures of wiring under the kitchen floor.

And remember, for the new gas line to the range, be sure to put a shut-off valve at both ends. And whatever code is required for the type of pipe.

[Zeke]

There is no 110 or 220 v in the US. If you want to pretend to be a sparky, at least talk like one.

[abisel]

ok ok, jeeze! 110/120 and 220/240. Happy?

Back in the day of my schooling I was taught 110/220 so I guess I am showing my age. 115/230 also comes to mind.

[Jolly Amaranto]

Originally Posted by Zeke

There is no 110 or 220 v in the US. If you want to pretend to be a sparky, at least talk like one.

Brown out? I usually have 120 and 240 at my box.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by abisel

ok ok, jeeze! 110/120 and 220/240. Happy?

Back in the day of my schooling I was taught 110/220 so I guess I am showing my age. 115/230 also comes to mind.

Yeah, but Europe is 220v single phase. 115/230 is OK. My meter shows 118. something here. But the stuff at the supply is labeled as 120v or 240v.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by abisel

Wire nuts that accept one #12 and one #8. And a short length (4 inches or so) of #12 wire. And use the appropriate colored wire too.

Also, depending on what 220 volt receptacle was used, you may have to install a "new" receptacle box into the wall for the wires and 110v receptacle. Get one that is big enough to hold all the wires, pigtails, wire nuts. Get the "retrofit" style box with ears that fold open when the screws are tightened.

BUT, a previous question was if there is a basement below the kitchen and does the existing 220v wiring run in the floor joist to the power panel? If so, you could run a new length of 12/2+ground wiring from the power panel to the range. And then just leave the existing 220v wiring or pull it out all together.

OR, if the existing 220v wiring is under the floor, you could make the conversion to 110v wiring under the floor within a junction box. Then only 110v wiring up to the range.

Show us pictures of the existing set-up behind the range. And any pictures of wiring under the kitchen floor.

And remember, for the new gas line to the range, be sure to put a shut-off valve at both ends. And whatever code is required for the type of pipe.

If needed, I will put an extension ring on my electrical box behind the range. I will have a few inches to make sure the range will fit.

Given the location of my Breaker box (in Garage with no direct access to the crawl space) and the low overhead in my crawl space under the stove, I am opting reuse the existing wire run.

Sorry no pictures.

The gas line will be installed by a pro. again, I have no desire to go into my crawl space to run the pipe and hangars.

[Jolly Amaranto]

Nothing to worry about down there.

[Brian 162]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Looked for one but could not find one for the three wire 40 amp service. If you know where to find one, please show me.

I thought Home Depot sold them.
BTW I when I switched my electric stove to a gas one I ran a separate 14/2 wire from the fuse box to a new outlet. I used an unused breaker in the fuse box. I left the old 220 outlet box just in case.